Last post on Dec 09, 2013 at 5:32 AM
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Ford Escape, SUV
#99 of 140 Re: 2003 Ford Escape XLT - battery light & other strangeness [escapemom]
Jan 13, 2012 (7:13 am)
I had the same exact problem and it is simple to fix. What's happening is that the battery has a bad ground. The cable can be tight to the battery but can be loose some where else. Sometimes there is a smaller wire coming off the battery and is grounded to the fender well or some where thats a ground point. Get a test light or mutli meter and check your ground points.
Tips: If you have a flashing engine light that means a mis fire.
The light can sometimes come on and off. If you have an engine code and are un sure of it, let me know and I can tell you what exactly it is. Having being a Master ASE Certified Mechanic I will help you. Just email me at
#100 of 140 Multiple Issues with 2003 Escape
Jan 17, 2012 (1:58 pm)
I have had sooo many problems as of late.
It started with the Rear Parking indicator turning off when I shifted into reverse last year. Then the ABS light would flash and stay on for days at a time. (It's since stopped) Then the brake warning light came on, and still does randomly. (It's a solid light, doesn't change when I put the EB on.) Recently it has failed to keep a charge. (I was told it was a bad cell) I replaced the battery with one from my boyfriends Ford Mustang that was working perfectly. It worked for a day in my Escape, then the battery light came on. I had AutoZone run a test - they said it was stuck in "Open Phase." (I assumed alternator) I didn't want to drive it, so we moved the battery BACK into the Mustang At startup, the check engine light came on in his vehicle, and it stalled randomly. We had to buy a new battery for that. I fear purchasing a brand new battery if the escape is just going to make it useless. I've also read several forums with people having similar issues and replaced their alternators to no avail.
There are all kinds of crazy small things have been happening since my battery problems started - all intermittent. Rough idles, dead battery, sputtering, cd player died, uneven shifting between gears. Other times it drives like a new car. It is driving me CRAZY.
#101 of 140 2003 Escape Instrument Panel Gauges
Jan 23, 2012 (7:07 pm)
Recent problem with my daughter's Escape. I personnally experienced this last night. All gauges go to full scale right and then back to the correct position (the problem has only happened while in motion). No other issues with any other items/components. The battery was replaced less than a year ago and I haven't had an opportunity to troubleshoot but was hoping to save hours of probing with a multimeter to see if there is a ground (or some other) problem. If you have found a solution to this problem please advise. If I discover my answer, I will post it for the rest of you (obviously, no guarantee that it will be the same solution though)...
#102 of 140 Yep, mine does that too.
Jan 24, 2012 (5:59 pm)
My base model Escape does that gauge full tilt right then to zero then back to normal AND it not only does it to me but to my HUBBY TOO. Now he cannot tell me I am full of crap when I tell him about this problem. He has experienced it. When my car does this it is typically between 40 and 45 mph and typically soon after I have turned the car on and the motor is bogged down (low rpms like when starting up hill before the transmission kicks down a gear and the rpms go up). The car will jerk a little as if the motor is missing. Then boom, all needles peg out high, all go to zero, and then finally back to normal and the car is fine after that. I think I just need a new set of plugs and a good tune-up. I also just bought a Ford Focus so that pain in the ass Escape won't be in my driveway much longer. I put a new alternator on the car and a new battery so I don't think there is an electrical problem.
#104 of 140 Re: 2003 Ford Escape stalling and other electrical issues [corey03escape]
Jan 26, 2012 (8:44 pm)
I can't speak to all your problems but the cruise control problem I have dealt with and personally fixed. If you know how to use a wrench and a zip tie you can fix this problem yourself. Go to this link - http://www.fordforum.com/forum/ford-escape-19/2003-ford-escape-cruise-control-no- t-working-6800/.
I used it to fix mine. I can't believe that car companies get away with this kind crap and still pull a profit off of suckers like us. Thankfully for us there are forums like this to help us all... Best of luck.
#105 of 140 Re: 2003 Escape Instrument Panel Gauges [escape_solved]
Jan 26, 2012 (9:30 pm)
I'm not having any problems with "missing" but the vehicle has over 150K so I don't think your solution is a bad idea but I'm not so keen on spending $100 and probably 4 hrs of my life (I've never done this and the link doesn't address things step by step, when you don't know where they're located and what they look like) on a one time sucess (no insult intended). Other solutions have been posted so what makes you so sure this will correct my situation (why couldn't it be the bad ground mentioned in other posts)? Any additional information will be appreciated (how long ago did you do this, any complications, etc.?). Working on a 1988 LeBaron steering column this weekend so no big rush since this hasn't created a safety problem (yet). Thanks. If I proceed with your current recommendation I will post photos of the process as I hope to improve on what is available to date...
#106 of 140 Ford Escaoe Rear defrist
Feb 26, 2012 (4:32 pm)
Hello; Anyone have a problem with the defrost grid peeling off. Ford refuses to fix under warranty. Grid paint is literally peeling and falling off. Ford digital imaging people just say its not covered. Frustrated in Hartland; earl 16
#107 of 140 battery light comes on after driving.
Mar 01, 2012 (12:24 pm)
the 2005 escape alternator 3pin conector's center pin may be backiing out of position causing the battery light to come on after 5 seconds or more of running.
the fix is to replace the conector.
#108 of 140 Re: Multiple Issues with 2003 Escape [prettyinink]
Mar 01, 2012 (9:32 pm)
Sounds like the main ground from the battery to the motor (two part test) you can check it by testing the voltage at the battery with the vehicle running and the test leads on the positive and negative terminals respectively, then turn the vehicle off using a set of jumper cables, the black lead only place one end on the negative terminal and the other end on a clean metal surface on the motor start the vehicle and read the voltage again. If the main ground has a poor connection supplementing it with the jumper cable should allow the alternator to supply the correct voltage to the battery and all of the accesories you may even see a couple sparks if you do the connecting while the vehicle is running (not recommended) If the first voltage was less than the second repair/replace the ground wire or its connections