Last post on Dec 09, 2013 at 5:32 AM
You are in the Ford Escape
What is this discussion about?
Ford Escape, SUV
#132 of 140 Re: 2003 Ford Escape battery drain electrical issues-Fixed! [karina409]
Jun 07, 2013 (12:49 am)
My fiances 2004 Ford Escape is having the same issues described, battery is draining and will not allow car to start randomly, often her car will not start after getting gas for 20-30 minutes, ca stereo will not shut off unless done manually, air bag light goes on and off and now the car alarm does not work. I am not getting any error codes or check engine lights on either.
I have had all spark plugs replaced recently as well.
After a lot of research and testing here is what I have found.
1.I had battery, starter and alternator tested for free at O'Reilly's Auto Parts with no issues found. Auto Zone does testing free too.
2. I had my mechanic tell me to check the under dash fuse box by the drivers left foot alongside the door as my fuses looked corroded. I took fuse box off and apart tonight, took hour and a half total, and found severe corrosion to the fuses and especially to the internal circuit board. I am in the process of replacing the fuse box to see if this solves the issue. I found one used on ebay. I think this issue may be related to the negative battery cable issue described as well but not sure?
3. I was told the car alarm is known to short and wires can corrode and cross causing electrical issues and battery to drain as well. I am in the process of disconnecting the alarm to see if it makes a difference.
I will let you know the results but will not be taking it to Ford for repairs or buying another Ford.
Jun 28, 2013 (4:32 pm)
I recently took my 2003 Ford Escape (5 speed stick) in to have the AC repaired. I had taken it in last year about the same time and was told I needed a new compressor. (I chose not to have it fixed because I just didn't have the money.) This time however (at the same place) they told me my compressor was fine, but that it wasn't getting any electrical charge. They said they cleaned out my fuse box because it was corroded. Today, my daughter was driving the car and it wouldn't start. She said she had been using the AC, so she stopped and the car was running, but that she still needed to get a jump in order to get it to start. I haven't been using the AC myself, because after a year of not having it, I actually prefer the fresh air and the windows down.
My question is, Should I take it back to the shop that did the AC, should I take it to the dealer, or should I take it to a shop that specializes in electrical? I've been reading through the posts on the 2003 Ford Escape and it seems to have more than one electrical issue... although I didn't find a post (yet) where the electrical is tied to the AC.
#134 of 140 Re: '03 Escape Electrical(?) Issues [davicho]
Aug 31, 2013 (4:18 pm)
hello i,m in the same boat as a few others with the ford escape problem .... my fix was changed out the ignition switch .fixed it right away ... think as too how many different things are attivated by just turning on the key ...65.00 fix talked too my electrical guru and as for the miss in the engine when did you change the plugs last .taking off the plenim is the most of the work too get to the back 3 plugs .they lean out around 2500.3.000 rpm .ok too al for now
#135 of 140 Re: 2004 Ford escape/battery drain [jelco145]
Sep 29, 2013 (8:24 am)
My 2001 Escape XLS has the same problem. The battery is completely dead after a week. We used to drive the car everyday and we did not have these problems. We now use this car as a backup and the battery keeps draining. The dealership replaced the battery, and I am still having the same problems.
I will be installing a knife switch to cutoff the battery when the car is in storage. I do not want to invest a ot of time or money into this.
I tried a solar panel, but evidently the rate of discharge is much higher than the few amps that the solar panel can produce.
#136 of 140 wrench light and eratic idle
Sep 30, 2013 (4:26 am)
I've had my 2008 Escape for 4yrs. The dashboard is usually lit up like a x-mas tree with the abs/emergency break/traction light (which don't seem to cause a problem). The newest addition on the dash is the orange wrench light which is accompanied with an erratic/high idle which is affecting the performance. It starts up no problem and idles at 2000/mph, goes into gear (drive) no problem however when I accelerate it idles between 3500-4000/mph before kicking into gear which is obviously too high. It will eventually kick into gear itself at 4000/mph or if I ease off the gas. Also, I attempted to bring it up to 100km/h and it was continuously idling at 3000/mph. My husband topped up the transmission fluid which was slightly low and no change. I have been neglectful in having the oil changed however we keep it topped up - would that even be a factor with this situation?
#137 of 140 Re: 2004 Ford escape/battery drain [greybird1]
Sep 30, 2013 (9:42 am)
My key off current drain was found to be the GEM module, which is located under the center console. This went on for a number of years until I took it to a service manager who had the same problem and was familiar with it and actually understood what I was talking about. The GEM module controls a number of items. What is a Generic Electronic Module?
The Generic Electronic Module (GEM) is found on Ford vehicles and is basically a Body Control Computer. It controls many of the following functions on most Ford vehicles:
Warning chimes and warning lamps
One-touch down driver's side window
Daytime Running Lamps
Heated rear window
Windshield washers and wipers
Remote keyless entry
Illuminated entry with remote keyless entry
Four-wheel drive . About 40 minutes After you turn off the key and interior lights it's supposed to go in to standby mode which reduces the key off current to approx. 25 ma. Mine was staying at about 90 ma thereby draining my battery in approx. 10 days. When they install a new one or a used one it must be programmed so it has to be done at the ford dealer. After years of replacing batteries, alternator and keeping the battery hooked up to a charger mine finally is working properly. Hope this helps as not all symptoms are the same fix. Two Independent garages and the first Ford dealer couldn't figure it out. I was at the point of trading it.
#138 of 140 2004 Ford Escape Battery Drain
Nov 02, 2013 (6:22 pm)
Drove it last Tuesday. Everything fine. Thursday night horrible beeping noise, it was the radar detector flashing "Low Voltage". And dome light was flashing. Pulled the radar detector. Charged the battery the next day. Started that night. Wouldn't start the next day. Found that the radio was coming on after the car was shut off. It's the original Ford radio. Has a mind of its own. That is what was draining the battery. Have now pulled the fuse for the radio. But now, the cruise control sometimes works, sometimes doesn't. The dash lights where the radio is now flash on and off when the right turn signal is on. And the remote locks the doors, but will not arm the alarm. This happened in TWO DAYS. I don't know what's going on. Can you help me?
#139 of 140 Battery Drain Problem
Dec 08, 2013 (8:40 pm)
Alright my mom bought me a 2001 Ford Escape XLT in May of 2012. Car worked perfectly fine till she had borrowed it one day in July 2012. Still don't really understand what happened to it but it had to be towed and was taken to this shady repair shop. Ended up putting $6000 into fixing it their over the course of July 2012 till april 2013 (On and off) had the engine, transmission rebuilt, new alternator, spark plugs, battery, air compressor, belt. Pretty much everything in this car has been fixed, rebuilt or brand new. Now its to the point Its getting really dangerous (since its winter in Michigan) My car will drive perfectly fine for weeks or months at a time and it dies. It started in April of this year (2013) This is what happens ritually, everytime. First the radio whether I have it on or off the clock is still on, the radio will turn on and off then stay off for good, then at some point the ac/heat goes, the lights in my car will dim as well, then the ABS light will turn on and off, then off for good, next; the Passenger Airbag light will come on. Then I usually have anywhere from 1-5 minutes till it dies. The car will start reving and going slower (don't really have too much control of speed at this point), then I lose all control of speed, and then my power steering will go right before it dies. -Occaisonally though all of the gears will be boxed as if I have it in every gear, but that doesn't happen often. my car will die on average 3-4 times a month if im lucky. but I did go 2 1/2 months without a problem till October it started up again. This past week it has died on me 3 times. Very rarely will it start up after this happens. Though a few times ive waited about 30 mintues to an hour and it has started up fine. 95% of the time though it takes about 30 minutes of having my dad charge it up with his car to get it to start and allow me to get home. sooo.. if anyone has any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated !!
Dec 09, 2013 (5:32 am)
My clock was staying on when my car was off. After two weeks on the internet researching, I found that it might be the accessory relay. It is in the fuse box to the right of the fuses, right in the middle. I have a 2004 Ford Escape. I used part Standard V13081 RY612. It cost about $15. It worked.