Last post on Dec 09, 2013 at 5:32 AM
You are in the Ford Escape
What is this discussion about?
Ford Escape, SUV
#129 of 140 Re: 2003 Ford Escape XLT - battery light & other strangeness [clearh2o]
May 16, 2013 (2:07 pm)
I have a 06 escape that was giving me fits. The batt light kept comming on and discharging my battery, then the car would not even try to start. I changed 3 alternators , new belt, new computer still not help. These NEW cars are not friendly to people that like to work on their vehicles, howeber I think I may have a fix for this at least.
Ford has a history of the neg side to cable from the battery losing continunity with either def wiring or oxidation causing no connections to the engine for starting and charging.
possible fix: under the battery the neg side of cable is tied to the frame and thus supposed to be to the engine also. Buy a battery cable from big box store, connect one end to the same lug and the other end under the engine to the bottom bolt of the starter. This will ground the starter and the alternator since they both are attached to the block. Hope this helps
#130 of 140 Re: ford escape alarm reset [darcasto]
May 20, 2013 (7:42 pm)
i've got the same problem and i cna't figure it out. i'm about to freak out! did you ever fix it?
#131 of 140 Re: Ford Escape Electrical? Problems [mars2618]
Jun 06, 2013 (6:19 pm)
Ford has a history of grounding problems, follow the neg side of batt to side terminal of vehicle. Go and purchase a two ended battery cable from auto box stores, one that has open terminals on each end, abour $10. place one side on the vehicle terminal and the other to the bolt holding the starter on the engine. This should give you start all the time and the alternator a good ground to power the vehicle . Hope this helps
#132 of 140 Re: 2003 Ford Escape battery drain electrical issues-Fixed! [karina409]
Jun 07, 2013 (12:49 am)
My fiances 2004 Ford Escape is having the same issues described, battery is draining and will not allow car to start randomly, often her car will not start after getting gas for 20-30 minutes, ca stereo will not shut off unless done manually, air bag light goes on and off and now the car alarm does not work. I am not getting any error codes or check engine lights on either.
I have had all spark plugs replaced recently as well.
After a lot of research and testing here is what I have found.
1.I had battery, starter and alternator tested for free at O'Reilly's Auto Parts with no issues found. Auto Zone does testing free too.
2. I had my mechanic tell me to check the under dash fuse box by the drivers left foot alongside the door as my fuses looked corroded. I took fuse box off and apart tonight, took hour and a half total, and found severe corrosion to the fuses and especially to the internal circuit board. I am in the process of replacing the fuse box to see if this solves the issue. I found one used on ebay. I think this issue may be related to the negative battery cable issue described as well but not sure?
3. I was told the car alarm is known to short and wires can corrode and cross causing electrical issues and battery to drain as well. I am in the process of disconnecting the alarm to see if it makes a difference.
I will let you know the results but will not be taking it to Ford for repairs or buying another Ford.
Jun 28, 2013 (4:32 pm)
I recently took my 2003 Ford Escape (5 speed stick) in to have the AC repaired. I had taken it in last year about the same time and was told I needed a new compressor. (I chose not to have it fixed because I just didn't have the money.) This time however (at the same place) they told me my compressor was fine, but that it wasn't getting any electrical charge. They said they cleaned out my fuse box because it was corroded. Today, my daughter was driving the car and it wouldn't start. She said she had been using the AC, so she stopped and the car was running, but that she still needed to get a jump in order to get it to start. I haven't been using the AC myself, because after a year of not having it, I actually prefer the fresh air and the windows down.
My question is, Should I take it back to the shop that did the AC, should I take it to the dealer, or should I take it to a shop that specializes in electrical? I've been reading through the posts on the 2003 Ford Escape and it seems to have more than one electrical issue... although I didn't find a post (yet) where the electrical is tied to the AC.
#134 of 140 Re: '03 Escape Electrical(?) Issues [davicho]
Aug 31, 2013 (4:18 pm)
hello i,m in the same boat as a few others with the ford escape problem .... my fix was changed out the ignition switch .fixed it right away ... think as too how many different things are attivated by just turning on the key ...65.00 fix talked too my electrical guru and as for the miss in the engine when did you change the plugs last .taking off the plenim is the most of the work too get to the back 3 plugs .they lean out around 2500.3.000 rpm .ok too al for now
#135 of 140 Re: 2004 Ford escape/battery drain [jelco145]
Sep 29, 2013 (8:24 am)
My 2001 Escape XLS has the same problem. The battery is completely dead after a week. We used to drive the car everyday and we did not have these problems. We now use this car as a backup and the battery keeps draining. The dealership replaced the battery, and I am still having the same problems.
I will be installing a knife switch to cutoff the battery when the car is in storage. I do not want to invest a ot of time or money into this.
I tried a solar panel, but evidently the rate of discharge is much higher than the few amps that the solar panel can produce.
#136 of 140 wrench light and eratic idle
Sep 30, 2013 (4:26 am)
I've had my 2008 Escape for 4yrs. The dashboard is usually lit up like a x-mas tree with the abs/emergency break/traction light (which don't seem to cause a problem). The newest addition on the dash is the orange wrench light which is accompanied with an erratic/high idle which is affecting the performance. It starts up no problem and idles at 2000/mph, goes into gear (drive) no problem however when I accelerate it idles between 3500-4000/mph before kicking into gear which is obviously too high. It will eventually kick into gear itself at 4000/mph or if I ease off the gas. Also, I attempted to bring it up to 100km/h and it was continuously idling at 3000/mph. My husband topped up the transmission fluid which was slightly low and no change. I have been neglectful in having the oil changed however we keep it topped up - would that even be a factor with this situation?
#137 of 140 Re: 2004 Ford escape/battery drain [greybird1]
Sep 30, 2013 (9:42 am)
My key off current drain was found to be the GEM module, which is located under the center console. This went on for a number of years until I took it to a service manager who had the same problem and was familiar with it and actually understood what I was talking about. The GEM module controls a number of items. What is a Generic Electronic Module?
The Generic Electronic Module (GEM) is found on Ford vehicles and is basically a Body Control Computer. It controls many of the following functions on most Ford vehicles:
Warning chimes and warning lamps
One-touch down driver's side window
Daytime Running Lamps
Heated rear window
Windshield washers and wipers
Remote keyless entry
Illuminated entry with remote keyless entry
Four-wheel drive . About 40 minutes After you turn off the key and interior lights it's supposed to go in to standby mode which reduces the key off current to approx. 25 ma. Mine was staying at about 90 ma thereby draining my battery in approx. 10 days. When they install a new one or a used one it must be programmed so it has to be done at the ford dealer. After years of replacing batteries, alternator and keeping the battery hooked up to a charger mine finally is working properly. Hope this helps as not all symptoms are the same fix. Two Independent garages and the first Ford dealer couldn't figure it out. I was at the point of trading it.
#138 of 140 2004 Ford Escape Battery Drain
Nov 02, 2013 (6:22 pm)
Drove it last Tuesday. Everything fine. Thursday night horrible beeping noise, it was the radar detector flashing "Low Voltage". And dome light was flashing. Pulled the radar detector. Charged the battery the next day. Started that night. Wouldn't start the next day. Found that the radio was coming on after the car was shut off. It's the original Ford radio. Has a mind of its own. That is what was draining the battery. Have now pulled the fuse for the radio. But now, the cruise control sometimes works, sometimes doesn't. The dash lights where the radio is now flash on and off when the right turn signal is on. And the remote locks the doors, but will not arm the alarm. This happened in TWO DAYS. I don't know what's going on. Can you help me?