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SUVs Jeep Cherokee and Jeep Grand Cherokee Jeep Grand Cherokee Electrical Problems
209 messages, Last post on Nov 23, 2009 at 5:00 PM
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I changed the battery in my 2004 Grand Cherokee and to keep the clock on time and other things from happening, I connected another battery to the battery leads when I removed the dying battery. Installation seemed to go perfectly, but when I drove the vehicle two problems, that were not present before, were manifested: 1) Cruise Control light appears on dash when I press the on button, but it will not engage. 2) Mode control (recirculation, floor, floor/vent, vent, defrost, etc.) does not work but the fan does - all heating or air conditioning comes out of the windshield defrost louver. I checked the fuses in the cab and under the hood, all tested OK.
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Replying to: tuggajb (Apr 26, 2008 11:36 am) I'm going to pick the Jeep up today and if it still doesn't work I'm gonna SCREAM!! Anyone have an Idea as to what could cause all these problems? It seams the dealer is trying to solve each individual problem instead of looking at one cause for all the problems. It has 34,500 miles on it and I'm afraid if this happends again outside the warranty I'm screwed. Also, do I have any legal action I can take to protect me from getting screwed later...ie Magnusson- Moss Warranty Act?? or will they extend my warranty?? Thanks, |
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Replying to: naoredson1 (Apr 25, 2008 5:08 pm) To all: Jeep Cherokees & Grand Cherokees are very prone to crappy cable grounds & such can cause all kinds of intermittent wierdness. The rear ground strap from the head to the firewall (driver side) is often broken / left off after service work that might involve getting the motor / head out (or CPS replacement if the mechanic doesn't know the tricks for replacing that). Battery to ground cable - check it! Positive cable harness - check it! Ground cable mentioned above - check it! Another thing to check are sensor harness connections - especially on the early / mid-90's models. The get oxidized / corroded and voltages get spotty especially when they get some moisture in them. Most auto parts stores carry generic, pre-made cables in a variety of lengths. When swapping them out, always opt for a larger gage wire as this was another area the factory saved .01 cents per 10 zillion Jeeps. (Larger gage wire will carry the cranking load with less resistance meaning your battery / charging & starting system will work a little easier.) |
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Replying to: tuggajb (Apr 26, 2008 11:36 am) To all: Don't use those crappy clamp on battery terminal clamps! They are an corrosion magnet & I've seen more than one that would cause a vehicle to not even start - mimicking a bad battery. |
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Replying to: andyman74 (Apr 30, 2008 12:10 am) Check the gigantihumungous connector that carries the wiring harness through the firewall. Sounds like it is loose & not making full connection. Almost every circuit you list runs through it directly and the others could be affected by intermittent voltage. Long shot maybe - but if it's loose, it's a simple fix. (One screw on my much, much older Jeep.)
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Replying to: lunghd (Apr 30, 2008 2:03 pm)
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| i took it to a shop and had them run a diagnostic test on it. they came up with the ecm and cluster werent communicating correctly and caused the problems. so they reset the code and for now the comp and cluster seem to working properly. its a fix for now but will update later if anything changes. | |
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Replying to: andyman74 (May 02, 2008 9:38 pm)
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| does anyone know what the diagnostic trouble code (dtc report) U110A and U1411 are? | |
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