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Chevy Blazer Oil Pressure problem

17 messages, Last post on Nov 05, 2009 at 2:19 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Blazer Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Ok I had to change the oil filter on my 02 Chevy Extreme Blazer 4.3L V6, because It was shooting out oil around the seal which had broken in 2. I replaced it with an AC Delco filter and tightned it to Spec, Filled it back up with oil, and then statred it. The oil pressure went immediatly all the way up to spike the gauge in the dash and then blew the O ring right out of the side of the filter and shot another 2 quarts of oil on the floor. We already checked the radiator and the lines going to and from it. Any ideas are welcome please help Thank you in advance Familysize75
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I have a 1993 Jimmy 4X4. I had been running around town today and after my last stop. It seems like it would not shift past 2nd when you had it in drive or over drive it would move but at very high RPMs. The speedometer would not register at all, transmion level is fine and dose not feel gritty any ideas
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Replying to: familysize75 (Apr 12, 2008 6:01 am) |
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Original sensor failed last April. Had been reading 40lbs. for about 165,000 miles. Oil pressure indication recently became erratic. Up, down not related to RPM. This was the replacement of the original sensor, which failed last April. Changed sensor again. Pressure stable at 40 lbs. for about 5 days [approx. 150 miles ] Last night engine started normally and drove about one mile. Suddenly pressure went to 0, digital warning flashed, check engine light came on and engine died. Sensor has a fuel pump cut out switch. Today I, found the oil level full. [ about 600 miles since change & new FRAM filter ] I removed sensor, checked with air pressure and found it to be OK both pressure and cut out. Observed there was very little if any oil on sensor and was not to the top of the open port. With the sensor removed, turned engine with starter. No oil came out of open port.[ may not have turned it long enough. was sitting over night ] I then added a small amount of oil into tho sensor port. It took very little to over flow. Again turned the engine. Bad idea. Blew oil all over the engine which ,by the way, I had just cleaned. Re installed the sensor and started the engine. Started instantly with 40 lbs. oil pressure My questions are; Since this is the second sensor change this year, am I buying defective sensors? [Auto Zone Duralast PS168 ] Could I have temporarily cleared the problem by putting air into the sensor or oil in the port? Do I have an oil pump about to die? Now at 176,000+ miles but running great until now. What else can I check to determine the cause? It seems totally unreliable as is. There is an unused port above the oil filter. If I install a mechanical gauge at this point in the loop, will it read correctly? Thanks for any suggestions
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Replying to: stickmandadof3 (Apr 19, 2008 4:50 pm) GM Part# 15547452 |
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Replying to: familysize75 (Apr 12, 2008 6:01 am) Was the old o-ring from prev. filter still on engine when new filter was replaced? The oil pressure guage only spiked do to oil filter blowing off. Try pulling coil wire when you change oil filter on start up to build pressure up in the lines. check for leaks before it actually starts. Are you adding oil to the filter before screwing it onto engine? Sometimes you can overfill. Try this and see if this helps. |
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Replying to: rfletcher (Oct 26, 2008 9:53 am) Good luck, Jim |
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AC suddenly went completely dead. Found 25 A fuse open. Checked blower, clutch etc for shorts. AOK so replaced the fuse. Worked perfectly for about ten minutes and again went dead. Opened control circuit at pressure SW, clutch and control relay to isolate the wiring . Found 2 ohm to ground on wire leading to ECM. Now, if I could only find the ECM, might be able to fix it. Chilton said, " If it's not in the engine compartment then it might be behind the glove box or some place under the dash or behind the kick plate". Easter egg? The truck looks like it had been parked over night in a ghetto and I still can't find the ECU. Can any one be a little more specific as to where I might find the ECU? Can any one explain why the AC control even goes through the ECU? I prefer to replace the ECU, if necessary, but what would happen if I bypassed it and went directly to the clutch? Thanks
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Replying to: rfletcher (Aug 05, 2009 11:37 am) Never mind, I found the ECU /ECM. It was not the problem but by tracing the grounded wire back, found the problem in a connector that does not show in the manual. All systems are now GO. For any one interested, the ECU / ECM is installed [ hidden ] behind the glove box. In this model the box appears to be a rigid part of the entire dash. Below the dash there is a shelf that runs from the passenger side kick panel just beyond the 4X4 shift lever. Even with all the screws out, it is difficult to remove. The kick panel comes out easily. A single screw, now visible, secures the mounting bracket. With that screw out, the entire unit slides down from it's hiding place. The cable harness is rather short and tangled so a little care should be taken. I had to remove the two small plugs on the inboard side before it was free. Thanks
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Replying to: rfletcher (Aug 05, 2009 6:50 pm) What did you find that was blowing the fuse?
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