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Sedans Toyota Camry 2010 Toyota Camry
584 messages, Last post on Nov 25, 2009 at 11:44 PM
You are in the Toyota Camry Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: mcdawgg (Jul 09, 2009 6:00 pm) Get a manual transmission Camry, like I did! I have a really long commute (45 miles one way...) and I know myself well enough to know that I would regret such a purchase. I drove a 5-speed Accord for 7 years and it was a blast on the open road but a real drag in stop-and-go traffic. |
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Replying to: acesk8er (Jul 09, 2009 10:10 am) |
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I'm buying a 2010 Camry LE and don't like the hub caps. Would I be better off getting the Alloy Wheels at purchase, think it adds another $400-$500 or go after market and add my own rims later on. I'd like to get chrome wheels if there not too expensive and I'm not sure how the metal wheels would hold up that I've been seeing on the internet. I'd like the spend less then $200 per wheel. Thanks, Chris
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| I have decided to pursue a base model 2010 Camry instead of an Accord. I haven't bought a new car in years, so don't know what has changed since then as far as tactics. Any strategy that you guys used to get a good deal on the 2010 Camry? Any rebates, incentives, etc. out there right now? Also, i went to a dealership after it closed since i didn't feel like talking to a salesguy yet to check out the new Camrys. I noticed the sales sticker on window didn't specify if it was a 2009 or 2010, so how can i find out? Thanks. | |
| Also, i read about this yesterday. My old 97' Honda comes out to 19 MPG,so it doesn't qualify for this clash for clunkers deal. Is there a way to get something from this program? I understand that the government site says to be eligible, you need 18 MPG to get $3500. I am wondering considering how close my old Honda is to the requirement, maybe i can get some $$ for it. Thanks. | |
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Replying to: chris789 (Jul 11, 2009 1:06 pm) |
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Replying to: jason50 (Jul 11, 2009 3:48 pm) Also check out Toyota.com for more information regarding specs, options, etc. Your '97 Accord isn't eligible for "cash for clunkers." To get the most money for it, you should try selling it yourself rather than trading it in. A dealer will give you next to nothing for it, assuming average miles and condition. |
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Replying to: jason50 (Jul 11, 2009 3:48 pm)
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Replying to: jason50 (Jul 11, 2009 3:48 pm) Become educated on what good deals are, and be prepared to jump on it when you get it. Research up front what options might typically be available and included in different trim levels, what the MRSP and invoice are for the vehicle you are looking at. Be careful as to what the dealer administrative fees are, some have aggressive pricing but then have some ridiculous administrative fees tacked on. Do your research for comparison at www.fitzmall.com They are a very good no hassle dealership, with a great online website. They sit in a very competitive east coast DC area, and only CA is typically as competitive or slighty more competitive. They have no admin fees for internet sales on someone flying in (or driving, or taking train) to pick up a car, so their online price is an excellent price comparison for your local dealership. I think if I remember correctly, if you are local to fitz the admin fee is like $100 bucks, compared to $600 as standard where I live. Recognize however, that your local dealership may not be willing to go that low in total and hence, you'll either: - have to pay slightly more - go buy some other brand instead - travel to one of fitzmalls sites It's the local dealership who determines whether they want to do the deal or not. I used to get frustrated because I knew the dealership could go lower, and wouldn't. Just because they 'could', doesn't mean they 'will'. I don't get frustrated anymore, just be prepared to walk and go to another dealership. If you come across as a serious buyer and walk, you may very likely get a callback. Each dealership has different daily objectives. They may do a particular priced deal one day, and not accept it the next. They also don't want to waste a lot of time with anyone haggling. You can get in and get out in less than an hour, if you know your vehicle and competitive prices. They may be very willing to make a quick sale with you, to move some iron. Do your research, know the vehicle, know every element of the financial deal (vehicle, admin fees, local tax, title/license fees, trade-if one, etc), arrange financing up front if you are not paying cash (but allow the dealership to try and beat it once you've agreed on an acceptable sales price), and pull the trigger when you get the deal you were looking for. |
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Replying to: wwest (Jul 11, 2009 9:02 pm) 
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