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Sedans Cadillac DeVille 97 Deville Idle and Coolant
20 messages, Last post on Dec 27, 2008 at 6:56 PM
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Replying to: clint0221 (Sep 09, 2008 10:47 pm) Take the inside door panel off. You can then get to the bolts that hold the mirror to the door. If the outside door skin has been badly dented up when the mirror pulled off, then you have a problem that only a body shop can fix.
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Replying to: bolivar (Sep 10, 2008 9:40 pm) |
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I have read in the owner's manual of this vehicle not to add anything other than Dex-Cool 50-50. I have also read on another forum that they talk about adding the GM Coolant System Seal Tabs. What is the proper thing to do?
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Replying to: bena8837 (Oct 27, 2008 7:05 am) By 2002, I think Cadillac may have stopped recommending the coolant tabs. On older models, there was a sticker on the motor/plastic fan cover/somewhere under there, that gave the part number for the tabs. You only need to add tabs if you dump all the old coolant out. Since you can't get all of it out by opening the radiator or pulling a lower hose, I only put three in. DON"T PUT THE TABS IN THE "OVERFLOW" TANK. (It really isn't an overflow tank, because it is pressurized and has the rad cap on it. It is correctly called the 'surge tank'.) PULL A RADIATOR HOSE AND PUT THE TABS IN THERE. There is not enough coolant flow thru the 'surge tank' to move the tab material out of there, and it is mainly useless if put in there. The tabs are used mainly for very minor leaks - seepage type, or porisity opening in the block/head castings. The tabs were developed for the earlier 4.1 and 4.9 motors and carried over into the Northstar motors up until about 2001 where there were some redesigns made to the Northstar and I think GM no longer recommends their use.
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Replying to: bolivar (Oct 28, 2008 11:28 pm) |
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my coolant ran up to 260...i shut the engine off. mechanic replaced surge tank, thermostat, and radiator for 800 bucks parts and labor. now heat does'nt work and i ran up to the steamin' 260 again...of course i shut down and the mechanic says he will look at it again. he says there are no signs of a blown headgasket and will have to look into it some more. before i left he said he had it idle for two hours with no problems...that my coolant problem was fixed. he also suggested that i replace all those parts in order to fix the problem! two questions...what could the problem possibly be? what obligation does this shop have after telling me the problem was fixed? he said there were no signs of a head gasket problem.
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Replying to: hagerhorst (Dec 08, 2008 6:18 pm) If driving slowly does not overheat, but going to high speed (60mph+), or driving up a hill, does start an overheat - blown head gasket problem. There might be a problem with the small belt that drives the water pump. This is driven off the rear of the left head cam. Which means it it near the front of the car on the driver's side. This belt is under a metal cover. Or might be a problem with a sticking thermostat or bad water pump. But these usually don't cause a problem. I don't understand why this causes the heat to fail. I'm not going to get into whether or not the mechanic owe you anything for the problem continuing. This is between you and him. |
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Every 5-6 days had to add about 1-1.5 gallons of water to system. Water has been leaking from left front of vehicle for abour 2 months. the other day on 60 min drive engine heated up to 260 degrees and warning light came on. got home and had to add about 2 gallons of coolant. could the water pump be leaking? dont think this model has a weep hole like others. The pump is the type that sets in the housing and seals with an o-ring. Any help?
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Replying to: jpix1 (Dec 26, 2008 2:39 pm) Or, the cross over pipe is leaking. Much more involved to repair. Both are on the left front on the motor area (Essentially the 'rear' of the motor since it sits in there cross-wise). What aren't you fixing this leak? You are going to burn the motor up if you continue to run it while low on coolant. Or blow a head gasket - which is already a weak point of Northstar motors, and very, very expensive to repair.
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Replying to: bolivar (Dec 27, 2008 3:56 am) |
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