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#29 of 33 Re: Stalling, engine light lit, accelerating problems,smoking [amobofone] by itsa69corvette

Jun 12, 2012 (1:43 pm)

Replying to: amobofone (May 16, 2012 8:54 am)

No, I didn't replace the tank.....way to expencive and lot's of work.
So I made my own dieselfilter inside the tank, wrapped around the stock filter attached to the pump. Capable to pick up A LOT more filth before getting clogged. Works like a dream Basically, my plan is to keep driving it till it stops, then take out the filter and clean it. Still havent had a stop for 2 months now though. Still fighting with the Hyundai dealer here, but doesn't seem to get anywhere, so I have contacted a consumers` council here.
We'll see how it turnes out, but the car will be sold. Never had such a piece of crap.

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#30 of 33 Followup: Hyundai Tucson Acceleration Issues [spgandau] by spgandau

Jun 25, 2012 (4:14 pm)

Replying to: spgandau (Jun 01, 2012 4:48 am)

Jun 22, 2012 updated info:
After doing all the work above, I replaced the ECU with a rebuilt unit. within 100 miles, I got a check engine light. I went to the dealer and asked for a code and explanation. The code was P0420 (catalytic coverter) The technician, after realizing that I was technically-bent gave a reasoned explanation. Basically, he explained that if the catalytic converter was going bad, it could cause the 02 sensors(both of them) to go bad, and cause other check engine lite issues. He also claimed that the catalytic converter should be replaced every 80,000 miles... which was the first that I had heard of this.
I went home, bought a "bolt-fit" catalytic converter from NAPA and replaced my old unit (which now had 150,000+ miles). Dealer wanted $900+ to do the job. I bought the unit, rented an impact wrench to get teh bolts loose, spent 5 hrs working, and paid $300+.
I also sent off my old ECU and had it overhauled. The overhaul report showed the ECU had one capacitor break and spill electrolyte onto the printed circuit board. Several solder joints were poorly done. The overhaul facility cleaned the board, replaced the capacitor and re-soldered several joints.
So....it seems that part of the issue may have been the catalytic converter being old and partially plugged(?)...it seems that 95% clear is enough to cause a catalytic failure code. It also seems that the ECU had also failed and was partially causing some of the seemingly unrelated codes.
I have re-set the check engine light (disconnected the negative terminal on the battery, and removed the 10A ECU fuse and waited overnight). So far, I have driven only 50 miles. Runs OK. My understanding is that if I get the P0420 code again, it is most likely caused by the pre-catalytic units that are integral to each exhaust manifold (V6 2.7 L). They will be an expense that I am not ready to cross. If I get another code, I will probably sell the car and get a different brand altogether....

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#31 of 33 issues resolved by spgandau

Jul 15, 2012 (11:59 am)

I have finally resolved my issues, to my own satisfaction. I will list them in order:
 
a) The ECU was the utlimate culprit. It was broken inside, and after I had it overhauled, there was no more issues with acceleration problem, hesitation, etc.
 
b) The check engine light did come on after I initially installed the new ECU. It consisently gave a P0420 code (bank one, which is the aft set of cylinders on the V-6). I had already replaced the catalytic convertor, so I am confident that it was a legitmate code. I did nothing to replace, clean, or deal with the P0420 code.
 
c) I re-set the ECU--disconnected the battery AND removed the fuse overnight. Then, I drove for 500+ miles. Initially, the light was off for 70 miles, then on until 200+ miles ( I confirmed the codes at Autozone), then it went off and stayed off. Car operated normally, UNTIL the high outside temperatures arrived.....
 
d) Then, the AC was intermittent. I noticed that the engine began to overheat (it never reached redline), and as the engine temperature rose above normal, the AC began to put out less cold air. Eventually, the AC stopped altogether. Then, as the engine temperature returned to normal, the AC began to work again. As long as the outside air temp was less than 90 degrees F, the AC worked. As the temperature rose above 90, the engine would begin to over heat and the AC would slowly put out less and less cold air until it would only blow HOT air.
 
e) The check engine light remained OFF through all of this AC problem and engine overheating, so I am confident that the issue of acceleration was resolved with the ECU change. If acceleration is your only issue, I would recommend changing the ECU.
 
I did the only thing left to do...
 
 I SOLD THE CAR AND BOUGHT A HONDA CR-V.

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#32 of 33 Re: Tucson 2009 Issue [ynk4r] by cowgirlinsand

Jun 03, 2013 (11:21 am)

Replying to: ynk4r (Jun 11, 2009 2:58 pm)

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#33 of 33 while driving, uncontroled rpm+enormous smoke by freewill2

Jun 16, 2013 (2:44 pm)