Last post on May 23, 2013 at 11:17 AM
You are in the Honda CR-V
What is this discussion about?
Honda CR-V, Security System, SUV
#39 of 90 Re: 2003 Honda CRV - Power Door Locks and Mirror problem [sd73]
Aug 19, 2010 (2:06 pm)
I just finished replacing the auto door lock on the drivers door of my 2004 CR-V. This completely fixed the door lock problem I had which is identical to the problem you are having. The mirrors not working is posibly the connector has slipped off. Changing the power door lock was no easy task and took me about 3 hours start to finish. There are several sites that show how to do this but none were very descriptive and I had to figure it out as I went. Everything works like new again so it was successful. The part cost me $83 and change shipped to my house from autozone. Good luck!
#40 of 90 Re: 2003 Honda CRV - Power Door Locks and Mirror problem [hawg1983]
Aug 27, 2010 (8:48 am)
Good to hear you finished and is working OK. Is the actuator the grey/black plastic box located on the left bottom side of the driver's side door that has two electrical connectors plugged into it? If so how did you detach it from the white plasic rod holder?
#41 of 90 Re: 2004 Honda CRV - Power Door Locks and Mirror problem [hawg1983]
Nov 05, 2010 (3:29 pm)
I see that I am not the only guy with a driver door lock problem. hawg mentioned having visited sites showing you how to replace the actuator. I would like to know where these sites are as I intend to do this myself. Additionally, I am worried about how to take the door panel off. In the old days I remember you had to have some special kind of tool. Any tips would be appreciated by this new member. Thanks
May 26, 2011 (12:43 pm)
the power door locks failed. I have the non antenna style so used the grey wire to re-run power to the module in the driver's door, got a used driver's actuator and module but the other three doors don't work even though there is continuity between the door and under the dash for the two wires that lock/unlock the passenger doors. Any suggestions.
#43 of 90 Re: 1997 locks CR-V [charlie121]
May 26, 2011 (2:28 pm)
If none of your locks are working, may be the electronic Modulator. I started having multiple symptoms... first locks wouldn't work, then my Brake light would come on intermitently and then my A/C wouldn't come on. Pulled into Dealership and they wanted to change out 3 different things, including $1600 for new A/C which they told me was fried. I paid them $75 for "checking my car out" and brought it to my local mechanic. They changed our the Modulator and that took care of the door locks, the brake light intermitently coming on and the A/C worked just fine! It cost me about 1/4 of what I was quoted at the dealership.
#44 of 90 Re: 1997 locks CR-V [kim_in_br]
May 26, 2011 (2:30 pm)
p.s. About 2 years later, I began having problems with ONLY the driver door lock not working with the key fob. Replaced the driver door Acuator and all is well.
#45 of 90 Re: 1997 locks CR-V [kim_in_br]
Jun 04, 2011 (8:13 am)
My 2002 CRV is having a similar problem. All power door locks have stopped working and the parking brake light stays on.
kim_in_br you said that this could be an electronic modulator problem? Can you give more details. What is an electronic modulator?
#46 of 90 Driver's door kept relocking when trying to unlock
Jun 17, 2011 (8:39 pm)
Hope this helps someone. 1999 CR-V, but probably useful for other years. Just solved my uncooperative driver's side lock. For about a year I had to jerk on the outside handle before the key could lift the lock post and let me in. Sometimes I couldn't get out too. The electric lock would pull it back down. Pulled the door panel and unplugged, then found the problem was still there, except was no longer relocking itself, it just was hard to move, especially when hot. Took the whole thing out. Noticed a spring lying in the bottom of the door. Looked at latch mechanism and found two hooks with no spring. Loop on spring broken but I have a boxful collected over the years so was able to find a close match (about 1 inch long, medium tension). Now the unlatch lever returns to its place after the door handle released. The reason heat made it worse is the grease: slicker when hot, unlatch lever would fall back down when handle let go, blocking the locking lever. Now it stays up out of the way. Did have to adjust the length of the handle rod (take the handle assembly out while still connected to door, pull up and turn it around until the rod is right length [it is threaded at the top knuckle for this purpose]-- in my case about two turns CCW). Now everything works great. Decided I liked it better without electricity, left it unplugged. Can still un/lock the rest by the door switch, but do the driver door manually. Note: getting the assembly out is not very easy and getting it back in is worse. To get the window track out of the way: take off the screw below the latch on the end of the door, peel the rubber track out of the metal channel, and set metal channel aside. The rest is just paying attention and not forcing anything.
#47 of 90 Re: Driver's door kept relocking when trying to unlock [stmradio]
by kyfdx HOST
Jun 18, 2011 (8:03 am)
I bet you are pretty handy around the house, too... Wish you were my neighbor...
#48 of 90 Electric Door Locks
Aug 07, 2011 (9:41 am)
Does anybody have any experience troubleshooting Honda CRV electric door locks. The issue I'm having is a bit different than the others. The drivers door will lock/unlock with the remote and when inside by pushing the button. However, the other 3 doors will not respond to the remote or the button that locks all doors on the drivers door. I've toggled the master switch on and off. I've looked at the fuses and they're all good. Any thoughts?