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Sedans Cadillac DeVille Cadillac Deville Starting / Stalling Problems
41 messages, Last post on Oct 29, 2009 at 10:28 PM
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Once the car is started, there is no problem with that. As I'm driving the car, every once in a while it would just stall out. I'll pull off the road and restart it with no problem. It wont really happen again until the next time I drive it. There is no check engine light or anything. I tried to get a diagnostics but couldn't because the check engine light wasn't on. Other than that, everything works as it should. Can anyone help me with this? 
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Replying to: 98slab (Oct 15, 2008 4:29 pm) Crank Position Sensors. There are two of them, replace them both.
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Replying to: bolivar (Oct 15, 2008 8:29 pm)
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Replying to: 98slab (Nov 06, 2008 7:54 pm)
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Replying to: bolivar (Nov 07, 2008 1:16 am) |
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I've had a 97 Deville now for 4 years. When I first got it (had 50,000 miles on it), it stalled when I was decelerating.....say from 40 MPH down to 20 or 10 MPH....I replaced the crank shaft position sensors, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, etc. Turned out to be the EGR valve....(it was just not functioning properly and choking off the engine). I have had no decelerating stall outs since then (going on 3 years and I'm up to 100,000 Miles).....but like most 10 year old Devilles new problems have emerged over the last couple of months (it's been a relatively quiet 3 years of driving though since so I can't totally complain).
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Replying to: transocean1 (Dec 14, 2008 7:03 am)
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I have a 1998 Deville and the driver’s window stopped working. I can’t locate the fuse, the books I have talks about the fuse and relay but they don’t tell you were they are located. Is there a trick to getting the door panels off?
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Replying to: willietopz (Dec 17, 2008 9:25 am) Removing door panel, if like my 97 - there is a screw behind the lower rear lights that turn on when the door is opened. You have to pull the lights off and there is a screw. Then pry up the panel at the front that has all the power window buttons (I think, it's been a while since I did this, it might be the seat control panel.) You must pry the panel up, then there is another large screw that can be reached. Then, there is the little triangle shaped trim piece at the front top of the panel. There is a push-in panel pin there, you gently pry around this piece until it pulls out. There are NOT push-pins all around the edge of the panel - it is retained by screws, this one pin at the top front, and it then have J hooked shaped connectors on the panel that push down into U shaped connectors in the inner door. So, basically, when you have the screws out and the one pin out, you just pull the panel straight up and it's loose. There are all kind of electrical connectors still attached. The lights, the window controls, the speaker wires, etc, etc. And, you probably have a side AIR BAG! Before starting any of this DISCONNECT THE BATTERY! Disconnect the air bag connections from the panel. If you blow an air bag, don't blame me! What you are trying to get to is the window motor, which is probably failed. Pull the power connector off the motor. Put a volt meter into the two wires of the connector. Reconnect the battery. Push the window button up, you should have 12+ or - volts. Push the window button down, you shoud have 12- or + volts (the reverse of what you get the other time). If you get this, the wiring and the switch and the fuse, etc are all ok. If not, start working on getting power there. If you have the correct voltages, the motor has failed. Put a couple of strips of duct tape up the window and onto the top of the door frame. This will keep the window from falling. There are 3 bolts holding the motor in, it's real easy to remove. After bolts out, you might have to wiggle it around a little. Take the motor to any auto parts house. Check carefully that the motor sold to you is identical to the old one. At Autozone, their part numbers are messed up, I got a right hand one when I needed the left hand one, so, take the old one in. It should be about $70 or so. Buckle it back up. Your are done. The worse part of the job is getting the door panel off a Cadillac. The motors are all bolted in and easy to remove. |
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Well I took the car to the dealer and was told that the crank sensors were good and that the ERG was faulty. Had it changed and that still didn't fix the problem. Afterwards, the throttlebody was cleaned and they said that should do the trick, but once again it did nothing. Now I'm being told that the IAC is most likely the problem. Is there anyone who can really help me? Some of the DTC codes are: PCM P0603, IPC B1552, ACM B1341, TCS C1255, PZM B1552/1558, and MMM B2144. Most these didn't show until I disconnected the negative cable from the battery. Also they all are history codes and not current. Please help, I'm at a loss:(
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