Last post on Sep 13, 2012 at 1:44 AM
You are in the Kia Rondo
What is this discussion about?
Kia Rondo, Tires, Steering, Suspension, Wagon
#51 of 60 Re: ESC or Traction or something [bgw]
Jan 27, 2011 (7:30 pm)
Can I install studded tires on my 08 Rondo LX-V6? Do you have to use smaller tires since the clearance if pretty tight in the front fenders.
#52 of 60 Re: ESC or Traction or something [burnselk]
Apr 15, 2011 (10:48 am)
Sorry for such a late reply. My EX has 17" rims and 225/50R17 tires. I use 15 " x 6.5" rims with 205/65R15 studded winter tires, and have been doing so since 2007. Works fine.
Apr 19, 2011 (4:39 pm)
You can fix your rondo easily. for the Rear; EZ Arm 67410 SPC from; www.iapdirect.com ( 1 arm per side) You may need to elongate the toe adjustment hole. They supply instructions. as for the front; Drivewire 877.221.9770 Camber Bolt # AC45K18036 (1 bolt per side) Do NOT take to KIA dealer. They will rip you off. It's easy if you are mechanical inclined at all. If not: Get a friend to help you or a trusted mechanic. Your Rondo will handle much better when the whole tire makes contact with the road surface,......
#54 of 60 Re: KIA Rhondo Handling, Tires, Suspension [e_net_rider]
Feb 19, 2012 (9:23 pm)
I have a 2009 rondo and had it in for alignment twice in 4-6 months. I have told them several times after that the car seems to pull to the right at times but not all the time. Now my tires are worn out, actually worn in the center of the tire. Tires are Michilen 225/50r/17 which are rated for 80,000 km. I was told this at about 54,000 and all km are highway miles. All good roads. I have had lots of cars over the years maybe 20-25 and have never seen new tires wearing out before at least 10,000 or less ratings on them. I know that the service has not been that great at the dealership but you would think that they would have checked the tires each time I brought the car in for maintenance checks and told me about them. I guess when it takes two hours to do an oil change I should have checked my reports each time.
#55 of 60 Re: KIA Rhondo Handling, Tires, Suspension [boydew]
Feb 20, 2012 (7:35 am)
Tires worn out at middle is usually because of over-inflation. That is also hard on struts and other components.
#56 of 60 Re: KIA Rhondo Handling, Tires, Suspension [e_net_rider]
Feb 21, 2012 (8:51 am)
I know that over-inflation causes the problem but I only put air in one tire back in september of 2011 and that was only about 3psi. The other tires were fine. What I don`t understand is how can a dealership do a oil change and check your tires and brakes and whatever and not put air in the tires. I guess they don`t check for that. I had the car in twice since last september and the last time was january 2012 and they told me I needed new tires before they could do a wheel aligment(which I asked for) not realizing the tires were gone. When I got home I checked the tires and only one was near the 32psi-one on drivers side and the rest were out by 5-9psi. I guess they don`t check if not asked too.
#57 of 60 Re: KIA Rhondo Handling, Tires, Suspension [boydew]
Feb 21, 2012 (9:29 am)
mine only has 16" tires, i keep them at 38-39psi and i have no problem after 40k.
i remember when i took delivery of the car, the dealer set the tires to 40psi even though the label on the door frame recommends 36.
tire pressure should be checked more often then the times you visit your dealer.
you said the car pulls to side sometimes, do you mean when you accelerate (hard), mine does the same and i think that's normal for front wheel drive, isn't it. my last mini van was even more noticeable because it was a V6.
#58 of 60 Love my Rondo, hate my tires
Sep 12, 2012 (10:26 am)
I'm so glad I bought my little Rondo new in 09. Love almost everything about it. Except the crappy tires. I never got good traction in rain, snow, or ice. I'm not asking for miracles, just to be able to stop when appropriate and to move forward, even uphill in inclement weather. I had a cheap Chevy Cavalier before this with a lot of crappy elements to it, but it had at least adequate traction. I've been nervous every winter with my Rondo, been unable to scale the slight uphill angle of the street in front of my house in winter (had to slide back to the bottom and go a different way), and had huge problems getting up the incline of my driveway in ice and snow, even when its been shoveled. The tires always looked like cheap, wussy little things to me when I bought it new. The dealer seemed to indicate that those were the only tires I could use with a Rondo when I asked, but I have seen other websites indicating otherwise. I have been told now that I'm at 58,000 miles or so, that all 4 tires are completely shot, bald, caput. I'm about to buy 4 tires, and I want better ones, that actually GRIP THE ROAD, and I want to hear any recommendations anyone has for better tires.
#59 of 60 Re: Love my Rondo, hate my tires [luvmarondo]
Sep 13, 2012 (1:35 am)
Go to tirerack.com They have a huge selection. The Continental Contact is a good tire.
#60 of 60 Re: KIA Rhondo Handling, Tires, Suspension 
Sep 13, 2012 (1:44 am)
The door placard may not have the best pressure, but it is a good starting point. As stated earlier, tires worn out in the center indicate overpressure compared to even wear. Likely not the reason for premature wear out, but possibly a contributing factor.
There are a wide array of suspension designs and cost likely influences some of them. I found the suspension in the 90's Olds Aurora to be unique and exceptional in many ways yet it seems no one else is using that.
BTW, that vehicle had absolutely zero torque steer. One of the factors contributing to torque steer is totally ignored in the design of this vehicle. Unequal length drive shafts.
What works best for tire pressure can vary a pound or two by tire model. Face it, this vehicle is a cheap vehicle, but designed with a lot of quality for the buck. A time when "you get what you pay for" qualifies.
I can not speak for your driving conditions but when replacement was necessary we put Michelin on. The vehicle almost never sees snow. The Michelin are superior to the Hankook in the following ways. Much quieter and smoother ride under any conditions such as road surface changes and variants by seasonal temperature. Stopping, especially wet, seems improved. Not throughly tested since we don't push it to find out how quickly tires will let loose. Something no one should be routinely doing. Maybe like testing brakes when they get wet, when it is safe to do so.
All tires change with wear and age as to how well they will perform a needed task. Firestone/Bridgestone claims they have overcome the aging issue with Uni-T technology, like using two different types of rubber for the tread. But I've found those tires poor in many other ways from day one or low mileage that the necessary age was never reached.
We have a small safety net these days, if it is enforced, in that tires are not to be sold as new one year past manufacturer date (it is on the sidewall). Even a tire just sitting in storage ages. The last I checked, Michelin warranty expires after five years which is now the recommended age limit for any tire. You might be able to push the envelope a little if you have special circumstances such as living in Alaska where low temperatures might slow the aging process. But then you'd likely not buy the usual tire anyway.
What I've found is Michelins perform quite well over their lifespan. Almost as good as new until worn most of the way and have not shown hardening until five or six years (we're not usually or always high mileage drivers) What I have learned is that some tires degrade significantly with as little a 2/32" wear. Savannah GA gets plenty of rain and not uncommon to find pockets of standing water. Hydroplane is a major concern unless you are able to always stay off the road when it rains.
Most tires have 10/32" rubber new and considered worn out at 2/32". If you frequently encounter less than ideal road it is likely not a good idea to run on that small amount of tread. Water being a primary concern, it is very important that the tires have a method of letting that water out from under the tread. Wide sidewall sipes are very good at that but also allow faster tread wear. Many manufacturers counter that by not having that side sipe the full depth of tread, but only half-way. That is, when that side sipe channel gets fully closed off you have only used 5/32" of rubber. Factoring in the dry road government standard of wornout, 2/32", that allows only 3/32" of wear before wet road performance declines rapidly. Remember that the manufacturer's brags are for new tires. And there is no way of holding them accountable if you have a hydroplane accident with half the tread left. This is a case of you, the owner, becoming responsible for your own safety. This is just one example of things to consider when buying. And it is a very important safety issue relative to automobiles. "If the tires don't work, do brakes really matter?"
I understand budgetary constraints but going cheap on tires is one of the last things you should do. Insurance might make your vehicle situation OK, but no amount of money can totally undue your body damage (personal injury).
Even if you drive a refugee from a junk yard, you should have the best tires you can find.