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Chevrolet Cobalt Transmission Issues

89 messages,  Last post on May 23, 2013 at 10:17 AM

You are in the Chevrolet Cobalt Forum.

What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Cobalt, Transmission, Coupe, Sedan

Messages Page 8 of 10

#68 of 89 Re: Anyone else? [gmcustsvc] by mountainboy1

Oct 28, 2011 (4:19 am)

Replying to: gmcustsvc (Oct 27, 2011 10:41 am)
Good Morning GM Customer Service,
I have an appointment with Champion Chevrolet in Johnson City TN at .(423) 218-0328
 next Sat. at 8:30am (11-05-11). I have talked with tech Mark Leonard and told him what the issue was and also that I had been talking with other Cobalt owners online that were having the same issue. Mine= 2008 Chev Cobalt, miles 62k I dont have the VIN on me right now. I told Mark that most owners have found that the issue is a TCC valve and cover problem. When the dealers go to order parts to replace it takes extra time to get parts due to new issued replacement parts being sent. Sounds like a defect and as I have found should be covered under the Powertrain Warranty. I am also emailing the GM Customer Service my info to set up a case incase the dealer states its not a problem. Terry Reece--TN

#69 of 89 Re: Anyone else? [gmcustsvc] by mountainboy1

Oct 28, 2011 (4:28 am)

Replying to: gmcustsvc (Oct 27, 2011 10:41 am)
Terry V Reece / Mountainboy1aol.com
P O Box 304 Elizabethton, TN 37644
    2008 Chev Cobalt / 2 dr Vin# 1G1AL18F187278900 Appointment set 11-05-11 at Champion Chevrolet-Johnson City TN (423) 218-0328 8:30am
Tech= Mark Leonard
Miles = 62k
 
Please help with the Flutter/Shutter Issue
TCC Valve.

#70 of 89 why does the idle fall by cocco

Oct 29, 2011 (4:18 pm)

my 2005 cobolt stall when im stopped. im at a redlight and it stalls when stopped. the idle falls below one half and it dies. sometimes when i accellerate and it goes to shift (automatic) it stalls too

#71 of 89 Re: Anyone else? [mountainboy1] by gmcustsvc

Nov 01, 2011 (7:28 am)

Replying to: mountainboy1 (Oct 28, 2011 4:28 am)
Good morning, Terry,
 
Thank you very much for the information, and please keep us updated on your progress towards resolving this concern. If you have any other questions, please feel free to email Christina.
 
Best,
Sarah
GM Customer Service

#72 of 89 Re: Anyone else? [rdesantis] by gmcustsvc

Nov 01, 2011 (9:03 am)

Replying to: rdesantis (Oct 27, 2011 11:18 am)
If you were to bring your HHR to the dealer, just know that Customer Assistance is available to you. Email Christina with your information!
 
Best,
Sarah
GM Customer Service

#73 of 89 stalling and lights burn out by cocco

Nov 01, 2011 (8:06 pm)

not only does my 2005 cobolt stall frequently but the headlights and turnsignal lights burn out constantly. my mechanic says there is an electrical problem but he can't pin point it...any ideas. my new bulbs last from a week to a day.

#74 of 89 Test for Transmission Shudder Problems by drvette

Nov 25, 2011 (1:41 pm)

The Torque Converter Clutch [TCC] "Lock-up" sequence can cause problems, to test if the TCC is the problem try this.
 
1. Fully warm the vehicle and enter the time the shudder occurs.
2. Without releasing the gas pedal, engage the brakes lightly, this will dis-engage the TCC
3. IF the shudder stops, a THEN re-occurs upon releasing the brake pedal, the TCC is at fault.
 
Cause, "generally" the fit between the Torque Converter shaft and the bearing in the transmission is too wide, often a torque converter fixes the issue, other times it takes BOTH the bearing and the torque converter to remedy the situation.
 
Early TCC engagements had ONE lock-up speed, this resulted in "hunting" or continuous locking and unlocking of the TCC , newer vehicles have spread the speed of the lock and unlock by several MPH to avoid this.
 
"INDUSTRY" has an average memory of Seven years before making the same mistake again.
Perhaps the computer on the Cobalt is set too close on this action.
 
Otherwise the valve body may cause the transmission to shift up and down erratically.
 
A competent aftermarket Transmission shop can usually correct these issues by changing spring pressures or drilling out fluid passage restrictions.
Look for a High Performance Transmission Shop for this issue.
 
Another route is to contact GM Customer Service.
Even if a vehicle is OUT-OF-WARRANTY, problems specific to a vehicle are often fixed for free.
 
Ask your Parts Man for TSB's regarding your vehicle, this may incur a small cost, otherwise look in the back of your owners manual for Service Manuals / TSB's [Technical Service Bulletins]
When asking the parts man for a favor, always bring a bag of Apples or Donuts for bribery
 
Here's GM's contact info if the former provides no joy.
 
GM General Motors Corporate Office Headquarters HQ
300 Renaissance Center
Detroit, MI United States
48265
GM Corporate Phone Number: 1-313-556-5000
 
GM Mailing Address
P.O. Box 33170
Detroit, MI 48232-5170
 
Most Sincerely
40yr + Wrench
DrVette

#75 of 89 Re: stalling and lights burn out [cocco] by drvette

Nov 25, 2011 (2:36 pm)

Replying to: cocco (Nov 01, 2011 8:06 pm)
Does the engine shudder prior to stalling, or just quit ?

Ignition modules often fail under heat and start up again upon cooling.
If yours just quits and restarts, I suspect fuel flow problems, however with your lighting issues, I do wonder.
If the engine shudders prior to stalling, I suspect a TCC [Torque Converter Clutch] issue, see previous post
 
Frequent Lamp failure usually occurs from one of four issues.

1. "Low-Voltage"
 an alternator is a 3-phase generator, it can show full voltage when lightly loaded yet drop drastically when fully loaded, one or two of the phases may be faulty.
Test:
Operate the fan on full, lights on bright, AC on, wipers, rear defroster EVERYTHING at one time,,, THEN check the voltage, should be no less than 13.1~
Low Voltage causes High Amps, High Amps causes excess Heat.
Also the battery cable to the starter & load centers is now copper coated aluminum, the one going to the starter/load center may expand and lose partial contact, usually in Hot weather, to fix, install new lug [soldered on].
 
2. "Poor Grounding"
Vehicles with front end wreck damage often have the ground connections on top of painted metal, on high demand times, these heat up ;and fail, temporarily.
 Very Hard to troubleshoot, look for new paint under ground lugs, rust, old paint, partially broken wires etc, also look for signs of heating in and under the fuse/breaker box.
You can run an alternative ground wiresdirectly to the battery for lighting to test..
Also the battery grounds to several points.
The Chassis, usually on the firewall.
The Engine Block, usually near the battery to save wire, check for corrosion, black buildup indicates long term failure & heat causing a non-conductive coating..
Modern battery cables are copper coated aluminum, these can heat up and lose partial contact when hot.
Colors that cause contact failures to look for are;
Green
Blue
Black
Amber
Rust
 
3. "Invisible Corrosion"
A term I coined regarding any failure to transmit voltage with no obvious reason.
Clean-Up shops spray Silicone Tire Shine all over the engine, Silicone is an enemy of very low voltage connections. A sharp eye can sometimes see the shiny and sometimes amber coating on connections.
New vehicles have "weather-pack" proof connections, Silicone can penetrate these and wreak havoc.
 
The fix, using a wire toothbrush, abrade and clean with Electra-Clean, top off with an electrical conductivity spray like CRC 2-26 or 5-56
READ THE DIRECTIONS AND ALLOW THE CRC TO DRY FULLY !!
 
On very low voltage connections, a simple skint place in the wire can cause corrosion & faillure. While working on a Roadmaster the Air Temp Sensor showed bad, a new one did not fix it.
A close inspection of the wire showed a very tiny break in the insulation, the copper wire was green causing the failure of the 5v device.
Electricity flows on the OUTSIDE of the wire surface, not the inside, this is why a small bit of corrosion on an otherwise solid connection can fail.
 
The signal voltages to your engine components can vary as low as 3.0vdc is why I made this mention.
 
4. High Voltage,
 a seldom problem however the voltage regulator in the alternator can go bad sending high voltage to components. The battery voltage indicator should indicate this but only during high engine speeds, usually while you're looking at the road. At idle it may show correct voltage, 14.0~
 
Bottom Line
1 Low Voltage, most likely culprit
2. Poor Grounds next
3. Invisible Corrosion
4. High Voltage
 
Fixing cars is a tedious and often maddening task, I feel for your wrench, however FAIL NOT to bite the bullet and take it to a reputable dealer before spending good money after bad..

 
I'm so sorry to be so wordy however this issue is multifaceted and required a more complete explanation.
 
DrVette

#76 of 89 Re: Similar issue [mountainboy1] by drvette

Nov 25, 2011 (2:43 pm)

Replying to: mountainboy1 (Sep 16, 2011 7:05 am)
See my test for shuddering transmission issues.
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f17eeed/73#MSG73

#77 of 89 Re: transmission flutter any more fixes???2008 cobalt [gpara] by drvette

Nov 25, 2011 (2:52 pm)

Replying to: gpara (Oct 11, 2011 2:23 pm)
See my test for shuddering transmission issues. Post No 74
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f17eeed/73#MSG73
 
Also note that GM Cust Ser is answering many of these postings, perhaps they'll institute a TSB [Technical Service Bulletin] for this issue.
 
Note, TSB's are unlike "Recalls" where the mfg contacts YOU.
YOU must contact THEM with a complaint to get resolution.
Also, depending upon the dealer/service writer, you may have to be aware of a TSB regarding your issue to force their hand.
 
DrVette

Messages Page 8 of 10

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