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Sedans Chevrolet Cobalt Chevrolet Cobalt Transmission Issues
39 messages, Last post on Oct 17, 2009 at 5:57 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Cobalt Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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I have sadly a 2005 chevy cobalt..keep in mind that as i list the problems that i deliver newspapers and I drive every day which for me adds up to 155,000 miles in 3 yrs 1.first thing that went wrong was the ignition module.. turns out that bosch plugs are destructive to a cobalt, they burn coil packs and modules out.. with ac delco i never have that problem... cost of replacement parts before knew what was wrong $900 2. front calipers not working..still have not figured this one out, although i will probably have to replace them.. estimated cost of repair $300 or so.. 3.because of problem #2 the car uses exclusivly back brakes which means that they (brake pads) wear faster, much much faster, so they wore down to the metal (without making a sound) and into the hub which now means that the hub is stuck on the car and the whole assembly had to be replaced repair cost $300 4.aluminum wheel studs on the car.. constant crossthreading constant replacement..finally changed them out for aftermarket metal studs.. replacemnt costs (all the aluminum studs i replaced plus the new (working) metal studs) $120 5.transmission went out at 147,000..reverse would not work at all..(out of warrenty btw) replacent transmission from the junk yard and paying my help) $930 6. new transmission works fine most of the time but when it gets hot it shifts badly from 1-2.. thought it was leaking fluid so i have added fluid alot maybe as much as 25 quarts i hope the overfill works  now i think it has a line stopped up somewhere since when i let it cool down it quits bucking going into 2nd gear.. i think the new transmission fluid i added cooled down the old fluid making it look like i was actually fixing something.. 7. battery cable with a bare spot touching the frame.. ( 1 week ago) after shorting out the alternator, destroying the computer and reprogramming the new one repair costs $1100 8. sputter when in park.. carbon buildup in the throttle body $5 for spray cleaner and constant trips to the dealership, it was not a computer problem so they did not have a clue btw (very pissed that they can't repair a car without a diagnostic computer like a real mechanic) 9. gasket around heater core went bad thus flooding my passenger side with condensation 1/2 inch deep in the floor board --this one was free since at the time it was under warrente 10. shocks all the way around need replaced.. i carry alot of weight in the car (newspapers--almost 1000 a day) estimated cost for repair $500 11.door locks started locking and unlocking by themselves and door unlocker button no longer works (remote keyless entry device) i removed the fuse from the box and now unlock and lock by hand $35 for the lock switches ( which btw i have not had a chance to replace yet) who knows whats wrong here 12. and best of all my mechanic charges 100 per hour for repairs.. and im so through with the dealership.. never again final thoughts... always disconnect the negative from the battery first.. never test the alternator by removing the positive cable while it is running.. gm has rigged the alternator to self destruct if you try this..lastly my new car (i can't trade in my old car without a massive hit since it has so many miles) will be a honda or a toyota or nissan.. if the american cars were better made i would consider but since they are not and since i actually want a dependable car im going with a rice burner . no wonder their stocks are going in the toilet total repair costs thus far after 3 yrs $4,240.00 and clumbing (door locks and transmission still messed up 
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Replying to: paperboy_1 (Oct 13, 2008 11:55 am) 
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Replying to: okko1 (Oct 13, 2008 3:09 pm) when i changed out the transmission the shifter got stuck (which is a common problem for a cobalt so i had to force it out of park which in turn broke something in the shifter case who knows how much that one will cost and at the same time the key got stuck in the ignition and will not come out, yet another problem with the cobalt... im sure the two are related problems... safety switch i think.. sure this fix will be several hundred dollars and no i got the cheese 3 yrs ago, it comes standard with the cobalt.. thanks anyway 
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I had my new 08 for less than a month and my wife ran over something on the way home. It bent bottom of Radiator up which pulled the metal from the plastic at the ends. Long story short.....I replaced the radiator but I know I lost a bit of tranny fluid in the swap. The 08 does not have a tranny stick and in the booklet it says the dealership has to do any tranny fluid changing or checking. Anybody have any ideas? I live over a hundred miles from my dealership and am real busy and do most of the maintainence on my own vehicles so I hope someone has an answer.
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 I had my new 08 for less than a month and my wife ran over something on the way home. It bent bottom of Radiator up which pulled the metal from the plastic at the ends. Long story short.....I replaced the radiator but I know I lost a bit of tranny fluid in the swap. The 08 does not have a tranny stick and in the booklet it says the dealership has to do any tranny fluid changing or checking. Anybody have any ideas? I live over a hundred miles from my dealership and am real busy and do most of the maintainence on my own vehicles so I hope someone has an answer.
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Replying to: justinpe (Nov 02, 2008 7:31 pm) |
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Replying to: justinpe (Nov 02, 2008 7:31 pm) To check the level. Locate the hex head plug near the pan, about 1.5" from the bottom of the transmission. This is the ATF level checking plug and is located near the passenger tire. With the engine idling while the car is on a level surface, the ATF should be level with the plug hole. Also, the engine/transmission should be at normal operating temps to check proper ATF level. WARNING!!! With the engine off, removing the level check plug will drain about 3-4qts of ATF. Of course this feature could come in handy for those wishing to do some partial drain and fills. I've done several of these and it's not as hard as some think or suggest.
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Replying to: cmhj2000 (Nov 03, 2008 11:30 am) In the photo section of this group is a picture of our auto tranny. Pretty simple once you know where everything is at and have the basis instructions, which I posted above.. http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Lubricators-r-us/ |
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the cobalt 2005 transmission is sealed, but , the transmission is equipped with an overflow screw, which basically means that if you over fill it, the overflow will just come out .. this is located on the back passenger side of the transmission..the overfill comes out and runs down onto the the pan where it drips onto the ground ( while the car is being driven) from there , so do not mistake a leaking pan for a simple overfill... btw the cobalt holds empty to full 7 quarts of trans fluid...if you over fill it , not to worry the excess will come out and stop when the correct fill level is achieved also of course the book says take it to a dealer..gm and the dealers have teamed up on car repairs so the dealer can make more money by repeat visits..gm has designed the cobalt to be harder to work on on purpose lastly, no need to go hunting down the overflow screw.. it releases the overflow automatically
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Replying to: paperboy_1 (Nov 04, 2008 3:37 am) Sounds like most cars on the market nowadays. |
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