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300C: Power Window shanannigans

13 messages,  Last post on Oct 19, 2009 at 3:21 PM

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#7 of 13 Heater core problems by dogman8 Oct 03, 2008 (10:27 am)
I reported yesterday about a heater core leak on my 06 300C that is just over three years old and has just over 26000 miles on it. I placed it with the power window problem first, so this core thing might not otherwise be picked up by those of you knowing of similar problems. It is at my local dealer getting replaced today. They confirmed that the smell and fogging could only be from that source. The better news is that the book only calls for 1.6 hrs for the job. That with the part will keep the replacement under $500. Luckily I checked that this price was absolute, as turns out, it did not include the time for draining and re-chargeing the A/C system, which is apparently necessary. It has been my previous experience that changing heater cores is a real bear of a job, taking several hours at best. That would be $$$. As it turns out, apparently the designers got this one right. It is relatively easy to get to this one and the replacement part is under $200. I am anxious to see the old part and try to determine why it failed so soon. This kind of problem is normally reserved for Much older vehicles. I'm sure its just a pin-hole, but none the less, it does require an immediate fix. I'll report further on the later details of this and the R/R window repair. Replies to this message: mzmoniquerenee (Oct 03, 2008 7:31 pm)
#8 of 13 Re: Heater core problems [dogman8] by mzmoniquerenee Oct 03, 2008 (7:31 pm)
Replying to: dogman8 (Oct 03, 2008 10:27 am) Sorry to hear that issues was not covered by the warranty. I had a problem with my rear window's sticking in the hot climate I live in Central Florida. The issue was not mechanical or electrical. Let me know how everything turns out.     Curious!
#9 of 13 follow-up to message # 7 on heater core and window by dogman8 Oct 04, 2008 (10:44 am)
The dealer had my car all day yesterday to do what was supposed to be a 1.6 hour heater care replacement. That part wound up taking over five hours. Finding the problem with the window added to that. My car wasn't ready until 6:30 PM. I paid only the quoted price for the core job, but the bill still came to $549. A lot of $, but lots better than it could have been. The window didn't get fixed due to no part. They said it was a bad regulator, but that when they put the door panel back on, it apparently jiggled the wiring so that the window started working again ??? I don't understand how "jiggling the wires" would make a "bad" regulator start working again. It sounds more like a bad electrical connection that made better contact after the door panel was snapped back into place. We are currently having the first rain storm in many months, so I don't want to take a chance of lowering the window and not being able to close it. Service manger said that it might work for a little while but stop again at any time. When I asked what I should do if the thing quit again with the window down, he showed me where to pound on the inside of the door panel to get it going again. They will want about $300 to fix that. I don't know, but I'm still thinking loose connection. I just don't get how pounding gets a broken/bad regulator to work again ??? I think its possible that the dealer might be trying to replace parts that only need the electrical connection fixed. Perhaps to get more work going into their shop in these hard times ? It is something to think about. There are some dealers in the greater area that have already closed their doors due to the slow economy. I hate to think that they are getting that desperate, but I am going to investigate further... I'll keep you posted. Replies to this message: vic10 (Oct 07, 2008 4:51 pm) mzmoniquerenee (Oct 08, 2008 6:32 am)
#10 of 13 Re: follow-up to message # 7 on heater core and window [dogman8] by vic10 Oct 07, 2008 (4:51 pm)
Replying to: dogman8 (Oct 04, 2008 10:44 am) The left rear window on my '05 300C would stick closed on hot days. I found I could sort of prevent this by tapping the window switch open in the morning, when it was cooler. Just taking it off the stop. Seemed to work. But eventually took it to the dealer who replaced the motor and regulator assembly, PN 5065473AC. That was in July '06. Has worked perfectly since (at least till I sold the car in April of this year.....)
#11 of 13 Re: follow-up to message # 7 on heater core and window [dogman8] by mzmoniquerenee Oct 08, 2008 (6:32 am)
Replying to: dogman8 (Oct 04, 2008 10:44 am) I had the same issue with the rear window on the left and right. For some reason I never had a problem with the front window. live in Florida and it usually it is about 110 degrees or higher in my car between 11a - 5:30p so the windows would stick. That was about a year ago. No problem for some reason this summer. I
#12 of 13 JOHN by jloiacono Aug 24, 2009 (10:52 am)
I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THE AUTO UP ON MY 06 300 C. THE DEALER WAS GOING TO ORDER NEW WINDOW MODULES. DEALER WENT OUT OF BUSINESS. SOMEBODY ON THIS SITE SAID TO HOLD THE SWITCH IN THE UP POSITION FOR A FEW SECONDS. IT WORKED. I HAVE AN 09 300 C NOW--HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THE DRIVERS WINDOW. HOLDING THE SWITCH IN THE UP POSITION DOESN'T WORK. I'LL HAVE TO GO BACK TO THE DEALER.
#13 of 13 Re: 300C: Power Window shanannigans [greyfox1] by maryk5 Oct 19, 2009 (3:21 pm)
Replying to: greyfox1 (Feb 10, 2008 1:08 pm) Where do you find the bulletins, I have been searching for an issue I am having with my 2007 chrysler 300 where the engine revs up or slows down almost to a stall then straightens out. I am now in my extended warranty and they can't find it. It cost me $100 today for the extended warranty deductible to know nothing more after leaving. Frustrated. Mary

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