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Sedans Chrysler 300/300C/300C SRT-8 300C: Power Window shanannigans
13 messages, Last post on Oct 19, 2009 at 3:21 PM
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Replying to: jloiacono (May 10, 2008 7:51 pm) |
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I have an 06 300C that I purchased new in Aug 05 with only 26000 miles on it. Generally love it, but the R/R window quit working. Luckily its in the "up" position. The switch on the drivers door and the switch on the R/R door do nothing. What will be involved in fixing this ? I'm two months out on the 3 year part of the warranty. I also think the heater core started leaking. On an otherwise warm and dry evening the windshield fogged up when I started the engine. I had driven about 150 miles, stopped for dinner then was about to return home when the problem occurred. During the return trip, the interior of the car became quite warm, humid and smelled of radiator fluid. I have experienced this problem before, but only on MUCH OLDER cars. And it turned out to be a leaking heater core that was a real bear to get at. Anyone else had premature failures like this on their relatively new 300C's ?
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Replying to: dogman8 (Oct 02, 2008 9:40 am) In regards to a heater core failure on a 3 yr old car, that is very discouraging. I have not heard of this behavior on Chrysler 300s, but it might be worth starting a new thread focusing on heater cores - and see who responds. Hidden within the power window thread it might mask an otherwise bigger problem. Heater cores are horrible because 1) they're so difficult to typically get at and 2) they really smell up the car and ventilation. |
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I reported yesterday about a heater core leak on my 06 300C that is just over three years old and has just over 26000 miles on it. I placed it with the power window problem first, so this core thing might not otherwise be picked up by those of you knowing of similar problems. It is at my local dealer getting replaced today. They confirmed that the smell and fogging could only be from that source. The better news is that the book only calls for 1.6 hrs for the job. That with the part will keep the replacement under $500. Luckily I checked that this price was absolute, as turns out, it did not include the time for draining and re-chargeing the A/C system, which is apparently necessary. It has been my previous experience that changing heater cores is a real bear of a job, taking several hours at best. That would be $$$. As it turns out, apparently the designers got this one right. It is relatively easy to get to this one and the replacement part is under $200. I am anxious to see the old part and try to determine why it failed so soon. This kind of problem is normally reserved for Much older vehicles. I'm sure its just a pin-hole, but none the less, it does require an immediate fix. I'll report further on the later details of this and the R/R window repair.
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Replying to: dogman8 (Oct 03, 2008 10:27 am)  Curious!
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The dealer had my car all day yesterday to do what was supposed to be a 1.6 hour heater care replacement. That part wound up taking over five hours. Finding the problem with the window added to that. My car wasn't ready until 6:30 PM. I paid only the quoted price for the core job, but the bill still came to $549. A lot of $, but lots better than it could have been. The window didn't get fixed due to no part. They said it was a bad regulator, but that when they put the door panel back on, it apparently jiggled the wiring so that the window started working again ??? I don't understand how "jiggling the wires" would make a "bad" regulator start working again. It sounds more like a bad electrical connection that made better contact after the door panel was snapped back into place. We are currently having the first rain storm in many months, so I don't want to take a chance of lowering the window and not being able to close it. Service manger said that it might work for a little while but stop again at any time. When I asked what I should do if the thing quit again with the window down, he showed me where to pound on the inside of the door panel to get it going again. They will want about $300 to fix that. I don't know, but I'm still thinking loose connection. I just don't get how pounding gets a broken/bad regulator to work again ??? I think its possible that the dealer might be trying to replace parts that only need the electrical connection fixed. Perhaps to get more work going into their shop in these hard times ? It is something to think about. There are some dealers in the greater area that have already closed their doors due to the slow economy. I hate to think that they are getting that desperate, but I am going to investigate further... I'll keep you posted.
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Replying to: dogman8 (Oct 04, 2008 10:44 am) |
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Replying to: dogman8 (Oct 04, 2008 10:44 am)  For some reason I never had a problem with the front window. live in Florida and it usually it is about 110 degrees or higher in my car between 11a - 5:30p so the windows would stick. That was about a year ago. No problem for some reason this summer. I
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| I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THE AUTO UP ON MY 06 300 C. THE DEALER WAS GOING TO ORDER NEW WINDOW MODULES. DEALER WENT OUT OF BUSINESS. SOMEBODY ON THIS SITE SAID TO HOLD THE SWITCH IN THE UP POSITION FOR A FEW SECONDS. IT WORKED. I HAVE AN 09 300 C NOW--HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THE DRIVERS WINDOW. HOLDING THE SWITCH IN THE UP POSITION DOESN'T WORK. I'LL HAVE TO GO BACK TO THE DEALER. | |
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Replying to: greyfox1 (Feb 10, 2008 1:08 pm) |
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