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Vans & Minivans Honda Odyssey Honda Odyssey Alignment Problems
87 messages, Last post on Oct 30, 2009 at 7:49 AM
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| I had the #2 post. On my trip from AZ to Colorado today, I still notice pulling to the left, even with a very strong side wind coming from the left. Is pulling to the left a trend in all the above posts? My dealer in Des Moines suggested that more miles on the tires might make some difference- I am at 5000 miles now and still feeling the pull to the left even after an alignment at 500 miles. I am taking print outs of all the above posts to my service department next week. Is there anything in the Honda database about the "strut issue" that the above posts reference to? | |
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Replying to: dvhagan (May 08, 2008 1:27 pm) What do you think of the brakes, I've had an 07 now this 08 and find them abnormally soft and have got an open case on this with Honda in Torrance, CA. They give me a scare each time used in an emergency stop.
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Replying to: tcunningham2 (May 08, 2008 2:30 pm) |
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Replying to: tcunningham2 (May 08, 2008 2:30 pm)
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Replying to: dvhagan (May 08, 2008 3:28 pm) |
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Replying to: kids_van (May 07, 2008 12:06 pm) |
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4th time to dealer last week and met with Regional Honda Rep with full intentions of droping a few "lemon law" references. Went for a long ride and they were trying to tell me that the car was running as designed. Once back in the shop, they looked at the alignment and found it was out of alignment with respect to the "toe". Although steering wheel now points to 11:00 the car seems to drive straight. I am waiting to see if the alignment will hold before completely determining that the issue is resolved. But for now, it appears to be better.
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Replying to: giantman (May 19, 2008 10:51 am) Keep us posted...I want my car to drive straight and I want my steering wheel to be straight. There must be something very wrong if the steering wheel has to be crooked to have the car drive straight. My appointment with the Regional Honda Rep was pushed back a few days. I will post the results of that visit when it is done.
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Replying to: cr40 (May 19, 2008 2:36 pm) Im still having pulling & steering issues and are afraid of being jerked around by my dealership but 100% agree with you that for 26000 dollars i should have a van that drives straight.my 2007 odyssey has less than 10000 miles and i cannot believe this is happening to so many odyssey owners... how did you make out with the reg rep...have you any advice for me before i go to the dealer and become annoyed and what area's of the lemon law does this cover??
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Replying to: mikesing (Jun 04, 2008 5:10 pm) Find the tire company equipped with HUNTER GSP9700 machine. This machine can detect this problem by perform a test called "Road Force" http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/images/flash/gsp9710/allmovies.cfm Locate GSP9700 http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/search/findgsp9700.cfm Below is detailed explanation CONICITY When the belts are positioned as a tire is being built, they must be almost perfectly centered. According to some sources, if the belts are off center by more than one millimeter, it may be enough to cause a steering pull in some applications (some tires and/or vehicles are more sensitive to this kind of problem than others). The position of the outermost belt is the most important because it has the greatest effect on the directional stability of the tire. A tire with an off-center belt will lead to one side because the location of the belt shifts more weight to one side of the tread than the other. This condition is known as a "conicity" problem, and occurs because the tire behaves as it if were cone-shaped. A cone always rolls in a circular path towards the pointed end. A conicity pull will therefore always be directional (either to the left or right), and can be reversed by switching the front tires from side to side, or by mounting the offending tire backwards on the rim. Conicity problems can also arise when the beads are not in the same plane. The resulting difference in sidewall height and loading will create the same unbalanced steering forces that make the tire want to roll towards the shorter side. Conicity problems are usually most noticeable on the front wheels, but may affect tracking and induce some rear axle steer on vehicles with independent rear suspensions. Vehicles with less caster also seem to be more sensitive to conicity probably because high caster angles have a stabilizing effect on the steering. If you're trying to diagnose a steering pull and suspect a tire may have a conicity problem, rule out the other possibilities first. Check inflation pressure in both front tires and make sure it is equal on both sides. Low pressure can cause a pull towards the side with less pressure. Compare tire sizes and tread wear on both sides. Measure tread wear, too, because the steering will pull towards the side with the "shorter" tire (the one with the most tread wear). Also, check ride height and make sure it is within specs and is equal on both sides. The steering will usually pull towards the low side. Check for brake drag. A frozen or sticky caliper can cause a pull towards the side that's dragging. Next, switch the left and right front tires to see what effect it has on the steering. If the steering still pulls in the same direction, the problem isn't the tires. Check for camber or caster misalignment, or the presence of a rear axle thrust angle. If the direction of the pull is now reversed, one or both front tires may have a conicity problem. The next step would be to swap the front and rear wheels on one side (right or left) to see if it eliminates the pull. No change would tell you it's the other front tire that's causing the problem. Swapping the other front tire to the rear should eliminate the problem as long as the offending tire remains in the rear. But if somebody rotates the tires later on and the bad tire ends up back in the front again, the steering pull will return. Replacing the offending tire will get rid of the problem altogether, and may be necessary if the tire causes problems in the rear, too. Another way to reduce the effects of a conicity problem is to increase the inflation pressure of the tire. But the tradeoff may be a harsher ride and increased center wear in the tread. VIBRATIONS Though vibrations are usually caused by an out-of-balance wheel and tire assembly, it's important to remember that vibrations can also be caused by excessive radial (vertical) and lateral (sideways) runout in the tire, wheel or hub. Loose, worn or damaged wheel bearings as well as certain kinds of tread wear can also cause annoying vibrations. When troubleshooting the cause of a vibration problem, start by inspecting the wheels. Look for evidence of missing weights, mud or dirt packed in the back of the rim or debris embedded in the tread that could create an imbalance. Also, rotate and wiggle each wheel by hand to check for excessive play or noise from the wheel bearings. If a vehicle has alloy rims (particularly a performance or sports type vehicle), tire slippage on the rim may have thrown the assembly out of balance. This can happen if a long-lasting lubricant such as silicone is applied to the rim or tire bead when the tires are mounted. Under hard acceleration or braking, the tire may actually rotate slightly on the rim. The cure? Remove the wheels, put the wheel and tire on your tire machine and break loose both beads. Thoroughly clean both mating surfaces, then reinflate the tire to reseat the beads and rebalance the assembly. If the radial cords in the sidewalls of a tire are not spaced evenly or are damaged, it can create a "waddle" or vibration due to force variations in the stiffness of the sidewall as the tire rotates. This condition, which is referred to as "loaded runout," is most noticeable at low speed (5 to 30 mph), and may also appear as ride roughness at highway speeds (50 to 70 mph). A Tire Problem Detector may help you diagnose this kind of problem. This device has a roller that can be positioned under a tire so you can check for spindle movement while rotating the tire slowly with the weight of the vehicle pressing down on it. Another source of vibration can be uneven tread wear. Run your hand across the tread in both directions. If one way feels rougher than the other (like toe wear), lack of rotation may have caused a heel-and-toe or sawtooth wear pattern to develop on the tread blocks. This kind of wear is most often found on the rear tires of front-wheel drive cars. The wear may be barely perceptible to the naked eye, but is rough enough to produce an annoying vibration at medium to high speeds that feels like a bad wheel bearing. Rotating the tires once this kind of wear has developed is a waste of time because it takes too many miles to scrub off the uneven wear. New tires would be recommended. Scalloped wear on a tire would tell you the tire is bouncing as it rolls along because it is out-of-balance, out-of-round or the shocks are weak. Be sure to measure tread depth, too. Measuring tread depth at several points around the circumference of the tire will tell you if the tread is wearing evenly and if the depth is equal. A difference of more than about 1/16th inch (.0625 inches) would indicate an out-of-round condition. Most tires should probably
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