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2009 Subaru Forester

3669 messages, Last post on Dec 09, 2009 at 9:48 AM
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Replying to: ecotrklvr (Oct 24, 2009 4:32 pm) Spend $800 or so less to begin with. CR got 25 mpg vs. 22 mpg for the automatic, despite what EPA lab tests say the MT5 wins in the real world. And...it's quicker. A new clutch is a few hundred, a new automatic is a few thousand. Having said all that my wife got an automatic - she really wanted the Limited and that's the only way it comes. |
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If I were buying one, I'd absolutely get the manual transmission -- and that's not to say that the automatic is "bad", it's just that there's truly no substitute for having a true manual transmission. All of my cars have had manual transmissions, but for my most recent purchase (an 05 Honda Element) I decided to go with an auto-trans because an AWD Element with a manual transmission is nearly impossible to come by around here (pre-owned, anyways). Every time I get in my Element, I regret not holding out until I found a manual transmission model...and I LOVE everything else about the car, but have grown to hate the 4sp auto transmission. It drives me crazy in the mountains, although around town it's not too bad. Both of my Subarus that I owned previously had manuals and were fun to drive -- and the benefit (I believe) of having the 50:50 default split of the AWD was preferable to me over the 90:10 split of the auto Subarus. And, as already mentioned, most evidence suggests much better fuel economy with the manual transmission. Advice? Buy the manual Forester... |
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Just got this email from Subaru: During a quality review, we discovered that under certain severe driving patterns, such as high speed highway/uphill driving and/or accelerating with high engine revolutions, the efficiency of your vehicle’s catalytic converter may begin to degrade beyond design parameters. (The “Check Engine” light will illuminate to alert you if the catalytic converter efficiency has degraded beyond an acceptable level and if your vehicle may be releasing air pollutants that exceed Federal or California emission standards.) To prevent this condition, Subaru has developed a modification to the Engine Control Module software logic that will improve management of the catalytic converter. This software change will not adversely affect the performance of your vehicle. WHAT WE ARE ASKING YOU TO DO PROMPTLY We suggest that you schedule an appointment with your Subaru dealer as soon as possible to have your vehicle’s Engine Control Module software reprogrammed. The approximate time to perform this update is 40 minutes. However, it may be necessary for you to leave your car for a longer period on the day of your scheduled appointment to allow your dealer flexibility in scheduling other appointments. Your Subaru dealer will perform this repair at no cost to you.
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Replying to: pharmd718 (Oct 31, 2009 12:44 pm) Doesn't sound urgent... Any ideas on what the reprogramming will consist of? I think I'll wait until I know more about it. Hopefully including input from this forum. Bill
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Replying to: billwv (Oct 31, 2009 7:28 pm)
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Replying to: kurtamaxxxguy (Oct 31, 2009 8:35 pm) "Service Program WVM-23 (2006 - 2009 Legacy / Outback or 2008 - 2010 Forester 2.5L with PZEV) " bill
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Replying to: billwv (Nov 01, 2009 6:55 am) |
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I have had the rattle in the cargo taken care of, both door rattles as well. My next trip will be to replace the sunroof headliner track as the liner rattles. I also have a ticking in the wind deflector and some other rattle I can not identify overhead. I am extremely disappointed with the quality of these materials. Most of all, the armrest is loose and all the parts creak, squeak and rattle especially when I put my arm on it.. I have foam stuffed all over and it just does not work. I am going to request a new storage console on my next visit. The service department at Colonial has been very cooperative and is trying, however they did not build the car. Any suggestions or other rattles to look out for? In addition, I just got a recall E mail . Thank You
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Replying to: birdboy (Nov 01, 2009 3:41 pm) I suspect part of the reason for the rattles is due to the rigidity of the car's structure. Vibrations pass through such structures more efficiently, so they essentially find the weakest link and viola; there is your rattle! Not that this is an excuse for mediocrity with interior build quality, it just means they need to step up the performance of the connectors and dampeners they use to attach everything. |
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Replying to: billwv (Nov 01, 2009 6:55 am) |
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