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Wagons Subaru Crew Subaru Forester 2009 Subaru Forester
3640 messages, Last post on Nov 19, 2009 at 3:06 PM
You are in the Subaru Forester Forum. Your Host is kcram
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Replying to: ateixeira (Dec 04, 2008 12:39 pm) Liquid Wrench and a few other companies make this, usually sold at Home Depot and other builder supply stores. Wrt the Nokian WRG2's, they seem to be doing fine. Pressure is 34 front, 32 rear (PSI). They've definitely made the XT's ride less harsh on small bumps, and seem to grip the road better. So far the front doors, with vibration supression insulation added by the dealer under warranty, have stayed quiet.
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Replying to: xwesx (Dec 04, 2008 8:33 am) Jim
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Replying to: volkov (Dec 04, 2008 12:12 pm) My Subaru will warm up well in two miles, my chrysler takes 6 miles at highway speeds. Jim
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Replying to: w8ifi (Dec 04, 2008 7:09 pm) 
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Replying to: w8ifi (Dec 04, 2008 7:15 pm) I have had my 2009 Forester 2.5X 4AT for three months, now. I love this car -- best car I have ever had -- no problems, so far. I have been reading the forum with interest. One question I have is: When you are refering to the engine being "warmed up", are your refering to the blue light going out or some other criteria. Here in West Virginia winters are not nearly as severe as many of you are describing, yet, the cold weather effects are quite noticable. Thanks for your comments. I have learned alot from these forums. Bill West Virginia
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Replying to: billwv (Dec 05, 2008 8:42 am)  In my experience, the engine can warm up at different rates than the rest of the car. In terms of engine operating efficiency, the blue light turning off is a good indicator that the engine is warmed. But, in very cold weather, accessories and drivetrain components, like the transmission and differentials, could take longer to warm as it is all based on heat-by-friction. The more they turn, the more the fluids warm, but the colder it is, the more heat is required to warm them to normal operating temperature. The parasitic loss on the engine is all a matter of the fluid viscosity (resistance to movement). Therefore, the lower the viscosity of a fluid at a given temperature, the less energy will be used to move that component. In a differential or transmission especially, that translates to more energy at the wheels. When choosing fluids for a vehicle, you want to go with the fluid that will give the best protection at the lowest viscosity within a given ambient temperature range. Fluids that work best at extremely cold temperatures are not likely the ones that would provide the best protection at extremely high temperatures (typically >100F), so I would not likely put the same fluids in my car here in Fairbanks, Alaska as I would in, say, Florida.
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Replying to: xwesx (Dec 05, 2008 9:04 am)
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Replying to: volkov (Dec 05, 2008 11:14 am) All automatics are winterized here with a pan heater on the transmission. Manuals are not, as the fluid can (should) be swapped out with an appropriate gear oil. Amsoil universal ATF has the best cold-weather properties I have found, but even it will get very gummy at -50F (according to the temperature ratings - I have not experienced those temps with the Amsoil yet), but at least it is still quite fluid at -30F, which is a far more common winter temperature here than -50! |
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Replying to: kurtamaxxxguy (Dec 04, 2008 4:57 pm) |
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Replying to: xwesx (Dec 05, 2008 8:34 am) One real cold night I went into my dad's garage and found a can of mobil one and a can of ten thirty. the 10-30 wouldn't pour and the mobil one poured slowly like molasses. fun days...... Jim |
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