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Wagons Subaru Crew Subaru Forester 2009 Subaru Forester
3640 messages, Last post on Nov 19, 2009 at 3:06 PM
You are in the Subaru Forester Forum. Your Host is kcram
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Replying to: w8ifi (Dec 03, 2008 9:16 pm) Currently, I am driving an old '98 Ford Escort w/ MT. I put Amsoil 0w-30 in this car as well, but the owner's manual states this car uses ATF in its manual transmission (?!).... seems odd, but I did not take the time to verify this and/or switch fluids. There is no heater on the transmission, and at temps as "warm" as -20F, the transmission is so gummy that it is difficult to maneuver the gear shifter. I went from an average economy of 35 this summer to as low as 24.5 (average for November) so far this winter. For my 1998 Dodge minivan, it was achieving mileage of about 15 mpg last winter with amsoil engine oil and Chrysler ATF+3 transmission fluid. This winter, with the same engine oil and Amsoil synthetic universal transmission fluid, it is running 16.5 to 17. What's more, that is with my wife driving it almost exclusively this winter, and she usually gets about 1 mpg less than I do as a result of driving habits. Last winter, I was the primary driver. 
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Replying to: w8ifi (Dec 03, 2008 9:16 pm) For me, the first 2 miles are so are all about warm up, so on a 4 mile drive that means you're engine isn't being efficiently at least half the time. I drove our Forester last night, fully warmed up, and zero'd the trip meter to see how high I could get. I was going 55 or so, drafted a truck for a little bit, and coasted down hill when I could, and was able to hit 36.0mpg, my personal record. That's not practical all the time, plus it didn't include the warm up, but so far on that tank we're getting about 26 mpg or so, so it's the warm up and the less efficient driving techniques the rest of the time costing us that 10mpg. |
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Replying to: w8ifi (Dec 03, 2008 9:16 pm) I remember an instant improvement in FE when I switched to synthetic in the old WRX.
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I missed a bunch, too busy at work. Let's see, people asked about reliability, well I got good news from TrueDelta, that web site that registers VINs of actual vehicles and tracks reliability as things happen, and they actually said the 2009 Forester was a stand-out among new models this year. They singled out 2 of the best new cars, and it was one of them.  Kurt commented that the non-turbo engine was responsive, and I have to agree, in fact I've said that all along. volkov mentioned it was the higher compression (agreed) and that the gearing was the same in the 1st three gears. True, except the turbo has a taller final drive ratio. So effective gearing is taller on the turbo, another reason the non-turbo feels more responsive until the turbo spools up. As mentioned here, the Ltd model does have the power seat. So as you step up among the naturally aspirated models, you get a lot of the content of the XT. One thing you don't get is the telescoping wheel, but the position is fine for both me and my wife, so we don't miss that. kurt: what do you mean by "dry lubricant" in post 2635? Just curious. TPMS saved us, too. It went off and sure enough, one tire had low pressure. I know some people complain and don't want to see more idiot lights, but this one is actually useful.
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Replying to: ateixeira (Dec 04, 2008 12:39 pm) Liquid Wrench and a few other companies make this, usually sold at Home Depot and other builder supply stores. Wrt the Nokian WRG2's, they seem to be doing fine. Pressure is 34 front, 32 rear (PSI). They've definitely made the XT's ride less harsh on small bumps, and seem to grip the road better. So far the front doors, with vibration supression insulation added by the dealer under warranty, have stayed quiet.
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Replying to: xwesx (Dec 04, 2008 8:33 am) Jim
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Replying to: volkov (Dec 04, 2008 12:12 pm) My Subaru will warm up well in two miles, my chrysler takes 6 miles at highway speeds. Jim
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Replying to: w8ifi (Dec 04, 2008 7:09 pm) 
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Replying to: w8ifi (Dec 04, 2008 7:15 pm) I have had my 2009 Forester 2.5X 4AT for three months, now. I love this car -- best car I have ever had -- no problems, so far. I have been reading the forum with interest. One question I have is: When you are refering to the engine being "warmed up", are your refering to the blue light going out or some other criteria. Here in West Virginia winters are not nearly as severe as many of you are describing, yet, the cold weather effects are quite noticable. Thanks for your comments. I have learned alot from these forums. Bill West Virginia
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Replying to: billwv (Dec 05, 2008 8:42 am)  In my experience, the engine can warm up at different rates than the rest of the car. In terms of engine operating efficiency, the blue light turning off is a good indicator that the engine is warmed. But, in very cold weather, accessories and drivetrain components, like the transmission and differentials, could take longer to warm as it is all based on heat-by-friction. The more they turn, the more the fluids warm, but the colder it is, the more heat is required to warm them to normal operating temperature. The parasitic loss on the engine is all a matter of the fluid viscosity (resistance to movement). Therefore, the lower the viscosity of a fluid at a given temperature, the less energy will be used to move that component. In a differential or transmission especially, that translates to more energy at the wheels. When choosing fluids for a vehicle, you want to go with the fluid that will give the best protection at the lowest viscosity within a given ambient temperature range. Fluids that work best at extremely cold temperatures are not likely the ones that would provide the best protection at extremely high temperatures (typically >100F), so I would not likely put the same fluids in my car here in Fairbanks, Alaska as I would in, say, Florida.
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