187 messages,
Last post on May 09, 2013 at 6:34 AM
You are in the
Buick LeSabre Forum.
What is this discussion about?
Buick LeSabre, Electrical, Sedan
#96 of 187 Re: 2000 buick lesabre wont turn [mddrj74]
by mddrj74
Jul 14, 2010 (7:21 am)
UPDATE:
I was tinkering with the vehicle this morning and found out that if I have the ABS box is unpluged. My horn issue seems to go away(It staying inguaged that is).
Also if someone could please tell me where the (PCM) is located. My haynes manual says "under the right side of the dash"
If someone could PLEASE be more specific of where there located I would be very grateful.
(REASON) To check the ground. I was reading something that was saying that a loose ground to the (PCM) would create a problem like that.
If anyone has any suggestions of something I could try anything and thank you again.
#97 of 187 Re: 2000 buick lesabre wont turn [mddrj74]
by mddrj74
Jul 15, 2010 (8:56 am)
Can someone PLEASE tell me where to fine the (BCM). Also if anyone has any information on what my buick is going through I would be very grateful.
--THANKS AGAIN--
#98 of 187 THROTTLE BODY
by srcitizen
Aug 04, 2010 (8:49 am)
#99 of 187 THROTTLE BODY
by srcitizen
Aug 04, 2010 (12:09 am)
When I had my old 1989 Buick Century, my local mechanic was always careful to clean the throttle body. I've had my 1995 Buick LeSabre with the same V-6 engine for 7 years, and my new mechanic has never cleaned it. It runs good, except I've dropped from 19mpg around town to 13mpg. I wonder if the throttle body needs regular cleaning?
#100 of 187 Re: THROTTLE BODY [srcitizen]
by imidazol97
Aug 04, 2010 (6:26 am)
First, I doubt it's the same engine. The leSabre is a 3800 Series II, I believe. The Century was a 3300 IIRC.
Lots of short trips, high AC usage, alcohol in fuel, and other things can lead to lower gas mileage. The gunk settled on the inside of the upper intake and on the throttle body doesn't affect the gas mileage; it may affect the idle quality and may cause throttle sticking when first moved after engine cools and throttle body shrinks.
I'd get a 20 Oz bottle of Techron for fuel system cleaning (not the injector cleaner version).
When fuel is about a quarter or lower, add the Techron, then add fuel. Use a good brand. You may sense a change in the motor's response to accelerator after 10-20 miles.
You might change gas stations and brand if you tend to frequent one particular station or brand. It's my opinion, not proven fact, that some get more alcohol in their fuel than others do. You might also try adding a fill of a name brand premium that claims extra good fuel cleaners to a tank that's got less than half full regular to give a better mix of cleaners in the gas. Mixing the two gives about a midgrade octane. These cars don't need 91-92 octane.
How are plugs and wires? Have plugs been changed in 40 K miles?
I'd suggest, if you do it yourself, taking out the MAF and gently cleaning it with a cleaner for MAFs sold at auto parts box stores (CRC is a company that makes the brand I have). Use an artist's brush hairs to wipe the two electrical wires that are very delicate.
The throttle body would need cleaned only if you have an uneven idle at times, or if when you start the car and go to mvoe the accelerator, it sticks until the first time you move it because the crud has thickened and is touching the throttle plate.
Have you taken the car on a normal speed highway drive and set the gas mileage readout and seen how well the mileage is doing? Using the gallons and the odometer to measure mileage is not as accurate.
My 98 and 03 will give 30-38 at 50-55 mph on level glacial plain roads out into the country. A slight increase in headwind or speed through the air reduces that. At 65 with no wind it will give 29-32.
Watch the coolant level in the reservoir. I believe your 95 through 2004 has upper intake and lower intake gaskets that may start seeping coolant. If it says Series II on the gray cover over the motor, then that's the case. If it had orange DexCool in it then it's more prone to seeps due to alleged interaction of DexCool with the nylon in the gasket.
Change your transmission fluid by draining and putting a new filter in if it hasn't been changed in 50-60K. I believe the original was supposed to go 100,000 miles under normal duty use, but I suggest the drain and fill earlier like 60K-70K. Do not let them sell you a flush where they run through a strong chemical and don't take the lower pan off. Just take off the lower pan, drain half the fluid which comes out, and add half new fluid. The cleaners in the new half fluid will not shock the things gooped in places like the flush will.
#101 of 187 THROTTLE BODY [imidazol97]
by srcitizen
Aug 04, 2010 (8:49 am)
This is just the kind of information I was looking for! The engine is the 3.8 liter version. I've been using the 87 octane gas, and sometimes I notice the gas pump says contains Ethanol. I never remember whether this is good for my engine or not. I think EXON gas is advertised to contain Techron, but I'll get a bottle to put in as you suggest. Please tell me that MAF is! The grey cover on the engine reads only "3800 Tuned Port Injection." No series mentioned.
I find it's been 2 years (13K miles) since I had the transmission serviced, and that was only a flush - guess it's time to get the fluid changed! I've had the car 7 years (56k miles!) and my maintenance record doesn't show the fluid/seal has ever been changed! 6 years and 43K on the plugs, and 6 years 38K on the wires - geez! I've got some things to try here. Thanks very much!
#102 of 187 98 buick lesabre a/c blower not working
by louisiana1
Aug 13, 2010 (10:06 am)
#103 of 187 98 buick lesabre a/c blower not working
by louisiana1
May 16, 2010 (1:06 am)
I have a problem with my 98 Buick Lesabre. Last Friday my blower just stop working with no warnings
all. It was working fine 2hrs prior. I put a brand new blower on it and the new one wouldn't come on. Since my old one was already off, i got it tested
Autozone. It spent like a champ. I checked all fuses and all of them lit up. I even check the ones on the passenger side and under the hood, they all tested positive. Later, I got a resistor off a used Buick and hooked it up and the blower still wouldnt work. Next, I got an a/c switch off a used Buick and still nothing. The blower still wouldn't blow. I've taken it 2 several mechanics and they're dumbfounded, they can't find out whats the problem. Im just tired of spending money and my problem isnt being fix. I'm in desperate need of help. Can you help me
#104 of 187 Re: 98 buick lesabre a/c blower not working [louisiana1]
by Brooksman
Jun 05, 2010 (4:04 pm)
We found if you whack the blower motor and it will start working, though after a while it quit all together. We ended up replacing it.
#105 of 187 Re: 98 buick lesabre a/c blower not working [louisiana1]
by bob252
Jun 24, 2010 (7:20 am)
Hi, maybe a silly response, but did anyone check the ground to the motor? you can test the ground or use a wire from the negative post of the battery...