Last post on Aug 12, 2013 at 8:04 PM
You are in the Buick LeSabre
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Buick LeSabre, Electrical, Sedan
#138 of 188 Re: jumper link in diagnostic connector [cockneyrebel]
Mar 20, 2010 (6:46 pm)
I do not know about a jumper in the assembly line diagnostic connector.
I remember a black tube near the battery but don't recall what it was.
What you really need is a Helm service manual for that year Buick LeSabre.
The cover will be like this.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1992-92-Buick-LeSabre-Shop-Service-Repair-Manual_- - W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem255967efacQQitemZ160413773740QQptZMotorsQ5fManualsQ5f- - Literature
I am not recommending any particular auction. I believe the manual actually is a two part set for 1993. But you are in need of a 1992. I did see one offer for an electrical manual for 1992 and that may be the other part.
Helminc.com is the official supplier and the cost will probably be $120-$135 there exclusive of shipping to UK.
Click on my user name for this post and you will see a box with my email in it. Send me a note and I'll suggest a couple of other help ideas for you.
#141 of 188 Whining sound underneath 96 Buick LeSabre
May 02, 2011 (3:51 pm)
#142 of 188 Whining sound underneath 96 Buick LeSabre
Aug 04, 2010 (10:13 pm)
I'm not a mechanic, but I've taken my car to some mechanics, and they're stumped. I hope someone here can help me get SOME idea of what the problem is, so I can print out the info and maybe it will help a local mechanic understand what's going on.
My 96 Buick LeSabre Custom has about 80,000 miles on it. Just got a new fuel pump in late 2009, and everything was going well until I hit a HUGE pothole. Immediately afterward, the right rear power window stopped working, and I started having problems with a weird whining coming from UNDERNEATH the car.
Here's what's going on:
* The whining can't be heard under the hood. ONLY underneath the car, but it gets so loud you can hear it in the cabin. It sounds like somebody is using a drill, and it gets louder as the motor gets hotter.
* One mechanic thinks it's the fuel pump. Another said that's impossible, because once the sound gets started, it will also happen when I turn the key just enough to roll down the power windows, and the fuel pump isn't even doing anything. It lasts as long as I have the key in the on position. The ones who think it's the fuel pump won't even bother trying to fix our car--they say some fuel pumps are just noisy. (Like our fuel pump would suddenly make noise, rather than being noisy from day one?)
* The sound isn't always there. It seems to get louder, the warmer the engine gets, and goes away when the car is cool. I have to drive 20-30 miles for it to start (maybe less if it's a hot enough day).
* One mechanic thought it was the AC compressor, but that's impossible because the sound will occur even if you don't use the AC or vent fan at all. I learned that the hard way, by driving 30 miles into town on a hot day with the windows rolled down.
* The sound increases, as the heat increases. So I can use the AC at night (when it's warm and humid), and there's no sound at all. However, if I drive during the day, the sound will start. If I use the vent fan, it will be louder. If I use the AC, that apparently really makes the car hot, because the whining gets intolerable. But the important fact that these local mechanics ignore is that I can use the AC with no problems during cooler weather, and the sound will also occur on a hot day without using the vent/AC at all, so it can't be a problem with the AC.
I'm disabled, and my elderly mother has health problems, and I'm very worried that we're going to get stranded between our rural hometown and the city where we have to do all our shopping. Neither of us could tolerate being stranded in the heat, waiting for AAA, so I've had to do all our shopping at night. We can't even make it to our doctor appointments, because we can't travel until dark.
So if anybody has any clue as to what this could be, it would really help. I'd rather just arrange to drive the car up in the evening, get a rental car, and leave the Buick at the mechanics, as I'm concerned about getting stranded during the day. But the car won't make the noise unless it's driven 20-30 miles, which no mechanic has time to do--so they can't hear the noise for themselves. I thought that maybe if you folks had some ideas, I could print them out, and maybe that would help a mechanic pinpoint the problem.
Thanks for any help you can provide!
Aug 05, 2010 (5:17 am)
The fuel pump turns on when you turn the key to ON, even if you don't start the car. BUT it quits running after 2-3 seconds, unless the motor is started.
Has someone looked at the underside of the car to see what was hit or twisted when you hit the pothole?
Does the whining speed up and down with the speed of the car? Or is it a constant?
Does the whining speed up or down with the speed of the motor in different gears?
Have you driven the car until it's hot and doing the noise and then stopped at the dealer to have them listen to the noise after the car is making it?
#144 of 188 Re: noise [imidazol97]
Aug 05, 2010 (7:52 pm)
To answer your questions....
When the car is making noise, I can turn the key to on, but the sound does not go off after a few seconds. It keeps making noise for as long as I leave it in the on position.
Nobody has looked at the underside of the car, much to my frustration. It's just, "You have a noisy fuel pump, that's all." Yet it was never noisy until I hit that pothole. IMHO these mechanics I've seen so far are just lazy, but that's another story.
The whining doesn't change with the speed of the car; it's constant. (Also, it has an automatic transmission, if that makes any difference.) The only thing is that it gets louder as time goes on. Unless I drive at night, when it's cooler outside, in which case the noise never starts at all--even when I use the AC.
Yes, I've taken the car to a mechanic when I was in the city, and the noise was really bad. They said it was the fuel pump, ran some test on it that cost about $16 (IIRC, they tested for fuel pressure, but I could be wrong), then said everything was fine. Uh...yeah. Right. LOL.
I have some further info that might be of help: I just had the fuel pump replaced in December 2009, because it just stopped working, leaving us stranded in a parking lot. I've seen videos on YouTube where a failing fuel pump sounds a lot like the noise under my car...like this video, except that the sound doesn't go up and down:
I hope this follow-up info is helpful, and thanks for your reply.
#145 of 188 Re: noise [rallyvee]
Aug 06, 2010 (4:35 am)
Your link doesn't go to a fuel pump, instead it gives a dune buggy doing a hill climb!
What happens when you turn the key to OFF. Does the sound quit?
I'm suspecting you might have a problem with the heater blower motor. It might be something rubbing on the fins of the squirrel cage that actually spins the air and forces it down the duct to go through the heater system. That is one thing that would be ON when the engine is NOT running.
The fuel pump should shut off when the engine is OFF. You can listen to your fuel pump but turning the key ON with the heater and accessories all turned off. You'll hear the fuel pump run for about 2 seconds. It will not continuously run unless there's a defect in the relay that operates it. It only runs to prime the pressure in the system. Everytime you turn the key back to ON it will run 2 seconds. After the engine cranks, the oil pressure switch turns on the fuel pump and keeps it running.
If your car has the option for self-leveling rear suspension, you have an air pump that puts pressure into the rear struts. It should run only when the pressure drops and the suspension goes low. When the key it turned to ON without starting the car, wait up to 40 seconds and you'll hear that pump start and run about 5 seconds to prime the air pressure. On your car I think, think, it's located under the right rear fender of the car. Have someone turn the key ON and go back by the fender and listen. It's a low, rough, cheap air pump sound. It sounds like a $10 compressor from Harbor Freight that plugs into the lighter plug to put air into my tires.
On the heater blower..., it is under the hood on the firewall behind the engine. Some owners have said the plastic around that area gets brittle from time and severe heat. You might have had that plastic deteriorate causing something to rub the fan blower. The blower is held in by 5 screws. It is difficult to reach behind the motor to take it out to check. Messing with the screws and taking it out may crack that plastic as well. Some folks have used varied nonflammable things to repair damage on that plastic region
#146 of 188 97 LeSabre location of fan relay (cooling radiator)
Oct 11, 2010 (7:32 am)
Hi, I hope Imadozol is reading, you have always been very acurate with these cars.althogh my car is an Olds LSS they are obviously the same. I posted saturday and can't find my post, so I will try again, as there is no info im my owners manual. Is this relay in the maxifuse center, or on the right side kick panel? and if you can tell this old man from right to left if in the maxi ctr. which of the four is it? or, inside the car from the top to the bottom. I got a code stating the relay is bad, and the fans don't turn on even when my "Inovia" reader is connected.Another thing the mice really love this car, as one commited suicide in it recently by getting itself decapitated by the control arm for the blend door, I found him by way of the beautiful fragrance, again thanks Bob. Or anyone else that can help so I can fix it before it creates another problem.