Last post on Oct 07, 2013 at 3:57 AM
You are in the Chrysler 300M
What is this discussion about?
Chrysler 300M, Transmission, Sedan
#24 of 45 Re: Transmission?? [bricad]
Mar 19, 2011 (11:10 am)
When your transmission (shifter) won't shift out of park to reverse it's because the shifter cable is lose/ off line. You need a shifter cable not a transmission.
#25 of 45 Re: Stuck in 1st gear [kkollios]
May 10, 2011 (7:17 am)
This is happening to now on my 2002 Chrysler 300m. Hard downshift to 2nd and the flickering interior and dash lights. Never would have thought the two things to be related. Did the flushing of the transmission solve the problem of downshifting?
#26 of 45 Re: Transmission Problems [groundlevel300]
Jun 16, 2011 (6:54 pm)
Ok so where is the speed sensor? I have a 01 300M and it will go into drive and then seconds later goes into what seems like neutral and if I give it some gas it goes back into drive again for a few more seconds, reverse does the same thing. is this a sensor or need tranny?
#27 of 45 Re: Transmission Problems [grevo26maxx]
Jun 17, 2011 (12:11 am)
It's neither it's just a shifter cable; believe it or not there is a belt call a shifter cable that allows you to shift from park, reverse, neutral to drive. Sometimes the shifter cable becomes damanged or loose if you spill soda or something into the area around your shifter.
#28 of 45 Re: Transmission Problems [burneyb]
Jun 17, 2011 (6:58 am)
what ? Huh? Why did you reply to my post. A cable has nothing to do with my issues?
#29 of 45 stuck in gear+safe mode
Jul 17, 2011 (6:02 pm)
In the summer of '10 I drove out from Michigan to Nevada in my '02 300M special. Ont he way back, 3 hours out of vegas my car went suddenly into 2nd gear and I could not get out. So I drove at 30 mph for a few miles to get to the next (luckily big) city in Utah. After spending 4 days there, the problem was fixed. It turned out to be the TCM. It was called safe mode as to why it stays in a low gear so as to prevent further damage to the tranny at higher speeds. We thought starting though the Grand Canyon had soemthing to do with it. After we were on our way the check engine light came on again but drove fine, the car was just not made to do that kind of travel I guess. I am also experiancing light flickering, even after not being touched in a few days, still trying to figure that out, I posted my problem as a reply in electrical.
#30 of 45 Re: stuck in gear+safe mode [bruhnska]
Jul 17, 2011 (6:03 pm)
Also called Limp-Mode
#32 of 45 Re: Transmission Problems [emmar]
Jul 19, 2011 (3:45 am)
There are alot of people having very much the same problems with the transmission going into limp-in mode etc. The first thing to consider (seemingly unrelated) , is that the transmission relies upon all of the sensors that are on the engine as well , to determine where & when to shift. The transmission is electronically controlled , which means that if your engine is not running properly or your electricals are not in good condition - you might have transmission problems as a result. The first thing moreover to consider are the connections to the battery (source) , they should be free of corrosion & not original. If they are old or bad , intermittent signals are sent to the PDC (Power Distribution Center) & passed on to the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) etc. , which can cause improper DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) as well. While all DTC's only point to the effected area - and never pinpoint the exact source for any code (according to the Chrysler Service Manuals) - even when using a DRB III testing unit. Even the DRB III cannot work correctly without a proper source battery & main connections (according to Chrysler & it's own manual).
Things like , vacuum leaks in the engine - can cause late or hard downshifting where the engine RPM's are lower than normal , where the gears almost miss meshing (then they clunk) - because the transmission is still spinning faster than what the engine is (they are out of synch) - when the shift occurs , and while the sensors are no longer able to send a proper signal to the onboard electronics. So ... more than ever - your car's battery/cables & engine components must be in good condition to expect the transmission to work correctly. You must also , change the transmission filter & O-ring (that goes onto the valve body in the transmission oilpan) - just as you would for your engine , every 50,000 miles/77,000 km. They are not expensive.
The primary cause of "check engine light" & other "flickering" of the instrument panel lights etc. - is caused by corroded aluminum battery post terminals & the "inline fuse link" on the positive battery cable. Which can be removed or replaced with a similar type fuse link (which is only a smaller portion of cable to disallow full current to overload the battery/PDC/PCM etc. combination) - and it can be discarded without any problem. After doing so - you will not have any instrument panel problems , or odd DTC's building up as a result of the intermittent power flow from the battery/alternator - charging system , etc. Otherwise , you could be replacing sensors until the wiring harness is capable of producing an increased efficiency within it's contents to make all sorts of DTC's or test findings/dashlights or symptoms - go away temporarily.
Basically , these things work just like new spark plugs that still don't make the engine stop missing or hard to start - because of the fact that the spark plugs wires (or coil packs & connections) are faulty. But , changing the spark plug type or gap etc. , could produce some temporary results in these areas if you don't consider the power flow to the spark plugs. Obviously , once you replace the spark plug wires or coil packs etc. , and the problem is gone for a long period (with the new spark plugs) - you have solved the problem , and not just altered it.
For example : If you were to remove an oxygen sensor from your exhaust , and you also had a faulty MAP sensor etc. as well , the electronics system can no longer calculate transmission & engine rpm's correctly - so "limp-in mode" is set as a result. Jumping to conclusions , with a bad battery/ terminals and cables , and/or engine component connections (ie: hoses), is the worst thing you can do.
I have solved these problems on my 2002 300M Special , simply by ensuring the battery/cables & connections were good by replacing them with steel battery terminals & new cables. Aluminum is a poor conductor at best - and after years of exposure to the elements - they will show intermittent continuity or none at all in some places (whereas the cables may also produce these fluctuations full time as well) - due to inner corrosion or metal fatigue. Any on and off or up and down fluctuations in current flow can cause all sorts of sensor/computer problems , which the transmission relies upon. Any time you have a diagnosis of sensor problems , it's best to consider the power flow (and the fact that the vehicle is not in full operating conditions while it is checked at idle) , prior to replacing any. There are some mechanics who will inconsiderately replace any sensor that a tester tells them has a problem with voltage etc. This is like replacing your home PC , or it's components , when the wall plug or the main power cable is in terrible condition or slightly faulty (having been outside for 10 years). Today's cars are now effected by these intracacies.
One sure way to test your battery posts/terminals & cables is to use a sensitive analog meter - and run the positive probe along the edges of surface , and note whether or not the meter needle swings from left to right while it is in a continuity mode. If it does at any point , you don't have constant continuity. As opposed to just setting the meter to the 50 volt range , and looking for 12 volts etc. , at any given single points. The connection should measure and have constant continuity at any point including the connections & surfaces. Inside an oxidized aluminum battery terminal clamp (where the connecting cables are soldered) - the cable is probably also oxidized (bad continuity). When NEW aluminum cables etc. are measured & tested - they will never show a loss of continuity. And if an analog tester can detect a fluctuation - then your car's computer will as well.
#33 of 45 Re: stuck in park [nixit1]
Aug 12, 2011 (1:30 pm)
The 300M transmission has a built-in (brake pedal) safety switch , incorporated into the shifter cable mount , on the top of the transmission - which requires specific measurements to "set" the cable for proper alignment. If the cable/brake pedal switch is incorrectly set , the transmission might not engage properly , or the brake pedal safety switch may cause a malfunction in the normal electronic detection operation status , when used. There is a specific measurement that must be followed when installing/adjusting the cable's set point. The shifter lock/setting is NOT seperate as some others are. This entire setup works as follows :
The cable itself shifts the transmission , but the switch is connected to the brake pedal , which must be pressed (safety feature) , or else the shifter release button will not unlock. When this incorporated setup is correctly set , you should test the shifter unlock button (front of shifter) , by attempting to move the shifter "without" pressing the brake pedal. If the shifter moves (without having pressed the brake pedal) - it is NOT set correctly , and a fault code may be recorded by the PCM as a result - or a short circuit could exist (lights flickering). When the incorporated cable/switch mount is set correctly , only when you have the brake pedal pressed (should the transmission come out of park).
As far as hard downshifting or like symptoms , there are some factors involved that pertain to the transmission filter/fluid and fill volume. Firstly , the original transmission filter is of a specific type (spring loaded felt) , and has a Chrysler emblem stamped onto it's metal casing. Any other filter may be inadequate or perform abnormally (not the same filtering material and no internal filter spring). Secondly , the proper transmission fluid must be used (MOPAR ATF+4) , which "is" red in colour when poured , but it also appears as "blue" in it's entirety (brown would be very overused or aftermarket fluid). According to the Chrysler Service Manuals & Owner's Manual , the fluid should be (4 quarts) , which is the amount required to reach 1/8" below the cold mark as suggested by the Service Manual as the correct replacement amount (volume of transmission oilpan). "If" you only replace 4 quarts of new fluid , you will find that the transmission will not operate correctly , and that in fact , 5 quarts or slightly more is necessary "if" you allow the transmission to fully drain dry (so that you can more effectively get a seal when you reapply the silicone to the oil pan gasket). There is no drain plug or hole in the transmission oilpan. Moreover , both the Service Manual and the Owner's Manual specifically state that the use of "other" types of transmission fluids are NOT recommended , and that more frequent fluid and filter changes will be required if you do. Also , that the use of transmission fluid additives is absolutely NOT recommended. Case in point also - is that the actual MOPAR transmission fluid container states that it's contents (chemical/oil properties) - are specifically designed and include additives that protect and promote proper operation of the transmission [meaning : any other ATF+4 fluid is NOT specifically tested or made with the same additives required for proper operation of the Chrysler transmission]. The MOPAR transmission fluid DOES contain additives not found in all ATF+4 fluids. Note also , that the MOPAR container is 5 Litres (approx. 5 quarts) in volume - NOT 4 Litres (approx. 4 quarts).
In some cases , even the Chrysler Service Manuals can be incorrect. You should refill the transmission with 5 quarts/litres of MOPAR ATF+4 fluid to achieve proper operations.