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Problems with Chevy Venture Gauges

29 messages,  Last post on Jul 15, 2009 at 7:05 AM

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#21 of 29 Re: fuel gauge not working [442dude] by travisg May 05, 2008 (8:08 pm)
Replying to: 442dude (May 05, 2008 5:47 pm) I am on my third tank. I put 2 bottles in a full tank this time. My gauge is actually staying in one place for short periods but then moves drastically. I am not holding out much hope for this to work.Do you know anything about the power sliding door? I forgot that it was a power door and went to slam it shut,when i did it made a grinding noise. I stopped and pushed the button to finish shutting the door.The door came off the track but shut the rest of the way but did not latch all the way. I put it back on the track and tried to let it shut again the same thing happened. Can you please look in your book and see if there is some kind of adjustment for the cable or something and how do you access it? Thanks for any help you can give. : Replies to this message: 442dude (May 06, 2008 4:13 am) 442dude (May 07, 2008 10:32 am) travisg (May 07, 2008 8:20 pm) 442dude (May 08, 2008 4:14 am)
#22 of 29 Re: fuel gauge not working [travisg] by 442dude May 06, 2008 (4:13 am)
Replying to: travisg (May 05, 2008 8:08 pm) I know there is an adjustment procedure in the book for the cable and door travel. Will post later when I am home...I think to access it you take off one of the interior panels. IIRC, it didn't seem difficult.
#23 of 29 Re: fuel gauge not working [travisg] by 442dude May 07, 2008 (10:32 am)
Replying to: travisg (May 05, 2008 8:08 pm) Try this:   Rear Side Door Actuator Cable Tension Adjustment (Regular Method) Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection in Engine Electrical. Remove the right rear quarter lower trim panel. Refer to Trim Panel Replacement - Rear Quarter - Right in Interior Trim.   Position the center roller bracket at the front of the track. Ensure that the bracket is 25 mm (1 in) from the forward radius and that the cable tension slot is accessible in the window located on the Power Sliding Door (PSD) motor clutch assembly. Important: Use only a 6-point 14 mm socket on the adjusting nut. The adjusting nut requires very little torque to achieve proper cable tension. DO NOT exceed 20 N·m of torque on the adjuster nut. Use of additional torque beyond 20 N·m may damage the adjuster nut. If the adjuster nut rounds, refer to Rear Side Door Actuator Cable Tension Adjustment .   Insert a 9 mm (3/8 in) drill bit into the tension slot on the actuator motor. Push in and turn the 14 mm cable adjuster nut (1) counterclockwise until the tensioner pins are located between both the front and rear double blocks. The blocks are marked on the PSD module housing. This action adjust the cable tension. If the adjuster nut rounds, refer to Rear Side Door Actuator Cable Tension Adjustment . Remove the 9 mm (3/8 in) drill bit from the cable tension slot. Operate the sliding door manually. Verify that the tension is correct. Connect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection in Engine Electrical. Perform the reinitialization procedure. Refer to Power Sliding Door (PSD) Re-Initialization . Place the jack in the storage compartment. Close the storage compartment door. Install the right rear quarter lower trim panel. Refer to Trim Panel Replacement - Rear Quarter - Right in Interior Trim.   Rear Side Door Actuator Cable Tension Adjustment (Alternate Method) Remove the right rear quarter lower trim panel. Refer to Trim Panel Replacement - Rear Quarter - Right in Interior Trim. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection in Engine Electrical. Position the sliding door center roller bracket at the front of the track. Ensure that the bracket is 25 mm (1 in) away from the forward radius and that the cable tension adjuster nut is accessible in the adjuster window located on the Power Sliding Door motor clutch assembly. Use 2 medium Phillips head screwdrivers in order to move the cable tension indicators to the uppermost portion of the tension indicating windows. Hold the tension indicators in place in order to reduce the amount of force that is required to turn the adjuster nut.   Insert the chuck end of a 9 mm (3/8 in) drill bit into the tensioning slot in the actuator motor. Complete the following steps simultaneously until you feel resistance in the cable. Resistance indicates that the cable is taut: • Grasp the tension adjusting nut with pliers.   • Push the nut inward.   • Turn the nut counterclockwise.   Release the inward pressure on the nut and allow the nut to lock into place. Release the cable tension indicators. Verify that the cable tension indicators are located between both the front and rear double blocks marked on the PSD module housing. The tension is acceptable if the indicators are slightly high but are touching the indicator marks. If the indicators are below the indicator marks, repeat step 6 through step 11 until you obtain enough tension. If the tension is too high, push in on the adjuster nut in order to release the tension, then repeat step 6 through step 11. Operate the sliding door manually. Position the door as described in step 5. Verify that the tension is correct. If the tension is incorrect , repeat Step 6 through step 11 until you obtain the correct tension. Install the right rear quarter lower trim panel. Refer to Trim Panel Replacement - Rear Quarter - Right in Interior Trim. Connect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection in Engine Electrical. Perform the reinitialization procedure. Refer to Power Sliding Door (PSD) Re-Initialization in Owner's Manual.   Here's pics:       good luck Replies to this message: travisg (May 07, 2008 8:20 pm) 442dude (May 08, 2008 4:14 am)
#24 of 29 Re: fuel gauge not working [442dude] by travisg May 07, 2008 (8:20 pm)
Replying to: 442dude (May 07, 2008 10:32 am) Thank you sooooooo much! I will give it a try when I get time, it looks kind of complicated hope I dont mess it up. Thanks again for your help! Replies to this message: 442dude (May 08, 2008 4:14 am)
#25 of 29 Re: fuel gauge not working [travisg] by 442dude May 08, 2008 (4:14 am)
Replying to: travisg (May 07, 2008 8:20 pm) No problem, I'm sure you'll do fine....I don't have the power door but let me know how you do   John
#26 of 29 Re: fuel gauge not working [442dude] by 442dude May 09, 2008 (4:22 pm)
Replying to: 442dude (May 05, 2008 5:47 pm) We're not the only ones...its old but its 4 pages long   link title
#27 of 29 CRUISE CONTROL TRAC CONTROL AND PARKING BRAKE INDICATOR ALL OUT SAME TIME by chevpwrs Aug 14, 2008 (2:48 pm)
HI I HAVE A 2002 VENTURE FIRST THE BRAKE LIGHT KEPT BLOWING ACTUALLY MELTING THE BASE,I FOUND FIX HERE ON THE FORUM, ALSO RIGHT SIDE TURN SIGNAL, THE MAIN PROBLEM NOW IS THE PARKING BRAKE INDICATOR LIGHT DOES NOT COME ON WHEN THE BRAKE IS APPLIED,BUT DOES COME ON WHEN YOU FIRST START THE VAN. THE CRUISE CONTROL STOPPED WORKING AND THE TRAC CONTROL STOPPED WORKING ALL AT THE SAME TIME. I CHECKED AND REPLACED FUSES ALSO GROUNDS(THAT I COULD FIND) AND THE ALTENATOR IS WORKING OK. I REALLY WANT TO GET RID OF THIS BUT I WANT TOFIX THE PROBLEMS FIRST. ANY HELP WOULD BE A GREAT HELP!!! THANKS ROGER
#28 of 29 Whacky Temperature Gauge 2004 Venture by jimmyk3 Jan 03, 2009 (6:01 am)
I bought a 2004 Venture yesterday, because our 99 Montana died but had always been a good car before the last few months. Last night we drove the car about 30 miles and my wife took it out and called me and said that the temperature gauge was all the way over to hot. I told her NOT to drive the van but to wait for me. When I got there the coolant was in the perfect position and no indicator lights were on. I started the van and by the time I drove it home (about 1 mile) the gauge was pointing to the odometer below the gauge. Can you replace just the temperature gauge? And, do I have to remove everything from the front bumper back to the dash to get to it? Any help would be appreciated!!
#29 of 29 Re: fuel gauge not working [chases] by dsmnf Jul 15, 2009 (7:05 am)
Replying to: chases (Apr 14, 2008 1:24 pm) Could bad terminal connections on the harness plug also cause the fuel gauge to constantly "vibrate" then sporadically jump around everywhere? Sometimes, it even almost does a 360.   I also have a problem with my oil pressure gauge, in that while driving, the oil pressure gauge remains around 45-55. When I begin to slow down below 30 mph, the oil pressure gauge slowly begins to drop. At idle, it drops to about 20. It immediately goes back up to 45-55 as soon as I press the accelerator.

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