Last post on Jan 29, 2013 at 4:40 PM
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Toyota Camry, Auto Repair
#533 of 727 2003 Camry - Help!
Oct 02, 2009 (10:44 am)
I have a 2003 Toyota Camry, 4 cylinder. My check engine light recently went on. I brought it in for an emissions test and was told that I have a P0420 code for catalyst inefficiency where the rear catalytic is not working and needs replacement.
I also had a P0456 where an evap leak was detected. The fuel filler neck is leaking and both the neck and cap need replacing.
Anyone know if these are necessary jobs? Can I safely drive without the repairs (they're pretty costly)? Any help is much appreciated!
#536 of 727 Re: 2003 Camry - Help! [ndhand]
Oct 02, 2009 (11:34 am)
When you say the rear catalytic, are you referencing the 2nd oxygen sensor?
You'd have a sensor in the pipe in front of the catalytic converter, and another sensor after the catalytic converter. The computer monitors both of these sensors. Based on the sensor feedback, it adjusts the engine parameters like air/fuel mixture, timing, etc to get optimal performance.
If the computer is detecting the 2nd sensor is a problem, then we know the first sensor is working and it's able to adjust engine parameters into tolerance correctly. However, then the gas goes thru the catalytic converter and is read by the 2nd sensor. If it doesn't like the readings from the 2nd sensor, then either the sensor is bad, or the catalytic converter is bad. Sensor is the cheaper of the two, and they do go bad and need repairs.
Oct 04, 2009 (1:17 pm)
I have a 05 camry xle v-6 with 25,000 miles which I bought new. Last week the check engine light came on and the car got real sick. It will idle but when you give it gas, it just won't go and there's a clunking in the transmisson.We had it towed to the dealer we bought it from and they said that they couldn't find anything wrong. The car was in there for 2 days and suddenly it started to run fine. Since they couldn't find anything wrong we took it home. 5 days later after running fine, it did it again. We'll have it towed again and hopefully they will find the problem. Has anybody out there experienced this type of problem with their camry.
#538 of 727 Re: check engine light [grapepicker]
Oct 04, 2009 (2:06 pm)
They would be able to read the error codes from the computer. Ask them what the error codes were in the computer, when the worked on it the first time.
If you have to, you can buy an inexpensive reader and read yourself, I think I paid like 40 bucks or so at Pep Boys on sale a year or two ago.
#539 of 727 Re: check engine light [kiawah]
Oct 05, 2009 (4:24 pm)
The could not get the diagnostic reader to give any error codes. No codes to help with the problem. Took it home running about 25 miles and then the "check engine" light came on again and wouldn't run properly... about 2 mph!
#540 of 727 Re: check engine light [grapepicker]
Oct 05, 2009 (5:01 pm)
I'd consider taking it to a different dealership.
#541 of 727 '96 Camry Worth Repair Investment ?
Oct 08, 2009 (10:59 am)
I own a '96 Toyota Camry with only 80K miles on it. I am the original owner and have had very little trouble with my car until the last year or so. I have replaced the tires and done the brakes and replaced the battery. However, it started overheating about a year ago. I have had to replace the radiator, thernostat, water pump, and relay switch for the fan - obvious cooling system issues. It seems to be working fine now. But I need struts, probably 4 now and that will cost another $500 I would think.
I would like to keep this car running for a few more years. What do you think about the money investment? Is a '96 Toyota Camry worth putting another $2K of work in to keep it running for another 3 years? This is not a time for me to take on a car payment. The body is not in the best shape (NYC parking!), so the resale value isn't the top. Appreciate your input.
#542 of 727 Re: '96 Camry Worth Repair Investment ? [tinadiva]
Oct 08, 2009 (11:16 am)
Only you know the real condition of the car, but 80K is not a lot of miles for your vehicle, and you obviously don't put a lot on each year.
$500 is less than 2 payments.
If you buy something new (anything), your insurance payments would go up substantially from what you are paying now...that's probably enough savings to pay for your struts by itself.
I think you'd probably be very hard pressed to find any vehicle in your area for $2k, that would be anywhere near as reliable as your car.