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Older Camry Maintenance and Repair

558 messages,  Last post on Nov 20, 2009 at 11:36 AM

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What is this discussion about? Toyota Camry, Auto Repair


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#529 of 558
Re: 2010 Camry won't start [kiawah] by ginman06
Aug 26, 2009 (8:44 pm)
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Replying to: kiawah (Aug 26, 2009 8:38 pm)

Thank you! Sorry, new to site and posted again in 2010 camry forum.
#530 of 558
2000 toyota camry intermittent shaking by greeneye1
Sep 28, 2009 (7:11 pm)
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Its a problem that does not happen all the time but some times. It started occurring in the last couple of weeks. When I start driving a "chuck,chuck" noise is heard and as I speed up to say 20-30 mph the whole car starts shaking. I stop the car, turn off the ignition, turn on again and start driving and its fine. Sometimes it happens the second time as well and I repeat the procedure. Also there is sometimes a grinding noise when I put in drive from reverse after pulling out of the parking lot. Also I have found this happening mostly when starting and when the temperature is cold but once it happened on the highway as well. I got my suspension checked and it seems to be fine. I think it is a transmission issue and the gears are not engaging properly always. Any help as to what might be going on is greatly appreciated. Btw, it is a 2000 Toyota Camry XLE. Thank you
#531 of 558
Re: 2000 toyota camry intermittent shaking [greeneye1] by kiawah
Sep 29, 2009 (6:47 am)
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Replying to: greeneye1 (Sep 28, 2009 7:11 pm)

I suspect you are going to need a mechanic to look at this to determine what the problem is. He's going to need to hear it, and most likely drive it.
 
Part of isolating it down to the problem area, is to hear whether the problem is related directly to the speed that the tires are rotating (which also has brake rotors, CV joints, and output of transmission rotating at same speed), or at engine RPM's (internal engine, external accessories to engine, input shaft to the transmission).
 
I could interpret a 'chuck, chuck' noise to be a lot of things:
- brake pad worn down, and hitting metal to metal against high spot on rotor
- CV joint bad, binding as it is rotating
- valve bad in engine
- bearing bad in engine or transmission
- bearing bad on an belt driven accessory to the engine
- belt frayed and slapping
- etc
 
Grinding noise could be brakes, or transmission, or ??
 
Get it to a qualified mechanic, shouldn't take long to zero in on problem area.
#532 of 558
Re: 96 Camry dies when slowing or stopped at light... [mitty13] by azbrian
Sep 29, 2009 (11:00 pm)
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Replying to: mitty13 (Aug 01, 2009 12:01 pm)

Very common on 4 cyl engines that EGR valve gets gunked up with carbon deposits and starts to stick. When this happens the valve will stick open and cause a significant internal vacuum leak and will make the car quickly die as it tries to come to an idle. Usually restarting the car resets the EGR valve until it intermittently sticks again. Easy and cheap fix. Remove EGR valve which is in the intake manifold at rear of engine just behind the throtttle body. Clean the carbon out using brake cleaner and reinstall. You may need to replace the gasket between the valve and the manifold but this is a $1 item at NAPA. This will happen and will not always trigger your check engine light or throw any codes. 95% chance this is your problem.
#533 of 558
2003 Camry - Help! by ndhand
Oct 02, 2009 (10:44 am)
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I have a 2003 Toyota Camry, 4 cylinder. My check engine light recently went on. I brought it in for an emissions test and was told that I have a P0420 code for catalyst inefficiency where the rear catalytic is not working and needs replacement.
  
I also had a P0456 where an evap leak was detected. The fuel filler neck is leaking and both the neck and cap need replacing.
  
Anyone know if these are necessary jobs? Can I safely drive without the repairs (they're pretty costly)? Any help is much appreciated!
#536 of 558
Re: 2003 Camry - Help! [ndhand] by kiawah
Oct 02, 2009 (11:34 am)
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Replying to: ndhand (Oct 02, 2009 10:44 am)

When you say the rear catalytic, are you referencing the 2nd oxygen sensor?
 
You'd have a sensor in the pipe in front of the catalytic converter, and another sensor after the catalytic converter. The computer monitors both of these sensors. Based on the sensor feedback, it adjusts the engine parameters like air/fuel mixture, timing, etc to get optimal performance.
 
If the computer is detecting the 2nd sensor is a problem, then we know the first sensor is working and it's able to adjust engine parameters into tolerance correctly. However, then the gas goes thru the catalytic converter and is read by the 2nd sensor. If it doesn't like the readings from the 2nd sensor, then either the sensor is bad, or the catalytic converter is bad. Sensor is the cheaper of the two, and they do go bad and need repairs.
#537 of 558
check engine light by grapepicker
Oct 04, 2009 (1:17 pm)
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I have a 05 camry xle v-6 with 25,000 miles which I bought new. Last week the check engine light came on and the car got real sick. It will idle but when you give it gas, it just won't go and there's a clunking in the transmisson.We had it towed to the dealer we bought it from and they said that they couldn't find anything wrong. The car was in there for 2 days and suddenly it started to run fine. Since they couldn't find anything wrong we took it home. 5 days later after running fine, it did it again. We'll have it towed again and hopefully they will find the problem. Has anybody out there experienced this type of problem with their camry.
#538 of 558
Re: check engine light [grapepicker] by kiawah
Oct 04, 2009 (2:06 pm)
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Replying to: grapepicker (Oct 04, 2009 1:17 pm)

They would be able to read the error codes from the computer. Ask them what the error codes were in the computer, when the worked on it the first time.
 
If you have to, you can buy an inexpensive reader and read yourself, I think I paid like 40 bucks or so at Pep Boys on sale a year or two ago.

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