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Older Camry Maintenance and Repair

558 messages, Last post on Nov 20, 2009 at 11:36 AM
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Replying to: kiawah (Aug 26, 2009 8:38 pm) |
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Its a problem that does not happen all the time but some times. It started occurring in the last couple of weeks. When I start driving a "chuck,chuck" noise is heard and as I speed up to say 20-30 mph the whole car starts shaking. I stop the car, turn off the ignition, turn on again and start driving and its fine. Sometimes it happens the second time as well and I repeat the procedure. Also there is sometimes a grinding noise when I put in drive from reverse after pulling out of the parking lot. Also I have found this happening mostly when starting and when the temperature is cold but once it happened on the highway as well. I got my suspension checked and it seems to be fine. I think it is a transmission issue and the gears are not engaging properly always. Any help as to what might be going on is greatly appreciated. Btw, it is a 2000 Toyota Camry XLE. Thank you
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Replying to: greeneye1 (Sep 28, 2009 7:11 pm) Part of isolating it down to the problem area, is to hear whether the problem is related directly to the speed that the tires are rotating (which also has brake rotors, CV joints, and output of transmission rotating at same speed), or at engine RPM's (internal engine, external accessories to engine, input shaft to the transmission). I could interpret a 'chuck, chuck' noise to be a lot of things: - brake pad worn down, and hitting metal to metal against high spot on rotor - CV joint bad, binding as it is rotating - valve bad in engine - bearing bad in engine or transmission - bearing bad on an belt driven accessory to the engine - belt frayed and slapping - etc Grinding noise could be brakes, or transmission, or ?? Get it to a qualified mechanic, shouldn't take long to zero in on problem area. |
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Replying to: mitty13 (Aug 01, 2009 12:01 pm) |
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I have a 2003 Toyota Camry, 4 cylinder. My check engine light recently went on. I brought it in for an emissions test and was told that I have a P0420 code for catalyst inefficiency where the rear catalytic is not working and needs replacement. I also had a P0456 where an evap leak was detected. The fuel filler neck is leaking and both the neck and cap need replacing. Anyone know if these are necessary jobs? Can I safely drive without the repairs (they're pretty costly)? Any help is much appreciated!
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Replying to: ndhand (Oct 02, 2009 10:44 am) You'd have a sensor in the pipe in front of the catalytic converter, and another sensor after the catalytic converter. The computer monitors both of these sensors. Based on the sensor feedback, it adjusts the engine parameters like air/fuel mixture, timing, etc to get optimal performance. If the computer is detecting the 2nd sensor is a problem, then we know the first sensor is working and it's able to adjust engine parameters into tolerance correctly. However, then the gas goes thru the catalytic converter and is read by the 2nd sensor. If it doesn't like the readings from the 2nd sensor, then either the sensor is bad, or the catalytic converter is bad. Sensor is the cheaper of the two, and they do go bad and need repairs. |
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I have a 05 camry xle v-6 with 25,000 miles which I bought new. Last week the check engine light came on and the car got real sick. It will idle but when you give it gas, it just won't go and there's a clunking in the transmisson.We had it towed to the dealer we bought it from and they said that they couldn't find anything wrong. The car was in there for 2 days and suddenly it started to run fine. Since they couldn't find anything wrong we took it home. 5 days later after running fine, it did it again. We'll have it towed again and hopefully they will find the problem. Has anybody out there experienced this type of problem with their camry.
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Replying to: grapepicker (Oct 04, 2009 1:17 pm) If you have to, you can buy an inexpensive reader and read yourself, I think I paid like 40 bucks or so at Pep Boys on sale a year or two ago.
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