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Older Camry Maintenance and Repair

560 messages,  Last post on Dec 04, 2009 at 7:37 AM

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What is this discussion about? Toyota Camry, Auto Repair

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#527 of 560 2010 Camry won't start by ginman06 Aug 26, 2009 (8:32 pm)
Only owned this for one week. Don't know what happened, but all of a sudden my security LED is blinking, the engine immobilizer kicked in, and my ignition is locked and won't turn. Key fobs work for locking, opening, alarm, but that's all. Called Dealer. Only help they had was to unlock the door with the key itself (old fashioned way) not using the fob. The ignition worked, but upon getting to my destination, it did it again. How do I get out of this mode and get my car back to the way it was? Replies to this message: kiawah (Aug 26, 2009 8:38 pm) ginman06 (Aug 26, 2009 8:44 pm)
#528 of 560 Re: 2010 Camry won't start [ginman06] by kiawah Aug 26, 2009 (8:38 pm)
Replying to: ginman06 (Aug 26, 2009 8:32 pm) Try a different key to get it working.   Take all the keys and vehicle back to the dealership, and they can re-program the security to the keys.   It's under warranty, let them fix it. Replies to this message: ginman06 (Aug 26, 2009 8:44 pm)
#529 of 560 Re: 2010 Camry won't start [kiawah] by ginman06 Aug 26, 2009 (8:44 pm)
Replying to: kiawah (Aug 26, 2009 8:38 pm) Thank you! Sorry, new to site and posted again in 2010 camry forum.
#530 of 560 2000 toyota camry intermittent shaking by greeneye1 Sep 28, 2009 (7:11 pm)
Its a problem that does not happen all the time but some times. It started occurring in the last couple of weeks. When I start driving a "chuck,chuck" noise is heard and as I speed up to say 20-30 mph the whole car starts shaking. I stop the car, turn off the ignition, turn on again and start driving and its fine. Sometimes it happens the second time as well and I repeat the procedure. Also there is sometimes a grinding noise when I put in drive from reverse after pulling out of the parking lot. Also I have found this happening mostly when starting and when the temperature is cold but once it happened on the highway as well. I got my suspension checked and it seems to be fine. I think it is a transmission issue and the gears are not engaging properly always. Any help as to what might be going on is greatly appreciated. Btw, it is a 2000 Toyota Camry XLE. Thank you Replies to this message: kiawah (Sep 29, 2009 6:47 am)
#531 of 560 Re: 2000 toyota camry intermittent shaking [greeneye1] by kiawah Sep 29, 2009 (6:47 am)
Replying to: greeneye1 (Sep 28, 2009 7:11 pm) I suspect you are going to need a mechanic to look at this to determine what the problem is. He's going to need to hear it, and most likely drive it.   Part of isolating it down to the problem area, is to hear whether the problem is related directly to the speed that the tires are rotating (which also has brake rotors, CV joints, and output of transmission rotating at same speed), or at engine RPM's (internal engine, external accessories to engine, input shaft to the transmission).   I could interpret a 'chuck, chuck' noise to be a lot of things: - brake pad worn down, and hitting metal to metal against high spot on rotor - CV joint bad, binding as it is rotating - valve bad in engine - bearing bad in engine or transmission - bearing bad on an belt driven accessory to the engine - belt frayed and slapping - etc   Grinding noise could be brakes, or transmission, or ??   Get it to a qualified mechanic, shouldn't take long to zero in on problem area.
#532 of 560 Re: 96 Camry dies when slowing or stopped at light... [mitty13] by azbrian Sep 29, 2009 (11:00 pm)
Replying to: mitty13 (Aug 01, 2009 12:01 pm) Very common on 4 cyl engines that EGR valve gets gunked up with carbon deposits and starts to stick. When this happens the valve will stick open and cause a significant internal vacuum leak and will make the car quickly die as it tries to come to an idle. Usually restarting the car resets the EGR valve until it intermittently sticks again. Easy and cheap fix. Remove EGR valve which is in the intake manifold at rear of engine just behind the throtttle body. Clean the carbon out using brake cleaner and reinstall. You may need to replace the gasket between the valve and the manifold but this is a $1 item at NAPA. This will happen and will not always trigger your check engine light or throw any codes. 95% chance this is your problem.
#533 of 560 2003 Camry - Help! by ndhand Oct 02, 2009 (10:44 am)
I have a 2003 Toyota Camry, 4 cylinder. My check engine light recently went on. I brought it in for an emissions test and was told that I have a P0420 code for catalyst inefficiency where the rear catalytic is not working and needs replacement.    I also had a P0456 where an evap leak was detected. The fuel filler neck is leaking and both the neck and cap need replacing.    Anyone know if these are necessary jobs? Can I safely drive without the repairs (they're pretty costly)? Any help is much appreciated! Replies to this message: kiawah (Oct 02, 2009 11:34 am)
#536 of 560 Re: 2003 Camry - Help! [ndhand] by kiawah Oct 02, 2009 (11:34 am)
Replying to: ndhand (Oct 02, 2009 10:44 am) When you say the rear catalytic, are you referencing the 2nd oxygen sensor?   You'd have a sensor in the pipe in front of the catalytic converter, and another sensor after the catalytic converter. The computer monitors both of these sensors. Based on the sensor feedback, it adjusts the engine parameters like air/fuel mixture, timing, etc to get optimal performance.   If the computer is detecting the 2nd sensor is a problem, then we know the first sensor is working and it's able to adjust engine parameters into tolerance correctly. However, then the gas goes thru the catalytic converter and is read by the 2nd sensor. If it doesn't like the readings from the 2nd sensor, then either the sensor is bad, or the catalytic converter is bad. Sensor is the cheaper of the two, and they do go bad and need repairs.

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