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Sedans Toyota Camry Older Camry Maintenance and Repair
560 messages, Last post on Dec 04, 2009 at 7:37 AM
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Replying to: kiawah (Aug 26, 2009 3:18 am) I am pretty sure the struts and/or shocks are original. And I do not know if the CV joint/shafts have been replaced before or not. The brakes were just replaced about 9,000 miles ago. (as well as an alignment) I know it would for sure need another alignment after cv joints/shafts replaced. I tune it up every 15K(plugs, wires, cap, rotor) and the last tune up was about 7,000 miles ago. Very clean engine, magnaflow exhaust, K & N Air Filter cleaned every tune up. The timing belt and water pump were replaced at 174,092k. Being a person who has had "clunkers" most of my life I have had to pay for motor mounts on 2 cars and the symptoms are exact. But of course I'm going to get a professional decision... Do you know a ballpark estimate of the costs of Struts/shocks - item & labor CV joint(s)/shaft(s) - item & labor Motor mount(s) - item & labor I know its hard to diagnose and give estimates in this situation but I am just wondering if this is like over a 1000$ job or 500$ or less.. Want to get some pro advice before going to mechanic to be haggled. Thanks alot
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Replying to: chrismn (Aug 26, 2009 7:56 am) You can find the cost of parts, just call any autoparts chain (PepBoys, Autozone, etc) and they'll give you the cost of parts for cv axles and struts, and I guess even motor mounts. Potentially I guess you could even search internet parts sites. With the parts cost knowledge, I would then call a couple tire / alignment shops in your area. These are very standard repairs, and they can give you estimates very quickly. The last time I had struts done I had them done at an NTB Tire store (part of Sears chain), and also got an alignment and tires at the same time. Somehow I think each strut w/labor was around 150-200 each, part strut/shock about half of that and the other half labor. I've seen a number of shops w/advertisements and actually PepBoys might even do them if you have larger shops w/service bays. Call around, you'll find the current market rate range for your geographic are pretty quickly. Common repair, on a common vehicle, can't get any cheaper than that. Sounds like your vehicle is well maintained, probably well worth this investment. |
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Only owned this for one week. Don't know what happened, but all of a sudden my security LED is blinking, the engine immobilizer kicked in, and my ignition is locked and won't turn. Key fobs work for locking, opening, alarm, but that's all. Called Dealer. Only help they had was to unlock the door with the key itself (old fashioned way) not using the fob. The ignition worked, but upon getting to my destination, it did it again. How do I get out of this mode and get my car back to the way it was?
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Replying to: ginman06 (Aug 26, 2009 8:32 pm) Take all the keys and vehicle back to the dealership, and they can re-program the security to the keys. It's under warranty, let them fix it.
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Replying to: kiawah (Aug 26, 2009 8:38 pm) |
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Its a problem that does not happen all the time but some times. It started occurring in the last couple of weeks. When I start driving a "chuck,chuck" noise is heard and as I speed up to say 20-30 mph the whole car starts shaking. I stop the car, turn off the ignition, turn on again and start driving and its fine. Sometimes it happens the second time as well and I repeat the procedure. Also there is sometimes a grinding noise when I put in drive from reverse after pulling out of the parking lot. Also I have found this happening mostly when starting and when the temperature is cold but once it happened on the highway as well. I got my suspension checked and it seems to be fine. I think it is a transmission issue and the gears are not engaging properly always. Any help as to what might be going on is greatly appreciated. Btw, it is a 2000 Toyota Camry XLE. Thank you
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Replying to: greeneye1 (Sep 28, 2009 7:11 pm) Part of isolating it down to the problem area, is to hear whether the problem is related directly to the speed that the tires are rotating (which also has brake rotors, CV joints, and output of transmission rotating at same speed), or at engine RPM's (internal engine, external accessories to engine, input shaft to the transmission). I could interpret a 'chuck, chuck' noise to be a lot of things: - brake pad worn down, and hitting metal to metal against high spot on rotor - CV joint bad, binding as it is rotating - valve bad in engine - bearing bad in engine or transmission - bearing bad on an belt driven accessory to the engine - belt frayed and slapping - etc Grinding noise could be brakes, or transmission, or ?? Get it to a qualified mechanic, shouldn't take long to zero in on problem area. |
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Replying to: mitty13 (Aug 01, 2009 12:01 pm) |
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I have a 2003 Toyota Camry, 4 cylinder. My check engine light recently went on. I brought it in for an emissions test and was told that I have a P0420 code for catalyst inefficiency where the rear catalytic is not working and needs replacement. I also had a P0456 where an evap leak was detected. The fuel filler neck is leaking and both the neck and cap need replacing. Anyone know if these are necessary jobs? Can I safely drive without the repairs (they're pretty costly)? Any help is much appreciated!
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