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Sedans Toyota Camry Older Camry Maintenance and Repair
558 messages, Last post on Nov 20, 2009 at 11:36 AM
You are in the Toyota Camry Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: rodrico46 (Aug 03, 2009 5:08 am) |
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hi I have a 98 camry le that just got totaled in a hit and run found a 93 wagon wondering if the drive train will swap relatively easy both are 4 cyl auto trans
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Replying to: bubba38 (Aug 03, 2009 7:14 pm) However, these are two totally different generation vehicles. The 98 is a generation 4 Camry which covers model years 1997 thru 2001. The wagon is part of a generation 3 Camry which covers years 1992 thur 1996. I would guess this is NOT a clean swap, but that is only a reasonable guess. |
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Hi I have a 1993 Toyota Camry LE 4 cyl. It has 230,182k miles and runs wonderfully with an epa of about 27-29mpg It was my grandmothers since original purchase in '93 and all maintenance has been kept up throughout its life. Since I've owned it I change the oil/filter(myself) every 3k or less. Every 15k I change the trans fluid/filter/gaskett. I think CV joints are going to be to a big task for a beginner like me. And maybe even the motor mounts. Whenever driving (or operating in a small environment like a parking lot, etc) and I turn more than about 180 degrees in eiter direction I can hear a pinging and through time it is getting much worse and louder. The pinging often comes from both sides. And sometimes when *slowly* going over a speed bump or pulling into driveway the banging noise occurs as well. Is this CV joints? or boots/axle/etc? I am sure the struts need replacing too... MOTOR MOUNTS: When reversing or stopped at a light or decelerating the steering wheel and most of the car often shakes and rattles pretty bad. This is the worst when in reverse. I am pretty sure this is one(or more) of the motor mounts. According to my Haynes book there are 4 motor mounts. The (2) that are easily visible and accessible when opening the hood look fine. I think its a mount underneath the transmission since it rattles ALOT more in Reverse as opposed to N or Drive. My questions are... Do the symptoms I've provided match what I've diagnosed in any way? If so, what would the single itemized cost estimates be for.. (PART / LABOR) CV joints/boots/etc Struts(all 4) Motor Mount(s) Thanks for any reply! ChrisMN
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Replying to: chrismn (Aug 26, 2009 12:37 am) I'd classify the bad sounds of struts and cv joints more like creaking and groaning and grinding....vs.... pinging. If this was my vehicle that I was picking up for my daugter to drive, I would replace the struts, cv joints/shafts and while I had it apart I'd throw new brake rotors/calipers/pads on it. Of course you also need an alignment. If you haven't done any major mechanical work before, this is certainly not a job you'd want to tackle yourself. Swapping the springs on the struts can be very dangerous for a shade tree mechanic, and a shop has a big spring compressor that makes that job a snap for them to do. I've done it myself in prior vehicles, but the last vehicle I had to fix it I just had a shop do it. Personally, I've never had motor mounts go bad, so I wouldn't be replacing them as a guess or hunch. How do the plugs and wires look? Has it had an engine tuneup recently? As with any older high mileage vehicle, you have got to start thinking about an end-of-life plan. It sounds like the vehicle may be in very good condition and warrant this maintenance. But 250K is a lot of miles, and you're going to find more and more opptys to have to make maintenance decisions whether to fix it or not. You didn't mention timing belt and waterpump replacement, when is the last time those were done?
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Replying to: kiawah (Aug 26, 2009 3:18 am) I am pretty sure the struts and/or shocks are original. And I do not know if the CV joint/shafts have been replaced before or not. The brakes were just replaced about 9,000 miles ago. (as well as an alignment) I know it would for sure need another alignment after cv joints/shafts replaced. I tune it up every 15K(plugs, wires, cap, rotor) and the last tune up was about 7,000 miles ago. Very clean engine, magnaflow exhaust, K & N Air Filter cleaned every tune up. The timing belt and water pump were replaced at 174,092k. Being a person who has had "clunkers" most of my life I have had to pay for motor mounts on 2 cars and the symptoms are exact. But of course I'm going to get a professional decision... Do you know a ballpark estimate of the costs of Struts/shocks - item & labor CV joint(s)/shaft(s) - item & labor Motor mount(s) - item & labor I know its hard to diagnose and give estimates in this situation but I am just wondering if this is like over a 1000$ job or 500$ or less.. Want to get some pro advice before going to mechanic to be haggled. Thanks alot
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Replying to: chrismn (Aug 26, 2009 7:56 am) You can find the cost of parts, just call any autoparts chain (PepBoys, Autozone, etc) and they'll give you the cost of parts for cv axles and struts, and I guess even motor mounts. Potentially I guess you could even search internet parts sites. With the parts cost knowledge, I would then call a couple tire / alignment shops in your area. These are very standard repairs, and they can give you estimates very quickly. The last time I had struts done I had them done at an NTB Tire store (part of Sears chain), and also got an alignment and tires at the same time. Somehow I think each strut w/labor was around 150-200 each, part strut/shock about half of that and the other half labor. I've seen a number of shops w/advertisements and actually PepBoys might even do them if you have larger shops w/service bays. Call around, you'll find the current market rate range for your geographic are pretty quickly. Common repair, on a common vehicle, can't get any cheaper than that. Sounds like your vehicle is well maintained, probably well worth this investment. |
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Only owned this for one week. Don't know what happened, but all of a sudden my security LED is blinking, the engine immobilizer kicked in, and my ignition is locked and won't turn. Key fobs work for locking, opening, alarm, but that's all. Called Dealer. Only help they had was to unlock the door with the key itself (old fashioned way) not using the fob. The ignition worked, but upon getting to my destination, it did it again. How do I get out of this mode and get my car back to the way it was?
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Replying to: ginman06 (Aug 26, 2009 8:32 pm) Take all the keys and vehicle back to the dealership, and they can re-program the security to the keys. It's under warranty, let them fix it.
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Replying to: kiawah (Aug 26, 2009 8:38 pm) |
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