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Sedans Toyota Camry Older Camry Maintenance and Repair
558 messages, Last post on Nov 20, 2009 at 11:36 AM
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Replying to: sks3266 (Jun 12, 2009 6:21 am) Your coil should be on the fender well, it needs to have some volts on the small wires. Leave the key on for a few seconds and check the voltage there. The ignitor is under the coil, and it could be bad.They go bad if key is left on for 20 minutes or so. Distributor has some circuits but I would have to check a wire diagram to see how it is wired. |
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I have a 1994 Camry and while I am driving the A/C light starts to blink and it stops blowing cold air. I have already had the freon and compressor checked. It blows very cold while it is working. I have replaced the clutch relay under the hood on the drivers side but that has not fixed the problem. Is there another realy somewhere that I should be checking or change? The only way I can get the A/C to work again is to pull over and turn the car off and on again.
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Replying to: heisman98 (Jun 23, 2009 7:31 am) You should look at it beforehand, to understand the difference. Run the engine with the a/c turned off to see how it looks, and then have someone turn the a/c on so you see the clutch engage and the compressor turns. Can you also indicate whether the a/c compressor cycles on and off by itself, when the engine is running at about 2K rpm.
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Replying to: kiawah (Jun 23, 2009 8:43 am)
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Replying to: heisman98 (Jun 23, 2009 9:36 am) It should be cycling on and off.
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Replying to: kiawah (Jun 23, 2009 10:12 am)
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Replying to: heisman98 (Jun 23, 2009 10:20 am)
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Replying to: kiawah (Jun 23, 2009 10:24 am)
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Replying to: heisman98 (Jun 23, 2009 10:28 am) Things we know/suspect at this point.... - Your system is cycling at 2K, which tells me that the compressor is able to pull down a vacuum low enough that it turns the compressor off (so low pressure switch is working, compressor is working, compressor relay is working), and it also tells me that the freon level is not overcharged. You also indicate it's cold when running, so freon level seems like it's not to much, and not too little, so that's goodness. - The fans are turning on, so that tells me the temp switch appears to be working, the relays and fans themselves are working. - You indicated that when idling and the compressor kicks in, the idle speed increases, so we know the idle up VSV is working and EFI main relay are working. There's a couple things left which would be hard to figure out are working or not via the internet. There is a revolution detecting sensor on the compressor, which is used to verify that the compressor is turning and how fast it is turning (so it doesn't overspin). This sensor might be bad, or the wiring to the sensor is bad. There is also an A/C amplifier used for control, and the ECM computer. The symptom that you mention that when you have this problem, you turn the engine off, and then back on and it works correctly, points me to an electronic control issue, which may be intermittent. Some error condition is getting set after a while of running, which turns on the error light and turns the system off. You turn off the vehicle, error condition is reset, and doesn't immediately return. Other than the compressor sensor, I think you're going to need to get this to the dealer to trouble shoot further. Having a dependable failure is most helpful for the dealer to actually see the failing condition.
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Replying to: kiawah (Jun 23, 2009 10:56 am) I just have not had much luck at dealerships and sometimes they are not trust worthy. It could be something as simplistic as a sensor and they might want to charge me to redo the entire system. Thanks again for your help.
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