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Sedans Toyota Camry Older Camry Maintenance and Repair
558 messages, Last post on Nov 20, 2009 at 11:36 AM
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Replying to: ri2b (Jun 12, 2009 8:12 am)
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Replying to: mcdawgg (Jun 12, 2009 8:22 am)
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Replying to: ri2b (Jun 12, 2009 10:43 am) |
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I just had my windshield replaced. The seal at the cowl was pretty rotten already, but with the windshield replacement even more of it came apart. The shop offered to replace it for free if I could bring them the part. When I did a parts lookup I can't find a seal only, it looks like you have to buy the entire cowl grille piece (a left and right side), which is between 150-200 from what I can tell. Is this really all one piece or can you buy the seal separately? Thanks! |
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Replying to: 210delray (Jun 12, 2009 5:41 am) Is yours a four cylinder? Four's are easy to change, The mount on the front on the block, comes right out. Also there is another mount on the topside, but easy to change. It's like changing your Air Filter. The mechanic would only need to remove the mount itself. |
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Replying to: onetoyotaowner (Jun 07, 2009 1:40 pm) At any rate the Toyotal engine swap for that car would be the easiest way to get it back on the road. First I would find out if this engine has some bad history the 2002 Camry has a different engine design better design but gonna be harder to find at a salvage yard. I swapped another Corolla engine into my 87 Corolla. I never took any parts off the "new" block, I just bolted the engine in and put on new water pump and the old manifolds. I didn't buy one gasket. The new engine had 79K miles compared to my old engine with 250K. A good Toyota shop will keep the parts off your old engine to make sure it works with a new engine. This engine could be a re-manufactured block with cylinder head attached, and no valve cover, or simply one pulled out of a wrecked, or older Camry. Your four cylinder is a 5S used in 1996-2001. Plenty of these in salvage yards. I paid $150 for my salvage engine. It was stripped of everything and only included the block, heads, valve cover, flywheel, and crankshaft pulley. |
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Replying to: sks3266 (Jun 12, 2009 6:21 am) Your coil should be on the fender well, it needs to have some volts on the small wires. Leave the key on for a few seconds and check the voltage there. The ignitor is under the coil, and it could be bad.They go bad if key is left on for 20 minutes or so. Distributor has some circuits but I would have to check a wire diagram to see how it is wired. |
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I have a 1994 Camry and while I am driving the A/C light starts to blink and it stops blowing cold air. I have already had the freon and compressor checked. It blows very cold while it is working. I have replaced the clutch relay under the hood on the drivers side but that has not fixed the problem. Is there another realy somewhere that I should be checking or change? The only way I can get the A/C to work again is to pull over and turn the car off and on again.
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Replying to: heisman98 (Jun 23, 2009 7:31 am) You should look at it beforehand, to understand the difference. Run the engine with the a/c turned off to see how it looks, and then have someone turn the a/c on so you see the clutch engage and the compressor turns. Can you also indicate whether the a/c compressor cycles on and off by itself, when the engine is running at about 2K rpm.
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Replying to: kiawah (Jun 23, 2009 8:43 am)
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