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Sedans Toyota Camry Older Camry Maintenance and Repair
558 messages, Last post on Nov 20, 2009 at 11:36 AM
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Replying to: onetoyotaowner (Jun 06, 2009 9:06 pm) We should be a little cautious here of knowing exactly what the problem is. I have no idea what 'shaft' he might be talking about. A 'rod', if it is a connecting rod, is indeed a major problem. A connecting rod connects the piston (which goes up and down), to the crankshaft, (which which turns around and around). If a rod breaks then the one piston stops moving, and the engine trys to run on 3 of the 4 pistons. Depending upon where a connecting rod broke, the piece that is still connected to the crankshaft can spin around (since the crankshaft is still turning), and starts poking things. It can scracth a bunch of stuff up, send metal parts flying around, and poke thru the bottom oil pan draining your oil and causing other engine failure. It's a major heart attack! This would not be covered under insurance. This would be covered under warrranty (or extended warranty), if you were withing the mileage and #years, which you are not. If you have had all of the maintenance done at the dealership you might try asking if Toyota would pick up a portion of the cost, it's a very long shot but worth a try to ask. This is (most likely) a multiple thousands of dollars fix (if it really was a connecting rod, and it really did break thru the exterior of the engine). If the engine continued to try and run after this problem, then your timing belt is not the cause. If the belt broke, then the engine would die immediately. Also if the belt broke, you would potentially bend valves not break a crank. I don't think the timing belt had anything to do with causing your problem. I think your options will be to junk the vehicle, or pay to have a replacement engine put into it.
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Replying to: 210delray (Jun 06, 2009 7:55 pm) Misread the part. |
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Replying to: kiawah (Jun 07, 2009 1:30 am) Check the tightness on the oil drain bolt, or see if it is still there before you take it back to the oil change place. The oil could have been slowly leaking out or suddenly drained out, and in that case, engine failure is only minutes away. A disassembling of the engine could reveal more light on the way it failed. The oil filter loose, the oil pump failed. |
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Replying to: rearwheeldrive (Jun 07, 2009 12:36 pm) I think you misread his post. He didn't indicate that he recently had an oil change which caused the engine problem. He indicated that he has always had oil changes done on scheduled time.
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Replying to: kiawah (Jun 07, 2009 12:43 pm) Thanks for reply. This is was not recent oil change issue. hi Kiawah, I could not believe it either, but during the tow when the car was lifted up what appeared to me was something like end of the piston , however I am no engine expert. I am wondering If it is worth fixing - replacing the engine or would I need to junk the car? I am not sure what else could have been damaged with the engine block with this kind of a damage - transmission, electronics?
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Replying to: onetoyotaowner (Jun 07, 2009 1:40 pm) |
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We just had the motor mounts replaced on our 1996 Toyota Camry. The car ran fine for about 30 miles but now it stalls immediately after putting it into drive. We are having it towed to our mechanic. It seems like a big coincidence that the car started having trouble after the motor mount work. Before this, we had no problems with the car. Our mechanic recommended that the motor mounts be replaced as preventive maintenance. Do you have any ideas on how replacing the motor mounts could cause the car to stall when putting it in drive? My son says the engine shakes after it stalls. Thanks. Sandy
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Replying to: rassum (Jun 11, 2009 7:19 pm)
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Purch. 96 Toyota Camry (2.2L) from a friend - water pump had seized & shredded timing belt. Replaced both as well as plugs & wires. Bottom end is fine. Checked upper end of engine, had lots of build up on tops of pistons, etc. - cleaned all. Resurfaced valves & seats, etc. Have it all back together - getting fuel, but only 1 or 2 sparks on first crank (with #1 plug out to test), then no fire at all on subsequent cranking. Can let it set for a day, then get same response. Tried replacing distributor, (was told it could be the problem) - get same results. Have been told it could be crank sensor or the "module". Tested crank sensor & module - both test good. Any other suggestions/testing/troubleshooting anyone can suggest would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! Dave
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When cold shifting from 2nd to 3rd is delayed. Must rev above 2900 rpm to shift. After 1st shift or 3/4 mile all ok and shifting in all gears perfect. Any advise?
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