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Sedans Toyota Camry Older Camry Maintenance and Repair
558 messages, Last post on Nov 20, 2009 at 11:36 AM
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Replying to: rearwheeldrive (Feb 13, 2009 10:48 pm) as the non oem. But the car now gets to running speed noticably faster. It was worth the extra $42.00 to get OEM wires. Being that this camry has a V4 it needs as much hp as it can get and the nonoem seemed to cut it back. I also noticed how much better the oem wires were physically. As I took the new generic out a boot got stuck in the cylinder. Also the OEM wires were marked with numbers that showed the cylinder they go into. The dust covers also sealed the cylinder much tighter. One last thing they connected to the coil much much easier then the non oem. With those I had to force them on with a screwdriver to get them to click on. But the OEM required no force.
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Replying to: gunga64 (Feb 14, 2009 6:17 pm) Wires on Camrys are made to fit each cylinder individually I don't know if aftermarkets fit like OEM. You get what you pay for. Performance though, can not be too good when it comes to a part like this. The better the wires the better your engine will run. It seemed the mechanic was making your new wires out to be too good for your engine. I like to match up the boots from OEM to replacement part, to be sure they fit like OEMs Sounds like you got a better part with dealer. Always do. |
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I have a 1995 Camry Wagon 4 Cylinder with 178K miles on it. About a year ago it started to overheat during highway driving. Initially I replaced the radiator, water pump, and thermostatic valve. However, the vehicle still overheated during highway driving while in bumper to bumper traffic. This lead me to replace the fans and fan control unit. For the past few months I had assumed the problem was fixed. However, this past weekend while driving to from DC to West Virginia after 90 minutes of highway driving at speed the temperature gauge indicated the car was overheat once we started to get into the mountains. I am uncertain the car was in fact overheating since the gauge would oscillate between a normal or slightly higher temperature and redlined in the course of 30 seconds, sometimes remain redlined for a minute (still ossilating somewhat), then return to normal for a few minutes before restarting. There were no abnormal odors while this was going on. When I pulled over the water lines were warm, but not hot enough to burn my hand, the radiator fans were on, there was coolant in the reservoir and the car seemed normal but for the gauge. At that point I turned around and drove home to change vehicles. The car mostly operated at normal temperature the entire ride home doing 70 mph. Does anyone have thoughts on what might be the cause of this? The vehicle overheated a number of times over the past year, could this have caused damage that would show up with these symptoms?
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Replying to: ubellowed (Feb 18, 2009 8:20 am) |
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Replying to: ubellowed (Feb 18, 2009 8:20 am)
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Replying to: kiawah (Feb 18, 2009 2:36 pm) Sounds like you head gasket got compromised when it initially overheated. This could cause water coolant to be sucked out of the engine and the coolant level to get too low. Low coolant makes the heater feel cold and then hot. The temperature gauge could be oscillating because the water is not there and it starts to measure cooler air trapped inside the engine. Always check the radiator and not the reservoir The reservoir will fill up with coolant from the overheat. Anytime the gauge fluctuates past normal I immediately turn the heater on pop the hood, turn the key off when clear of the hwy, but leave in unlock, so I can still steer the car, coast to a stop. Then open the hood and hope your parked into a headwind to help cool the engine down. |
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I have a 96 4 cyl Camry and yesterday on the way home it started overheating when I was stopped. When I started again then the temp gauge went back to normal. All hoses are hot, but when I opened the hood and started the it up the fans never kicked on. I have checked all the relays whick look good. I have checked the fans and when put a direct current to them they work. They will also work when I turn on the A/C. Any idea that would cause the fans not to work after this?
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Replying to: bandrew (Feb 25, 2009 9:21 am) If that RDI doesn't fix it write back, I'll have you meter out some relays. |
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My 2002 Camry SE V-6 with 205,000 miles runs great. However, I've noticed a profound engine knock when starting. It only last a few seconds then it is followed by smooth running. Sometimes it seems to be running on only 5 cyclinders but that too goes away quickly. I've checked the oil...its fine but i do have a faulty "ck engine light" that comes on when nothing is wrong (according to the dlr), which means it probably doesn't come on when it should. Any thoughts? Ed
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Replying to: emcqueen (Feb 26, 2009 1:50 pm) I'm suspicious of the dlr telling you that they are 'false'. Don't you have to have it fixed before it will pass state inspection?
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