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Older Camry Maintenance and Repair

558 messages, Last post on Nov 20, 2009 at 11:36 AM
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Replying to: kiawah (Dec 17, 2008 5:00 am) Having determined that the pickup coil was out of spec, I replaced the distributor, re-timed the engine, and drove the car yesterday for about 120 miles. Everything was great, except I noticed that it seems to lack power. Could that be an issue with the timing? Maybe I timed it incorrectly, not sure. I was driving it this morning down the Interstate, and the Check Engine light came on. The car did not stop driving, but something is definitely amiss, so I need to find a table of engine codes and which OBD pins I need to connect to be able to read them.
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Replying to: cthomas86 (Dec 17, 2008 8:57 am) You are probably also getting poor gas mileage.
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Replying to: kiawah (Dec 17, 2008 10:01 am) If you do this while running, you can hear the engine rev up and down. Always mark the distributor at the pad where it mounts on the engine for a good reference point. Then move off this reference in 1/16 inch increments. Checking codes for the 5S- engine, the manual shows the Data Link Connector at the brake master cylinder in the engine compartment next to the left fender. Opening the cover lid, you should see terminals in groups left and right. The group on the left is the diagnostic terminals. The upper right corner terminal and the one under neath it, is the diagnostic terminals. Also the terminal to the left of the one underneath. Short the terminal to the left to the terminal in the upper corner. Have the key on, but engine NOT running. Remove the jumper AFTER turning key off. The codes flash in .5 second flashes. If 2 is flashed, it takes 1 second. Then you will get a pause of 1.5 seconds and if their is a second digit it will flash. If its is 5, the light will flash 5x in 2.5 seconds. 25 is lean mixture. 3 is ignition signal. Codes start at 1 and go to 85 on your model. After both digits flash you get a 2.5 second pause and another code may flash if it is stored. This code retrieval repeats continuously until all codes have flashed. Then after 4.5 second pause it starts all over with the 1st code again. |
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My 02 Camry has 59,300 miles. In past 6 wks, the heat only comes out of the top (dash) vents. No Heat from the bottom, regardless of the settings on the dial. Dealer sez the heater box assembly needs to be replaced which means the dash wud have to be removed. Estimate for parts and labor $2997!!! LOL. Has anyone had a similar problem? Any suggestions (other than live with it).
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Replying to: TLeesaM (Dec 20, 2008 6:48 am) I don't have my service manuals available, but I would hope that they could just fix whatever the problem part is, as opposed to replacing the whole heater box assembly. Heck, you just might have a bad selector switch.
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Replying to: kiawah (Dec 21, 2008 7:20 am) There nothing wrong with the heater box. Its just a box. The heater switch is not sending a signal to the door that direct heat out of the box. Take your radio out and you can follow the cable to the heater box from the heater switch and the temp switch. Some cars you can see it from under the glove box. Remove the glove box too. Its just a couple screws. If you pinch the glove box sides to the center it drops down out of your way. Look on the box for any levers that move that is where the problem is.You can move them and see how it works. |
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Replying to: kiawah (Apr 20, 2008 3:51 pm) the main issue was a pinced wire routed near drvr side trunk hinge was pinching and shorting to ground ( chassis) unbeleivable (forgot to let you know have a few more questions about older toyota 92- 93 does anyone know what need to be changed to put a 2.2 engine from a camry in a celica that came with a 1.8. does wiring harness need to be changed or just the computer? paul
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Replying to: pawleep (Dec 23, 2008 6:28 am) Glad you found it. |
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My check engine light went on I Just change my air intake valve. My car wont start up right away it sputteres and dies a few time then will stay on what is that
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Replying to: dfiveturtles (Jan 07, 2009 12:57 pm)
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