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Sedans Toyota Camry Older Camry Maintenance and Repair
610 messages, Last post on Feb 21, 2010 at 9:01 PM
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Replying to: cthomas86 (Dec 15, 2008 1:14 am) If both of those are okay, then other end of the ground cable(non-battery end), to make sure there isn't any corrosion there. You can also check the resistance of that cable to make sure you aren't dropping any voltage. Then check the positive cable connection at the starter, to make sure there isn't any corrosion there either and it is a good tight connection. Caution to disconnect the battery while you are doing that, so that you (or your wrench) don't become the short to frame ground. Repetitive clicking can be a relay, which doesn't have enough voltage to stay latched.
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Replying to: kiawah (Dec 15, 2008 7:05 am) But, after idle operation for 5-10 minutes, my engine dies. No engine codes, no check engine light, it just stops firing. I connected the jumpers to test for the fuel pump being non-operational, but I was able to turn the fuel pump on. I also decided to try leaving the ignition on to see if I could heat up the Ignitor module. When I did this, 4 out of 5 times the car would not start at all. So for right now, I am guessing that it might be a bad Ignitor.
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Replying to: cthomas86 (Dec 15, 2008 11:04 pm)
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Replying to: kiawah (Dec 16, 2008 5:58 am) Actually, I forgot to check the internal resistance of the pickup coil as well. Turns out that the pickup coil is off its mark as well. Maximum internal resistance from G+ to G- terminals should be 275ohms, but mine is around 305ohms, so it looks like I may need a new distributor instead.
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Replying to: cthomas86 (Dec 16, 2008 6:54 am) Are you saying that the starter does not spin up and crank over the engine? or, are you saying that the starter spins, engages the engine, turns the engine, but the engine doesn't fire up and run? If your security system has a relay which stops the starter from getting it's power, then it won't spin and the engine won't crank. Which no-start symptom do you have?
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Replying to: kiawah (Dec 17, 2008 6:00 am) Having determined that the pickup coil was out of spec, I replaced the distributor, re-timed the engine, and drove the car yesterday for about 120 miles. Everything was great, except I noticed that it seems to lack power. Could that be an issue with the timing? Maybe I timed it incorrectly, not sure. I was driving it this morning down the Interstate, and the Check Engine light came on. The car did not stop driving, but something is definitely amiss, so I need to find a table of engine codes and which OBD pins I need to connect to be able to read them.
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Replying to: cthomas86 (Dec 17, 2008 9:57 am) You are probably also getting poor gas mileage.
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Replying to: kiawah (Dec 17, 2008 11:01 am) If you do this while running, you can hear the engine rev up and down. Always mark the distributor at the pad where it mounts on the engine for a good reference point. Then move off this reference in 1/16 inch increments. Checking codes for the 5S- engine, the manual shows the Data Link Connector at the brake master cylinder in the engine compartment next to the left fender. Opening the cover lid, you should see terminals in groups left and right. The group on the left is the diagnostic terminals. The upper right corner terminal and the one under neath it, is the diagnostic terminals. Also the terminal to the left of the one underneath. Short the terminal to the left to the terminal in the upper corner. Have the key on, but engine NOT running. Remove the jumper AFTER turning key off. The codes flash in .5 second flashes. If 2 is flashed, it takes 1 second. Then you will get a pause of 1.5 seconds and if their is a second digit it will flash. If its is 5, the light will flash 5x in 2.5 seconds. 25 is lean mixture. 3 is ignition signal. Codes start at 1 and go to 85 on your model. After both digits flash you get a 2.5 second pause and another code may flash if it is stored. This code retrieval repeats continuously until all codes have flashed. Then after 4.5 second pause it starts all over with the 1st code again. |
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My 02 Camry has 59,300 miles. In past 6 wks, the heat only comes out of the top (dash) vents. No Heat from the bottom, regardless of the settings on the dial. Dealer sez the heater box assembly needs to be replaced which means the dash wud have to be removed. Estimate for parts and labor $2997!!! LOL. Has anyone had a similar problem? Any suggestions (other than live with it).
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Replying to: TLeesaM (Dec 20, 2008 7:48 am) I don't have my service manuals available, but I would hope that they could just fix whatever the problem part is, as opposed to replacing the whole heater box assembly. Heck, you just might have a bad selector switch.
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