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Sedans Toyota Camry Older Camry Maintenance and Repair
558 messages, Last post on Nov 20, 2009 at 11:36 AM
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Hi I got 93 Camry 4cyl. run fine but 1 day it just die, I check timingbelt,it still good. only ignition coil and igniter that i cannot check. Anyone have any idea or been thru this similar situation please let me know, thanks |
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We will be replacing the coil as soon as we get it off the distributor. The car is my bro-in-laws and he says when he went to turn it off, he smelled something burning and the car would never start since. It pumps fuel, but I get no spark at the plug. We are replacing the basics: cap/rotor/coil. If that fails to produce a spart, we will be looking at the ignitor module. It appears the best way to get to the underside of the coil to remove the securing screws is to losen the distributor, which then means we've got to set the timing after we install the coil. Any advice on how to better replace the coil would be welcomed. Any advice or links to perform timing on the car would, as well, be welcomed. My preference is to search edmunds, then the internet for a solution rather than posing a question that's already been satisfied, directly or indirectly. Needless to say, I have failed over the last several days to find a proper answer/advice. Thank you!
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Replying to: shadetree18 (Dec 09, 2008 8:01 am) Now you will have to set the timing the old fashioned way. First, get the engine at TDC This can be found by putting the mark on the crankshaft pulley at the TDC mark, to the marks for TDC and advance timing on the cover that is attached under this pulley. Next when you slide the distributor on the rotor should be close to the No. 1 position according to the wire on the cap going to spark plug. You still have all the wires on the cap? On the V6 engine, No1 should be at the 11 o'clock position. Keep the cap off but use the rotor to find align to the no 1 position. If you look inside the engine, the shaft will go into another shaft, these shafts have slight offset on them both. This is so you can only get them together one way.If it doesn't align up, rotate the engine one more turn, 360 degrees around so they align. What this does is set it at TDC again. This is because the engine always turns over two times while the distributor only turns over once.So you have two position at TDC on the engine. One is correct the other is one complete turn in the wrong direction. Trying to figure out which one is correct before installing the distributor is a guess. But again Toyota wont let you put the distributor in in this incorrect position. When you slid the distributor on, the rotor should be at the No1 position when it mates back on to the engine. Another way to find TDC is remove the no 1 spark plug and put a plastic straw in the spark plug hole and turn the engine over by hand. Use a socket attached to your ratchet that fits the crankshaft pulley bolt. Turn it over until the straw stops moving up and just before it starts back down. This is TDC. All these procedure are to get it close to TDC, because on Toyota you can get away with being close and not exact on the timing marks. That because the parts only fit one way, which wont allow you to be off a tooth or degree like other motors. Even the plug wires only go on one way to the correct cylinders. |
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Replying to: rearwheeldrive (Dec 09, 2008 10:47 am) Once the distributor is in you can fine tune the timing. I remove the rotor so I can see the shaft going through the distributor. Near the bottom by the coils or module you replaced is six poles on this shaft. Align the one so it is passing over the module mark. This sends the signal to the distributor to fire the plug. This is as close to TDC you can get. Then turn the shaft slightly ahead so it is past this point . Now your timing is slightly advanced. Ideal timing is 6 degrees advanced. Another way is to set the timing marks is to set the crankshaft pulley to 6 degrees BTDC and then center the pole on the distributor to the module pick up point.WARNING: Always rotate engine in the direction of rotation not backwards . This will avoid the timing chain coming off. |
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Replying to: rearwheeldrive (Dec 09, 2008 10:47 am) I'm really thrilled with the advice on TDC and what not. The four cylinder does denote each plug on the distributor cap. But I never remove plug wires before marking them anyhow. Excellent advice all around!
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Replying to: shadetree18 (Dec 12, 2008 10:11 am)
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Replying to: shadetree18 (Dec 12, 2008 12:45 pm) The module is usually on the fender under the coil. I was confused when you replaced something inside the distributor. Could be wrong though. Another test would be to turn the key on to the run position, but dont start it. In 10 or 20 minutes try and start it. This will eliminate the fuel system(electrical too) as being bad. Since your car is shutting off after the car runs for 10 minutes it might be fuel related. In this test the fuel pump would not be running if the engines off, but the ignition module will be getting hot, and not work after 10 minutes. The module can go bad if the ignition is left on for 30 minutes or more. |
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So, my 1994 Toyota Camry 4-Cyl (Engine 5S-FE) was recently having intermittent issues starting and operating. The difficulties came either starting cold or hot, sometimes I would need to turn the key longer than necessary when starting cold, or would need to wait 30-45 minutes to start hot. Once, during operation at about 35mph, the engine stopped firing in mid drive. Because of how intermittent the problems were, I believed it was an electrical issue. I noticed that the battery terminals were fairly corroded, so I pulled the battery and cleaned both the contacts and the terminals. I pulled the sparks, found no evidence of corrosion or damage. They are only 15,000 miles old. I checked continuity in the cables to the distributor cap, and everything checked out fine. I pulled the rotor and dust cover from the distributor, removed the positive and negative terminals and checked the primary resistance on the Internal Ignition Coil. It tested around 1.9ohms, where specs for a good one are 0.4-0.5 ohms, so I replaced the Coil. This process required removal and reinstallation of the distributor. I reconnected all electrical relays and went to turn the car on. When I go to start the car, the lights on the clock dim, along with a few other HUD lights, but the starter does not turn over at all. Also, there is now a repetitive clicking sound at the front of the cabin, and the red LED below the wheel is blinking on and off, so I believe this may have to do with the latent security system in the car. What would cause the problems I am experiencing here?
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Replying to: cthomas86 (Dec 15, 2008 12:14 am) If both of those are okay, then other end of the ground cable(non-battery end), to make sure there isn't any corrosion there. You can also check the resistance of that cable to make sure you aren't dropping any voltage. Then check the positive cable connection at the starter, to make sure there isn't any corrosion there either and it is a good tight connection. Caution to disconnect the battery while you are doing that, so that you (or your wrench) don't become the short to frame ground. Repetitive clicking can be a relay, which doesn't have enough voltage to stay latched.
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