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Sedans Toyota Camry Older Camry Maintenance and Repair
551 messages, Last post on Nov 08, 2009 at 5:12 PM
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Replying to: lisa323 (Nov 18, 2008 11:01 pm) If the problem is valve stem seals, you don't necessarily have sludge (my car did not). But $2000 seems excessively high. You might want to get a quote from an independent shop that is recommended by friends, relatives, or co-workers. I'd regard the additive as a "band-aid" that won't solve the problem. On the other hand, I don't think blue smoke on startup needs attention right away -- only if your oil consumption increases dramatically or the car fails emission tests (if required in your area). Also, you didn't mention whether you have a 4-cylinder or a V6. The 4 was new for 2002 and doesn't have sludge problems as far as I know. The V6 was carryover and continued to have sludge problems that year.
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Replying to: 210delray (Nov 20, 2008 1:33 pm) I thought it was my stems too and it still might be part of the problem. At higher rpm though, I get oil burn this would point to the pistons and rings. I'm betting its sludge on the rings. I watched the the tail pipe at a constant 2400 RPM's for two minutes during the smog check and it blowing blue smoke. I never notice it when driving. Then I read this topic on the engine forum and discovered these engines have this problem. Now I know. I never thought Toyota's would have this problem. My compression in engine is excellent. I thinking of taking the engine out next year and cleaning the piston ring grooves, and installing new bearings and valve stem seals while I'm at it. Right now the bottle of No Smoke is getting it past smog. 1993 V6 3MZ engine 225k miles. |
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Replying to: jaybird0013 (Nov 22, 2007 8:51 pm) |
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Replying to: jaybird0013 (Nov 22, 2007 8:51 pm) |
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Hi I got 93 Camry 4cyl. run fine but 1 day it just die, I check timingbelt,it still good. only ignition coil and igniter that i cannot check. Anyone have any idea or been thru this similar situation please let me know, thanks |
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We will be replacing the coil as soon as we get it off the distributor. The car is my bro-in-laws and he says when he went to turn it off, he smelled something burning and the car would never start since. It pumps fuel, but I get no spark at the plug. We are replacing the basics: cap/rotor/coil. If that fails to produce a spart, we will be looking at the ignitor module. It appears the best way to get to the underside of the coil to remove the securing screws is to losen the distributor, which then means we've got to set the timing after we install the coil. Any advice on how to better replace the coil would be welcomed. Any advice or links to perform timing on the car would, as well, be welcomed. My preference is to search edmunds, then the internet for a solution rather than posing a question that's already been satisfied, directly or indirectly. Needless to say, I have failed over the last several days to find a proper answer/advice. Thank you!
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Replying to: shadetree18 (Dec 09, 2008 8:01 am) Now you will have to set the timing the old fashioned way. First, get the engine at TDC This can be found by putting the mark on the crankshaft pulley at the TDC mark, to the marks for TDC and advance timing on the cover that is attached under this pulley. Next when you slide the distributor on the rotor should be close to the No. 1 position according to the wire on the cap going to spark plug. You still have all the wires on the cap? On the V6 engine, No1 should be at the 11 o'clock position. Keep the cap off but use the rotor to find align to the no 1 position. If you look inside the engine, the shaft will go into another shaft, these shafts have slight offset on them both. This is so you can only get them together one way.If it doesn't align up, rotate the engine one more turn, 360 degrees around so they align. What this does is set it at TDC again. This is because the engine always turns over two times while the distributor only turns over once.So you have two position at TDC on the engine. One is correct the other is one complete turn in the wrong direction. Trying to figure out which one is correct before installing the distributor is a guess. But again Toyota wont let you put the distributor in in this incorrect position. When you slid the distributor on, the rotor should be at the No1 position when it mates back on to the engine. Another way to find TDC is remove the no 1 spark plug and put a plastic straw in the spark plug hole and turn the engine over by hand. Use a socket attached to your ratchet that fits the crankshaft pulley bolt. Turn it over until the straw stops moving up and just before it starts back down. This is TDC. All these procedure are to get it close to TDC, because on Toyota you can get away with being close and not exact on the timing marks. That because the parts only fit one way, which wont allow you to be off a tooth or degree like other motors. Even the plug wires only go on one way to the correct cylinders. |
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Replying to: rearwheeldrive (Dec 09, 2008 10:47 am) Once the distributor is in you can fine tune the timing. I remove the rotor so I can see the shaft going through the distributor. Near the bottom by the coils or module you replaced is six poles on this shaft. Align the one so it is passing over the module mark. This sends the signal to the distributor to fire the plug. This is as close to TDC you can get. Then turn the shaft slightly ahead so it is past this point . Now your timing is slightly advanced. Ideal timing is 6 degrees advanced. Another way is to set the timing marks is to set the crankshaft pulley to 6 degrees BTDC and then center the pole on the distributor to the module pick up point.WARNING: Always rotate engine in the direction of rotation not backwards . This will avoid the timing chain coming off. |
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Replying to: rearwheeldrive (Dec 09, 2008 10:47 am) I'm really thrilled with the advice on TDC and what not. The four cylinder does denote each plug on the distributor cap. But I never remove plug wires before marking them anyhow. Excellent advice all around!
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