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Sedans Toyota Camry Older Camry Maintenance and Repair
558 messages, Last post on Nov 20, 2009 at 11:36 AM
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| 1999 camry Le with 150K miles. there is $2000 front end body damage. The rest of the car is of average quality. Does not seem to be any mechanical problems. Still runs, uses 1/2 quart of oil per month. New tires, brakes (1 year ago). Water pump etc replaced at 109K. I guess the options are fix or sell for parts. Trying to decide what to do. | |
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Replying to: ghans_12 (Jan 01, 2008 4:39 pm) |
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Any have info on removal and replacement of a 2003 Camry rear bumper cover. Do I get to the bolts thru the trunk or underneath???? Bad deal. I backed in to the mother in law and bent up the right corner and my wife backed in to the principle at our daughters school for a matching dent on the left.
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Replying to: anstine1 (Jan 04, 2008 5:47 pm)
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Replying to: bdyment (Jan 05, 2008 5:49 am)
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Replying to: anstine1 (Jan 06, 2008 5:04 pm) |
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My 2000 Camry wipers started to slow down and then one day stopped working. I checked fuse and it was good. After a period of time (weeks, perhaps a month) I tried the wipers out of the blue and they worked again. Althought they were still slow (no high speed). About a week ago they stopped working again. The fuse is OK. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks.
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Replying to: dbirrell (Jan 07, 2008 7:36 pm) |
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This car is driving me insane. It's a 92 Toyota Camry 4 cyl with 2.2L engine. The battery is brand new and tests fine. The alt also tests fine. The problems started with the battery suddenly just going completely dead and being recharged everything worked fine. Then it started dying while being driven and it would die when you tried to accelerate from a complete stop. It kind of sputtered like it wasn't getting enough fuel but then if you got up to speed no problem. Then I realized the fuses located in the little box attached to the pos bat cable were bad and I replaced the whole component and fuses. I'm not sure how to test the relays in the fuse box... I tested the others with a continuity tester I also tested the fuse outlets with a cont. tester and a weird thing occurred... it made the light ( on the cont) light up but when turning the key over to start it the light went off. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with my problem(s). I'm thinking maybe a diode is bad and that's why the battery is fine when driven and is drained of power when sitting. But now the car wont start... it will turn and turn and nothing. It will kind of start to putter but never starts. This has been the chain of events leading to the death of my girlfriends nightmare vehicle. Any.... any, ideas, thoughts, comments... concerns would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Adam E-Mail: Adam_Michael_00  yahoo.com
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Replying to: a_hamm_87 (Jan 07, 2008 11:38 pm) I don't know what you have for a continuity tester, so I don't know what the results mean. I assume by using a continuity tester on the fuses, you are using an ohmmeter which measures the resistance, and that resistance is now showing a short with no resistance. You say the continuity tester has a light on it. When is the light on that tester supposed to go on, and what does it indicate when it's on? Is it indicating that it has detected a voltage, and if so what is the minimum voltage that it is indicating? Or is the light indicating that there is a minimum resistance (of some level) between two probes of the tester? I'm suspecting that what you are finding with your tester (light goes off when you crank starter), is not really a problem.....but it isn't really clear to me what and how your tester is measuring. The starter puts the maximum load on a battery, so if your starter is running fine then I assume that your battery output is fine, as well as the connection to the main power buss (no corrosion on battery terminals, and you replaced the first fuse box holder and fuses). So with the engine turning via the starter (but not starting up), the next place to look is for fuel delivery, compression in the cylinders, and electrical spark. I'd suggest pulling the plugs and checking their status (how old are they, is the gap still correct, do they need replaced?) . What color are they collectively, and individually? Are the blackened showing too rich condition or buring oil? Are the wet showing flooding/too rich? Is one color different than the others, showing valve/electrical spark/compression problem? What condition are your electrical wires and rotor? If all of those check out fine, or you find differences in the look of the plugs, then consider doing a cylinder compression test to verify that your valves and rings are okay. From a fuel delivery perspective, you need to know that your fuel pump is working and able to deliver fuel. I don't know what diode you are referring to. Diodes are used to convert alternating current to direct current (your battery). There are diodes in the alternator, but you indicated that the alternator checks out okay. Was that comment just a shot in the dark type of statement, or are you suspecting one of the alternator diodes?
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