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Isuzu Trooper Engine and Performance Problems

65 messages,  Last post on Oct 11, 2009 at 5:12 AM

You are in the Isuzu Trooper Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester

What is this discussion about? Land Rover Defender, Isuzu Trooper, Engine, SUV


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#6 of 65
Re: 2001 Trooper Engine Failure [salves] by mt33
Oct 25, 2007 (9:23 pm)
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Replying to: salves (Jun 25, 2007 1:27 pm)

My engine blew 2200 miles after I had an oil change. no warning lights. no engine temp warnings. nothing. my %&*#%#$* trooper had 74000 miles on it. I was the second owner so there was no warranty. i think if there are enough cases of this happening... it seems WAY TOO COMMON already there is a case that it is a defective product and we can get a class action or lawsuit together to compensate us on this piece of crap, cylindar warping, oil burning P.O.S. 3.5 L V6 Isuzu engine.
 
Please let me know if there are more of us out there... no way should an engine blow with that few miles on it after an oil change.
 
thanks,
MT33
#7 of 65
Re: 2001 Trooper Engine Failure [mt33] by wlbrown9
Oct 26, 2007 (5:45 am)
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Replying to: mt33 (Oct 25, 2007 10:23 pm)

How was your oil level before it blew? Did you check the oil during the 2200 miles after the oil change? I am having to add oil to my '00 Trooper between 1200 & 1500 miles which according to info posted before is okay by ISUZU. Perhaps the oil pump failed suddenly. Sorry for your loss.
#8 of 65
Re: 2001 Trooper Engine Failure [wlbrown9] by muttley1
Nov 14, 2007 (7:21 pm)
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Replying to: wlbrown9 (Oct 26, 2007 6:45 am)

Very interesting - I am in the process of buying a 2002 Trooper and when I had the vehicle checked out the oil level was very low. No sign of leaks and pressure gauge was apparently reading fine. Will have to periodically check the oil level as suggested.
Are the powertrain warrantees (about which such a big deal is made) not transferable?
#9 of 65
Re: 2001 Trooper Engine Failure [muttley1] by paisan
Nov 14, 2007 (8:22 pm)
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Replying to: muttley1 (Nov 14, 2007 7:21 pm)

All car manufacturers require you to check your oil every 1k miles and it can be down 1 quart. Very few motors have blown on these vehicles actually and the 3.5 is a good motor if you check the oil.
 
-mike
#10 of 65
Trooper Engine Problems by shady12
Oct 03, 2007 (4:36 pm)
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#11 of 65
92 Trooper engine problem by shady12
Jul 23, 2007 (5:37 am)
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I've had a 92 Trooper, automatic, V6, 4x4, with 155k miles for almost 2 years now. I haven't been able to take it on out of town trips. Before I bought it, I took it to a mechanic that is a friend of the family so I trusted him. He said the only issue was a cracked valve cover gasket.
 
It seems to run fine except for the engine sometimes knocking. And a lot of the times when I come to a stop and am slowing down to a stop light or something, it won't idle smooth, it will kind of do a tiny rev a few times until I'm stopped. If I drive for awhile the check engine light usually comes on, then will turn off if I brake and come almost to a stop. The time I did try to take it on the highway, I made it no more than 20 miles out before there were poofs of black smoke coming out of the exhaust, and all the sudden I couldn't maintain speed even with gas pedal down, and I stopped and it was knocking like crazy, doing the little rev thing, and barely run. So of course I turned around and went home. I've never had a problem with it otherwise as far as stalling out or dying or anything. I think it stalled out once at an intersection within a couple months of buying it, but that's it. Never had an issue with in-town driving.
 
Does this sound like nothing but what that guy told me when I got it, a cracked valve gasket cover? Something else? If you may be able to diagnose it based on what I've set, what sort of cost we talking about for repair? Thanks!
#13 of 65
leaking intake gasket leads to no start hot by jonathan66
Sep 16, 2007 (11:01 am)
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Last week I replaced the intake gaskets on my 1991 Isuzu Trooper. It has the 2.8 liter V-6. Upon reading the instructions with the gasket set it said DO NOT CUT the gaskets. So I removed the pushrods (keeping them in order because the book said there are two different lengths and, I was very maticulous to get them back in the right order...) and upon adjusting the valve lash which, 1 and 1/2 turns past lash is what I did, when I tried to start the engine all it would do was crank and backfire out the exhaust (LOUD, like a shotgun). Upon backing them all off a full turn, the engine started, and it does run okay, now that I've set the timing, but after it is hot and I shut it off, it won't restart... only cranks. If I hold it to the floor (fuel injected - throttle body) like it is flooded, it will start, but chugs a little bit until it gets going. As far as starting cold, it starts right up in the mornings. Is this an issue with the valves not run according to the book? I thought maybe it was a misprint in Chilton's but when I also viewed it in a GM repair manual (for the 2.8 since it is similar) it also states 1 and 1/2 turns past lash. Should I re-do the lash and go 1 and 1/2 turns again and see what happens? I don't want to hurt the engine or valve train since it has over 200k on it and was running good before, just leaking oil out the back of the intake and around the distributor shaft.
#14 of 65
Setting Valves by oldmedic
Oct 03, 2007 (3:36 pm)
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Replying to: jonathan66 (Sep 16, 2007 12:01 pm)

Try the old fashion way. Warm up the engine, remove valve covers and loosen lifters, with the engine running, until you hear tapping, tighten until tapping stops and go a quarter turn tighter. Always worked on the John Deere at home.

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