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Sedans Buick LeSabre Buick LeSabre Heating / Cooling
107 messages, Last post on Dec 04, 2009 at 5:30 PM
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Jun 29, 2009 8:25 am)
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Replying to: odie58ga (Jul 06, 2009 10:58 am) Thank you for letting everyone know what the problem was in your case. That will help others looking for ideas and solutions. |
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Replying to: imidazol97 (May 28, 2009 11:58 am) Now I'm ready to splice around the old connections. I think I have to remove the programmer to get to the harness as shown in your great pictures. I've been warned that I would probably damage the programmer trying to get to the harness without removing the entire programmer. Looking through the glove box hole, the female/male vacuum connection is at the lower left of the programmer. I can see only one screw holding the programmer on. Is this correct? Do I have to dis-connect the battery before disconnecting the dash control connection, before I remove the programmer?
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Replying to: clearlake (Jul 14, 2009 11:02 am) Take off the plastic hush panel above the passenger's feet. Three screws at the front and two little spin on nuts along the back IIRC. Remove the 7 screws for the glovebox. You'll have great access, as long as you don't mind sort of lying across the seat and hanging down onto the floor. The programmer box has a snap on lid on one side and that clamps the plastic connector in its corner. I suspect the box could be unsnapped WITHOUT taking it off. I Know you need to unsnap the white plastic link to the metal rod. It just snaps apart pushing forward or backwards. If you can wait a day I can find a programmer box and show you the snaps. Remember to write down the color tube on the inside of the connect and the color to which it connects on the outside.
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Jul 14, 2009 12:36 pm) Also, remember it's a 99 LeSabre with auto air, if this makes any difference. I have removed the glove box already. What about the electrical disconnection? If I remove the programmer do I disconnect the battery before disconnecting the controller electrical connection? Looking into the glove box hole it's sort of right in front of me. Thanks so much again. ClearLake
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Replying to: clearlake (Jul 14, 2009 5:08 pm) Because of those connectors, if you can remove the cover and clip out the plastic connector for one or all of the little tubes, it would be easier. I may be repeating, but I used 1/8 inch internal gas line. Others have found aquarium line fits over the little small hard plastic vacuum lines. A little moisture on the end of the line may help it slide in easier.
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I'm back. I'm going to try to attach a photo with this reply. Regarding the hush panel, what is the IIRC you mention. I can see the front connectors and spin nuts. Is the second programmer connector screw on the firewall side of the programmer, the bottom or somewhere else? I still am worried about the wiring connected to the passenger side of the programmer, if I actually get to the removal point. Should I disconnect the battery first? How do you attach a jpeg photo? |
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Jul 14, 2009 6:06 pm) I've removed the hush panel and the small connector arm at the bottom of the programmer. I see what I think is the 2nd screw for the programmer at the bottom. I think I would be better off if I could get to the vacuum lines internal to the programmer without removing the programmer itself. I've already removed the female part of the vacuum line connection, the clear plastic piece with the external vacuum lines going to the motors, once. If there was a way to get the male part of the connection out without tearing up the programmer I might could extend the interior vacuum lines out of the programmer and make the splices. There might be a holding clip (black) running around the top and side of the black plate with the male nipples on it. I'm not sure. Breaking this in a removal attempt might not be too critical. This could be sealed pretty well after splicing. As a last resort I could make a manifold for the lines to the motors, figure out the functions of the internal programmer lines and set up a plug and play to manually replace the programmer vacuum functions. I may have to see if a sympathetic parts man would let me look at a replacement programmer to understand it better. You can see I'm getting loopy. Help.
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Replying to: clearlake (Jul 17, 2009 9:06 am) The little actuator motor on top of the HVAC is a clip on snap; pull prong out to pull upward. It's on the picture of the programmer. The plastic connector for the tubes is a slide in. There are grooves around it. link title |
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Jul 17, 2009 10:50 am) I'm now going to get tubing to go around the male component. The hardest part was the removal of the electrical connector on the front of the programmer. I studied the little grey clips/locks/whatevers for a long time until I figured I needed to pry the smaller lock/connector arms out a little with a small screwdriver. There's one of these on both sides of the connector. You know this of course. After much wiggling the connector came loose. The electrical connection on the top of the programmer wasn't hard at all. After the two screws were removed I was able to drop it down and jiggle it out. Now the tubular fix, I hope. I'll send you the results as soon as I recover from the heat. thanks |
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