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Sedans Buick LeSabre Buick LeSabre Heating / Cooling
107 messages, Last post on Dec 04, 2009 at 5:30 PM
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Replying to: 2oldbuicks (May 27, 2009 4:30 pm) Poor vacuum due to cracked plastic reservoir tank or rotting, dried lines that are leaking air into them. The one-way valve before the vacuum goes to the firewall box may be cracked, defective, etc. You can suck air through to see if it's okay. A vacuum line connector sucking shut where the lines in the control (programmer box) under the inside dash connect to the lines going to the actual vacuum motors (actuators) that move the vanes. A dragging, broken, vane or a tear in the diaphragm keeping the motor from pulling with full force. You can check lines at the motor, firewall, and into the car. With motor running do you feel a good sucking pressure on fingertip from the black line leading inside the car tot he programmer? You can take a vacuum line from the motor to each of the actuators under the dash and connect them to see if they move properly. That's what I would do--buy some vacuum line and connect it and probably 8 feet of line would reach inside the car and check the actual motors. Then you can run the engine to get vacuum and switch between the settings and see which motors move to control the air flow. This will isolate that the one line that goes to the motor that moves the vane that closes off the flow to the defroster that makes the air come out the dash isn't working, most likely. Also the flow to the floor is turned off by that motor but I believe there's no vacuum used because that's the default position. The motor for the defroster/dash has an axis of rotation that is horizontal and parallel to the firewall IIRC. Your programmer may have a connector like this which closes off under vacuum.  This person used aquarium air line to make a sheath over the outside of the lines and connected the lines internal to the black programmer box to the lines outside  You're in for some upside down time fiddling under the dash.
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Thanks for your well written reply and pictures.The vacuum up to the programmer seems strong, the rubber connecters to the programmer looks good and so far the individual lines to the actuators look OK. Truthfully, I haven't checked all of them yet though, till I know which actuators are not doing their jobs. My programmer looks a little different but is basically the same thing. I will do as you suggested and make a long line out of some pieces spliced out of an old Ciera I have sitting around. Then as you said, I can find out which actuator does what and go from there and report back.I'm still not sure how to tell if the problem is one or more of the solenoids in the programmer, or one or more of the switches in the dash controller unit. I'll worry about that after I check the actuators, I guess. The A/C is just not very effective bouncing off a hot windshield first, especially in S. Arizona in summer,LOL. Thanks again.
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Replying to: 2oldbuicks (May 28, 2009 7:20 pm) If you can hear any of the vanes in the heater box move when you press different buttons on the control while the motor is idling to provide vacuum or immediately after shutting the motor down while vacuum is holding in the reserve tank, your programmer box is probably working okay. I'd give replacing the connector portion an 80% probability of fixing it. This problem with heat deterioration and age failure for the connector has been known for years. 2001 softened plastic in connector blocking vacuum |
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| I'm looking for the low-side charging port on a 2002 LeSabre anyone know where i can find it? thanks. | |
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98 Lesabre Ltd, 84K miles, automatic dual climate control. A/C and blower motor not working in any setting; controls respond (audible beeps and displays on LED window but no air coming out any vent. I jumped Blower motor and it works, however when I test the voltage; it only provides 0.45 volts (1/2 volt). Also found vacuum leak from canister which I fixed but still not air thru any setting (Floor / Mid / Defrost). Anyone has any ideas...? Corsow 1557
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Replying to: corsow1557 (Jun 14, 2009 5:14 pm) Module click here The picture here shows a resistor pack but the BCM does in the same hole. Location |
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I am new to this forum so if I am in the wrong place please excuse me and help me find the right place. I just bought a 2000 LeSabre Custom with 12000 miles. It has been kept in a garage and everything seems to be like new. The only problem is the A/C does not blow cool air. The compressor seems to work and cycle on and off and the previous owner took it to the dealer shop where refrigerant gas was added about a month ago. The previous owner said it would blow cold air on the drivers side and hot air on the passenger side. My observation is that the passenger side will blow cool air after a while but the driver side blows hot air. When I press the recirc button the indicator light does not come on. Any suggestions?
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Replying to: odie58ga (Jun 29, 2009 5:52 am) It will do that if the freon is low. So the first thing to check is the actual charge of the freon. There are some failures of the supplier parts called actuators that move the vanes in the heater box stack in the middle of the car under the dash. By taking off the driver's side hush panel (the plastic layer above the driver's calves) you can watch these actuators. I'll look for a diagram that shows which of the 3 on that side does which. One closes off the defroster to make the air come out the dash vents. One closes off the heater opening at the bottom. And one closes the air flow over the heater core to add warmth or take it away; all air goes through the AC evaporator. If you have dual air, then another one controls the warmth and cool mix for the passenger side. If those actuators move when you change temp and button choices, then you're okay on that. They are replaceable by a moderate mechanical ability person. They can be bought online at Rockauto.com or gmpartsdirect.com or your dealer. A common symptom of low charge is that the passenger side gets cool air and the driver gets warm air. That's because the freon enters a side of the evaporate where air over it goes to the passenger and the freon is evaporated before any gets to the side of the coil feeding the air to the driver. If you are careful, a can of freon 134a without oil without dye without special sealer from Walmart and a separate gauge they sell that can be switched from can to can will let you charge the system while running in a cool temp of say 70 degrees up to the correct pressure on the gauge per the instructions. I put a box fan in front of my condensor while I did it on my 98 a couple summers ago. If the two metal tubes in and out of the evaporator are both cold about the same temp with the AC running blower on high after a couple of minutes, you may not need a charge. Good luck.
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96 LaSabre had minor front end damage, replaced hood, bumper and AC condenser. Recharged AC system, but now compressor won't cycle off and cooling only comes out defrosters Any suggestions???
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Replying to: nmesllc (Jul 04, 2009 6:07 am) The vacuum to the inside vacuum actuators may not be present. Follow the shiny vacuum line from the upper intake manifold where the big tube goes to the brake booster on the firewall. It goes to the passenger side (take off the cover for the relay center) and meets a T. One line goes to the vacuum reservoir under the right front fender. Lie on the ground to look up to see it. It may be cracked or the tube may be pulled off. Pull off the tube and with the motor running feel the tube there to see if there's vacuum. If you have vacuum there, then go inside and drop the passenger hush panel. You'll see a programmer box (large paperback size) on the corner of the HVAC box. There's a connector in the corner with 6 1/4 inch plastic lines that carry vacuum from the programmer to the various actuators on the HVAC box. To see if you have vacuum there follow the violet line to the passenger side of the car where it's connected to the black line coming from under the hood at that T. Pull them apart--they may be hard since they've been together since 1996. I believe the blue line is the one to the vacuum motor that moves the vane in the dash that stops the air from going out the defroster. A test to do before digging under the dash is to see if your other vacuum motors move when you push the buttons. Run the motor for an instant. Then turn off motor but leave key ON. Press heat and bilevel, etc., on the control. IF you have vacuum stored, you will hear the other motors move for a few cycles until vacuum stored under the fender is depleted. The common problem is no vacuum from under the hood. Since you had body work that's my first guess. Second is that the connector ont he corner of the programmer is soft plastic. The line for the AC sucks shut preventing vacuum from getting to the vane that stops the flow to the defroster; the heater vane closes to shove air to the top then the defroster vane closes to force air out the ash vents. If no vacuum anywhere, you always have defrost as a fail safe which is the way GM designed the system for safety. You can bypass the connector with little pieces of 1/8 inch gasoline rubber line or an aquarium line is the right size to slip over both ends. You cut out one line from inside the programmer box and connect them or cut all the lines. Be sure to write down the color inside the box and the color outside the connector; they are different. My old connector: 
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