Last post on Nov 19, 2013 at 7:01 AM
You are in the Buick LeSabre
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Buick LeSabre, Heating / Cooling
#259 of 278 Re: 1997 Buick LeSabre [dmopar]
Feb 05, 2013 (6:26 pm)
Fuse #5A Auto A/C Cruise 15 amp
Fuse #5D Base A/C 25 A
both in driver side fuse block under dash The number tells you the row and column.
the other thing is the one relay for the heater motor could not be pulling in. It's the one with 4 wires. It has two brown wires for low power for the primary coil and the high power ines are brown and Lt Blue.
The other relay for blower has 5 wires because it's a double contact with the primary wires orange and black and high power purple, DK blue, and RED.
The relay pulls in to provide low power to the blower speed switch otherwise there's no contact. I suspect it pulls in when the ON button is pushed for heater or AC.
I suspect this because you do not say anything about the high blower speed working.
This is the relay center
The relays have a tang on the bottom that snaps over a ridge to hold them in plane. Use a long steak knife type device to hold the tang up and they slide forward and out with enough wiring on them to inspect.
The suspect relay is interchangeable with the horn relay or the AC compressor relay. So switch them. I took the cover off one long ago and found the contact was burned on the relay so it wouldn't make contact--this was on the the compressor relay.
The other part is ground. Ground 202 is beside the parking brake area. There's a bolt screwed into the body the way the picture looks.
#260 of 278 Re: 1997 Buick LeSabre [imidazol97]
Feb 05, 2013 (6:22 pm)
Thank-you for your response I switched the relays today, but was not aware of the fuses under the dash I don't have any thing that tells me what they are for. So your info is very helpful.
#261 of 278 Re: 1997 Buick LeSabre [dmopar]
Feb 05, 2013 (6:27 pm)
Note the correct location of Ground #202. I had the wrong ones.
#262 of 278 98 Lesabre - poor heating
Feb 14, 2013 (10:42 am)
Heater only working partially and then only when temp at max. Removed glove box and observed temp actuator. It did not move when temp changed. Removed the clip and manually moved blender valve over range and it seemed OK. However, the temp actuator when moved manually (switch off) felt a little "ratchety". When turned switch back on and started car, the temp actuator worked ok until I turned temp down. After responding to the "temp down" situation, and then manually turning temp up, the temp actuator did not move again even tho max temp (just cold air coming out). Did this a number of times with same result. Sometimes tho, the system seemed to work OK. Also, when the temp actuator moves on its on to the full hot position, it makes a creaking sound as it gets near the limit.
Do you think I have a bad temp actuator? Have not checked the vaccuum at this point. I had my brother check GM on part, and they responded with 2 versions depending on VIN. My car is automatic A/C. I do not want to buy part from dealer - can get on-line for less $$$. How do I know what actuator to order (if that is the problem)?
For now, I have removed the link on the actuator and wired the blender valve in the heat position so my wife can have heat (she detests a cold car!).
Also is there any way to replace the actuator without removing the entire dash as the FSM indicates?
Thanks for your advice.
#263 of 278 Re: 98 Lesabre - poor heating [warrriorjoe]
Feb 14, 2013 (6:33 pm)
You have the manual control system--it does NOT have the dual temp and digital readout, right? Yours has one actuator on top of the HVAC box?
If I understand what you did, you disconnected the blend door from the electric actuator arm. The blend door moved smoothly. And You wired the blend door in heat position and I assume that gives full normal hot temps when the engine is up to temperature.
My experience is that you should not be able to move the actuator with a gentle force from a finger on the arm. I suspect what you are feeling is the large gear slipping on the axle of the arm. The large white gear cracks and that loosens the grip on the axle. I repaired mine on a dual system by moving the gear so the crack was not in the range of motion and putting superglue between the white gear and shaft (axle). I let it dry overnight. It hasn't failed for a year.
Take out the plastic sound panel under the dash. Take off the 6-7 screws holding the glovebox door on. Then all you have to do (grin) is lie on your back or side and unclip the little set of leads from the actuator to the programmer at the programmer IIRC. The actuator has two screws holding it down. I suggest using fishline or fine string through the socket so it doesn't drop out of reach if it's fumbled. I don't recall the socket size, metric or SAE. This can be replaced without taking the dash face off. Since you don't need the actuator, I suggest taking it out and then finding out what replacement you need...
Try Rockauto.com. You can enter the part number on the actuator and it should give you the updated replacement part number. You can call rockauto/email them if you need more help. I only see two on rockauto--one C67 for manual and CJ2 for auto. Check your trunk tag of options to verify C67. #1571835
The actuator comes apart with a few screws. There are several intermeshed gears and you'll see what I mean. There is a groove on the top with a nub on the axle that limits the travel range.
Good luck on however you choose to attack the problem.
Here's typically what you'll see upon disassembly. There is a lot of gear multiplication, so you should not be able to move the screw gear on the motor by pushing on the external arm... unless you push hard enough to break it. And it probably already has a cracked gear.
#264 of 278 97 Buick AC Control Head Unit bad
Jun 12, 2013 (7:29 am)
I have a 97 Buick LeSabre Limited with dual electronic climate controls. My mechanic tells me the AC Control Head is bad. The unit has a number of names, but it is the in dash display with the push buttons and the digital temperature read-outs that is bad.
My question is, how do I remove the old one, and install a new one? I found a replacement part in a on-line junkyard, but have no idea what steps to take to remove the old and install the new.
#265 of 278 Re: 97 Buick AC Control Head Unit bad [riverrat58]
Jun 19, 2013 (10:54 am)
I have a similar question. A friend came to me and said she has a 97 lesabre and a mechanic told her the blower module is bad. She doesn't have any fan on heat or ac settings. The display lights up and you can go from 60-80degrees. Is this a easy fix and where Is it located?
Jun 19, 2013 (11:06 am)
The removal for the radio/HVAC control is that the plastic wood pieces pull out of the dash with metal pressure fittings. Just give a good pull.
Then the front of the dash comes off with a screw in each of the air vent openings at the bottom after you remove the movable air deflectors. Do not drop the screws down the air openings. This is called the trim panel. My 98 FSM only shows the 4 screws holding it. There are either more screws under or there are press fit friction clips.
I am not sure this is a good set of instructions. I have never had that panel off on my car.
I also think that usually the problem with the controls is the programmer box under the dash on teh corner of the heater box or one of the two electrical fuses.
#267 of 278 Re: 97 Buick AC Control Head Unit bad [goodvibez]
Jun 19, 2013 (11:10 am)
>the blower module is bad
Was that the blower control module? It's the equivalent of the resistors that change speeds in the regular control setup.
the Blower Control Module is where the power cables from the blower motor lead up on top of the heater duct the motor sits in. The module is cooled by the air just like the resistors are.
If it's bad, there is no fan, but everything else works okay.
The relay center above it is held by two screws and can be lifted slightly to give access room to the two screws holding the module in.
Remove the negative battery cable before moving the relay center with its fuses and relays.
#268 of 278 OVERHEATING ON A 2002 LESABRE
Jun 28, 2013 (6:36 am)
My 2002 lesabre has starting overheating on me. The first time my mechanic said it was this tube that runs through the engine block. He said if that is rusted inside it will make it overheat so he changed the external tube and it stayed normal for like two weeks. So then it would only overheat when sitting too long ar a light vut as soon as i drive itll drop a few noches, not completley but out of danger. So, i changed thermostats, hoses, put only coolant and it worked for like a week, temperature stayed below danger but above normal. Now it completley overheats to the point where the car has cut off. Is my problem the waterpump? there is no water leaking. HELP! 