Last post on Nov 19, 2013 at 7:01 AM
You are in the Buick LeSabre
What is this discussion about?
Buick LeSabre, Heating / Cooling
#113 of 278 Climate Control temp issue, no blower
Jan 13, 2010 (7:03 am)
I have a 1993 Buick LeSabre with the automatic heat/ac controls. The outside temp has been reading 199 degrees, and recently it would only blow hot air out of the passenger side, when the temp controller was turned up to 90 degrees. If turned down to 85, it would blow significantly colder air. The drivers side has been cold no matter what. This has been going on for about a month.
This week, the blower has been fading in and out, and I was thinking it was the automatic fan control, though it would do it regardless of fan setting. Then the fan quit altogether. Yesterday it blew faintly for about 2 minutes, then out again.
Wow, bad week for this to happen.
I saw that "sturgis larry" replaced the temperature sensor, and all was good again. My question, was that the external temp sensor, by the grill, or would that have been the rods under the hush panel? Also, do I need a new blower motor, or a sensor?
#114 of 278 Re: Climate Control temp issue, no blower [generic1972]
Jan 13, 2010 (7:09 am)
Could be fan motor going out.
Could be blower control module going out.
Did you try changing the fan speed setting manually?
Did you try hitting gently the fan housing on the firewall under the hood. A sticking, bad bearing will let go and the fan will often start running--a temporary fix until it can be replaced.
The temperature sensor in front of the radiator support can be disconnected and reconnected to see if corrosion on the contacts are causing the problem in the reading. It's a fairly cheap fix.
The blower control modules can be had for 90$ on ebay. First directly connect blower motor to battery with a fuse to be sure the blower motor works right before replacing the module.
Or get a module, temp sensor from a recycling yard.
#115 of 278 Rattling in dash relays, Yellow lites go out on PB,compressor random start
Feb 02, 2010 (4:57 am)
1994 Buick La Sabre.
It has temp cold warm-cold slider. It has PB's for functions (yellow lights in buttons). So I'm saying it is manual; ie no digital readout of setpoint or actual temperture.
It does allot of stuff and it has been doing it for over a year.
1. most of the time system works fine. yellow pb lights respond to pushing them.
2. sometimes all yellow lites go out and system dead.
3.sometimes you can hear relay(s) chatter over on the passeners side
4.somtimes the AC compressor will start on it's own.
5. Fuse looks fine.
Flappers seem fine.
thanks for any help
#116 of 278 Re: Rattling in dash relays, Yellow lites go out on PB,compressor random start [lngfish]
Feb 02, 2010 (6:07 am)
First place I'd go to would be the ground buss on the driver's side under the door sill plastic next to the carpet. The ground buss is wrapped in electrical tape against the bundle of wires that go toward the back of the car.
Does the car have anything else that gives symptoms when the heater control acts up? You might try just hitting on the floor in that area to see if you can affect a corroded contact.
I have a 93 with the heater occasionally losing control--the unit defaulted to AC compressor engaged and cooling fans running for it but the controls didn't change anything. The electric door locks also wouldn't work while this was happening, so my conclusion was that the ground buss was common to both problems. I didn't get to find out because my wife made me trade it for a new bright red one before the problem started happening more often.
Feb 18, 2010 (9:22 am)
I have a 1998 Buick Lesabre Limited with 120k miles. I only get air and heat from the windshield and the floor. Nothing from the vents at all. What is the problem?
#118 of 278 Re: kelite [kelite]
Feb 18, 2010 (10:59 am)
Check the black plastic 1/4 in line for the vacuum to the heater unit from the intake manifold to the passenger side rear and to the front of the car down under the right front fender where there's a vacuum bottle that holds vacuum for when the motor loses vacuum at open throttle.
The black plastic line connects next to the big rubber tube from the brake booster.
Another check is run motor. Turn off but leave key at ON then switch different buttons on the heater control unit. If there is vacuum, you should hear the diaphragms moving vanes between different settings. You should have enough vacuum stored for about 10-15-20 seconds of changing.
Then if you're getting vacuum inside,
I replaced the plastic multiconnector with 1.25 inch pieces of 1/8 inch internal diameter gas line, free from friendly scrap box at NAPA.
Others have used aquarium tubing.
The black nipple layers inside the connector pull closed and block vacuum to the AC diaphragm first, with age and heat.
Take off the under dash thin plastic panel. Take off the glovebox door at its hinge with about 7 screws. Then you have good access for arms and light to the programmer box sitting anagled on the corner of the HVAC box. The programmer is held on with 2 screws, a multiwire connector and on top a little connector that goes to the electric actuator on top.
There is a plastic link at the bottom that comes from the electric actuator inside the programmer and snaps onto a wire rod with grooves on it that sets the throw of the lower vane for the passenger side IIRC. Top electric is for the driver vane temperature blend.
The blue plastic vacuum line goes to the actuator for the AC vane that closes and forces air that would go to defrost to come out the dash vents.
You can check for movement of the 4 diaphragms by taking off the plastic underdash on the driver side--all 4 are on that side. The back of the diaphragm is open and you can feel the diaphragm pull if you have motor running and switch the dash settings to different modes.
Mar 13, 2010 (1:52 pm)
I have a 2003 buick regal ls. It has the digital dash, with separate heating and cooling for the passenger. About a month ago the heating system went haywire, no heat to the drivers side. following the tips posted on this site I began to troubleshoot the problem. !st I flushed the radiator. That seemed to fix the no heat to the drivers side. But the temperature coming out of the passenger side was 5 to 10 degrees cooler than the drivers. Again back to the forums. Decided to try charging the air conditioner. I put 16 ounces of freon in it. Violla the heat coming out of system is the same temp.on both sides. When starting the car I noticed the heat coming out of the vents was 120 degrees (when the engine warmed up) as the cabin warmed the temp coming out of the vents slowly came down to 90 then 85 and pretty much stayed there. I just wanted to post here to thank everyone for their help. I would have been lost without it.
#120 of 278 AC won't work on 2003 La Sabre
Mar 18, 2010 (11:41 am)
Ext temp always reads 38 degrees. Replaced sensor in front of radiator. No help. I'm out of ideas.......
#121 of 278 Blower motor question
May 15, 2010 (7:04 pm)
Whats up imidazol97? I have a problem with my 98 Buick Lesabre. Last Friday my blower just stop working with no warnings all. It was working fine 2hrs prior. I put a brand new blower on it and the new one wouldn't come on. Since my old one was already off, i got it tested Autozone. It spent like a champ. I checked all fuses and all of them lit up. I even check the ones on the passenger side and under the hood, they all tested positive. Later, I got a resistor off a used Buick and hooked it up and the blower still wouldnt work. Next, I got an a/c switch off a used Buick and still nothing. The blower still wouldn't blow. I've taken it 2 several mechanics and they're dumbfounded, they can't find out whats the problem. Im just tired of spending money and my problem isnt being fix. I'm in desperate need of help. Can you help me?
You need to check with a meter to see if you are getting power to the resistor pack with the key ON and the blower motor switch ON. If you had the relay center loose and put in a new resistor, you sound like you are capable.
Since you say it had a resistor instead of a blower control module in the hole, I assume it's the standard AC without the digital readout and without dual controls.
Those have a relay in the relay center that turns on and off the blower circuit.
I believe it's the relay at the left side of the relay center-the passenger side. It's the third from the left (compressor, horn, blower relay).
Most of those relays are the same part number, so the second one which may be cooling fan can be switched to the passenger side to see if the blower motor runs.
Use a knife blade underneath to lift the flat spring catch the snaps over a prong to hold the relay in to pull the relay out. You might try checking for power on the brown wire which should be hot with ON. --from fuse 5D in IP fuse block, 25 A.
the output wire is light blue and goes to the resistor pack.
That relay should be the same part number as the horn and compressor and is a single pole relay.
Another relay is involved and has a Dark blue wire and a Red wire to the two power connections and the out connection is purple and goes the the blower motor.
This should be the relay in #5, the fourth from the passenger side. It is a single pole double throw. It connects either to the output from the resistor pack OR to a 30 amp red lead direct from power for HIGH speed. It's called the high blower relay.
On these relays check the colors I gave you because the book has the circuit diagram mislabled as to which is the blower relay and which is the high/normal speeds relay.
That fuse for the REd wire is in the underhood fuses--the big ones and is 30 amp. It's #3 fuse. I think there's a label on the inside of the relay cover?
There's a third fuse involved and thats' in the IP fuse block, #5A called the Auto AC cruise. It appears to provide power to the heater and AC control on the dash.
The high speed blower relay might not be making contact on their of the two contacts. Normally people have either the low speeds or the high speed working.
But you can use a fused jumper on either of those relays for the input/output power leads and see if the blower starts to run. But best to use backprobing the contacts with a meter grounded to battery negative, to see if you got power where it should be with key ON and blower set for one of the lower speeds.
You might use meter to check that ground on the blower motor is actually grounded to the negative.
This info came from a 98 Factory Service Manual.
#122 of 278 98 buick lesabre a/c blower
May 16, 2010 (12:13 am)
My a/c switch is manual and its not digital. Mine have levels. I tested the resistor with a testor and all three coils tested positive.