Last post on Feb 14, 2013 at 7:33 PM
You are in the Buick LeSabre
What is this discussion about?
Buick LeSabre, Heating / Cooling
#254 of 263 Re: heater prob [fasteddie8]
Oct 09, 2012 (9:58 am)
Are you describing a dual control system or the manual system without the digital readout?
#255 of 263 Re: heater prob [imidazol97]
Oct 10, 2012 (5:25 am)
dual control with digital display.
#256 of 263 2003 Buick Fan Control Module
Nov 17, 2012 (10:20 pm)
I have a 2003 Buick Lesabre Custom and the fan only works after hitting a bump.
Where is the module located, does it need replacing or is there a short?
Any help is appreciated.
#257 of 263 Re: 2003 Buick Fan Control Module [keji63]
Nov 18, 2012 (6:34 am)
fan motor is above passenger's left toes. You can see the round bottom of the motor throught the plastic sound shield under the dash. Tapping this area with your toe will sometimes start the motor again when the key is on.
The motor's brushes may be sticking in the channels, the motor just may not make contact, or the connect from the motor to the hvac box may be corroded from heat damage. You might check the connector after you take off the sound panel.
But 3 screws hold the motor up in place. IT's a medium job because you're lying on your back to reach under and work on it. It's fairly heavy to lift into place and get the 1 inch tube the carries air back to the motor for cooling it in place. But it's doable. Autozone had the replacement motors when I looked for mine.
#258 of 263 1997 Buick LeSabre
Feb 05, 2013 (6:31 pm)
I need your help. My 97 buick lesabre has no heat or ac the panel on the dash is completely dead no lights no response when buttons pushed. It is not climate control. I have been on this forum for several days trying to fix the problem. I have no power to the panel. I ran a by pass wire to the blower switch still no results all relays and fuses check good The controller under the dash with the vacuum lines has a 12 volt power wire and when it is plugged in there is about three to four votes that goes to the back of the panel to several wires. What else can it be? Oh I have tried another switch panel same results
#259 of 263 Re: 1997 Buick LeSabre [dmopar]
Feb 05, 2013 (7:26 pm)
Fuse #5A Auto A/C Cruise 15 amp
Fuse #5D Base A/C 25 A
both in driver side fuse block under dash The number tells you the row and column.
the other thing is the one relay for the heater motor could not be pulling in. It's the one with 4 wires. It has two brown wires for low power for the primary coil and the high power ines are brown and Lt Blue.
The other relay for blower has 5 wires because it's a double contact with the primary wires orange and black and high power purple, DK blue, and RED.
The relay pulls in to provide low power to the blower speed switch otherwise there's no contact. I suspect it pulls in when the ON button is pushed for heater or AC.
I suspect this because you do not say anything about the high blower speed working.
This is the relay center
The relays have a tang on the bottom that snaps over a ridge to hold them in plane. Use a long steak knife type device to hold the tang up and they slide forward and out with enough wiring on them to inspect.
The suspect relay is interchangeable with the horn relay or the AC compressor relay. So switch them. I took the cover off one long ago and found the contact was burned on the relay so it wouldn't make contact--this was on the the compressor relay.
The other part is ground. Ground 202 is beside the parking brake area. There's a bolt screwed into the body the way the picture looks.
#260 of 263 Re: 1997 Buick LeSabre [imidazol97]
Feb 05, 2013 (7:22 pm)
Thank-you for your response I switched the relays today, but was not aware of the fuses under the dash I don't have any thing that tells me what they are for. So your info is very helpful.
#261 of 263 Re: 1997 Buick LeSabre [dmopar]
Feb 05, 2013 (7:27 pm)
Note the correct location of Ground #202. I had the wrong ones.
#262 of 263 98 Lesabre - poor heating
Feb 14, 2013 (11:42 am)
Heater only working partially and then only when temp at max. Removed glove box and observed temp actuator. It did not move when temp changed. Removed the clip and manually moved blender valve over range and it seemed OK. However, the temp actuator when moved manually (switch off) felt a little "ratchety". When turned switch back on and started car, the temp actuator worked ok until I turned temp down. After responding to the "temp down" situation, and then manually turning temp up, the temp actuator did not move again even tho max temp (just cold air coming out). Did this a number of times with same result. Sometimes tho, the system seemed to work OK. Also, when the temp actuator moves on its on to the full hot position, it makes a creaking sound as it gets near the limit.
Do you think I have a bad temp actuator? Have not checked the vaccuum at this point. I had my brother check GM on part, and they responded with 2 versions depending on VIN. My car is automatic A/C. I do not want to buy part from dealer - can get on-line for less $$$. How do I know what actuator to order (if that is the problem)?
For now, I have removed the link on the actuator and wired the blender valve in the heat position so my wife can have heat (she detests a cold car!).
Also is there any way to replace the actuator without removing the entire dash as the FSM indicates?
Thanks for your advice.
#263 of 263 Re: 98 Lesabre - poor heating [warrriorjoe]
Feb 14, 2013 (7:33 pm)
You have the manual control system--it does NOT have the dual temp and digital readout, right? Yours has one actuator on top of the HVAC box?
If I understand what you did, you disconnected the blend door from the electric actuator arm. The blend door moved smoothly. And You wired the blend door in heat position and I assume that gives full normal hot temps when the engine is up to temperature.
My experience is that you should not be able to move the actuator with a gentle force from a finger on the arm. I suspect what you are feeling is the large gear slipping on the axle of the arm. The large white gear cracks and that loosens the grip on the axle. I repaired mine on a dual system by moving the gear so the crack was not in the range of motion and putting superglue between the white gear and shaft (axle). I let it dry overnight. It hasn't failed for a year.
Take out the plastic sound panel under the dash. Take off the 6-7 screws holding the glovebox door on. Then all you have to do (grin) is lie on your back or side and unclip the little set of leads from the actuator to the programmer at the programmer IIRC. The actuator has two screws holding it down. I suggest using fishline or fine string through the socket so it doesn't drop out of reach if it's fumbled. I don't recall the socket size, metric or SAE. This can be replaced without taking the dash face off. Since you don't need the actuator, I suggest taking it out and then finding out what replacement you need...
Try Rockauto.com. You can enter the part number on the actuator and it should give you the updated replacement part number. You can call rockauto/email them if you need more help. I only see two on rockauto--one C67 for manual and CJ2 for auto. Check your trunk tag of options to verify C67. #1571835
The actuator comes apart with a few screws. There are several intermeshed gears and you'll see what I mean. There is a groove on the top with a nub on the axle that limits the travel range.
Good luck on however you choose to attack the problem.
Here's typically what you'll see upon disassembly. There is a lot of gear multiplication, so you should not be able to move the screw gear on the motor by pushing on the external arm... unless you push hard enough to break it. And it probably already has a cracked gear.