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Pickups Ford Ranger Ford Ranger Climate Control
21 messages, Last post on Oct 26, 2009 at 5:58 PM
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I have a 2000 Mazda B2500 truck with a no heat problem - I understand the Mazda is identical to the Ranger. The trouble appears to be the radiator hot water does not flow through the heater core which is located in the cab directly behind the glove box. When I’m driving the temp gauge shows normal – indicating that the thermostat is working ok. Last year when I also had no heat I removed the dash board and replaced the blender actuator. I verified the actuator is working by placing an L shaped Allen wrench into the slot located on the top right of the unit and when I changed the heater control from blue to red I could see the Allen wrench swing back and forth. I disconnected the heater core input and return hoses located on the truck exterior fire wall then ran a low pressure hose - the water ran freely through the core indicating no blockage. When I change the heater control knob towards blue I can feel the air get cooler and less cool (not warm) when the knob is moved when I turn the knob to the red area – so I’m assuming that is all working ok. In tracing the water flow from the radiator to the heater core, I found that the radiator top hose feeds a connector that has an electrical connector on top (see below). Not sure if the electrical connector is for the instrument panel or if this is some sort of switch to allow the heated water to flow to the heater core. The water then continues out of the left side of the connector to another connector unit where 2 hoses go to/from the heater coil and 1 goes to the bottom hose of the radiator. I guess my question is do you agree that I have a water flow problem and what could prevent the water from flowing to the heater core? Greatly appreciate any suggestions, thoughts or recommendations. Can anyone please tell me how the how water flows through the system once the thermostat opens. |
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i have an 85 ford ranger 2.3L, 14,000 miles on new engine, heat was working fine, one day just went to blowing cold, replaced thermostat, water pump, re routed heater core hoses, installed manual temp gauge, truck takes about 30 minutes to for thermostat to open, idiling 190 degrees, driving down road 170 degrees, heater core hoses read 117 degrees at core, 180 degrees all other hoses and heater hoses about half way to heater core. don't know what else to try. can someone help???
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Replying to: 85fordranger (Dec 01, 2007 5:13 pm) Be careful, a garden hose has 30pounds pressure or more, the truck system is set to 15 max then it comes out past the cap. Don't blow up a heater core with too much pressure. Does the truck have a cut-off valve on one of the heater hoses? Is this working?
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Replying to: bolivar (Dec 01, 2007 5:36 pm) |
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The A/C on my 2005 4 cyl., auto, Ranger runs when the selector knob is in the dash vent/ underdash position and also when in the windshield/down position. What's wrong here?
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Replying to: drosnick (Jun 23, 2008 6:29 pm) Ranger AC switches are strange, it that they are a 'push in' to turn on, and 'push in again' to turn off. It doen't indicate this much at all on the controls. The switch twists to control the air output - max, dash, vent, defrost, etc, but you have to push this switch to turn it on or off. Don't feel bad, the first Ranger I test drove I returned and told the deal the AC didn't work. The salesman leaned in, pushed the knob, and said 'Yes it does'. |
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Just quit. Checked and found that when turned on clutch on compressor engages and turns 2-3 times, then releases. After a few seconds cycle repeats. Is there some over/under pressure switch that causes the clutch to release? Any ideas about problem appreciated. Really don't need to go to a repair shop and have parts replaced until they get lucky. It's to close to Christmas. Regards, Norm
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Replying to: ncherry (Dec 23, 2008 10:29 am) Find the leak and recharge. Or, just throw a can into it and see if this fixes it.
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Replying to: bolivar (Dec 24, 2008 1:20 am) |
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