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Pickups Ford Ranger Ford Ranger Stalling/Dying Problems
39 messages, Last post on Dec 03, 2009 at 9:46 PM
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| Apparently some models of the 1998 series do have distributors. When the Ford Dealers (2) were through with working on it they couldn't tell us what the problem was, maybe it was this, maybe it was that, but after over $2,400 worth of work we gave up on Ford. Took it to a little local mechanic who thought he could fix it, but no luck. Now it is with another mechanic who is talking about $800 to replace the distributor, but again no guarnatees. I am ready to chuck the darn thing or just put it on the property and grow flowers in the bed of the truck!!!!!!! | |
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Having read the above, here's my 2 cents worth.... mabey someone can make something out of it: I have a 1989 Ranger with 2.3L fuel injected engine (5s manual) and this problem has cropped up only in the past year. It starts fine and runs fine but occassionally either when cruising for a few miles at 35 mph or after slowing down for a turn and giving it the gas again, the engine will hiccup or cutout (stall) for anywhere from a second or two to nearly a minute before I can start it again. No "check engine" light. I've had the truck checked and the EGR valve assembly was replaced as well as the throttle body overhauled. I'll be taking it back into the shop shortly but after reading the manual and the above threads I'm thinking that the problem is definitely fuel related. Mabey the inertia switch but I'm more inclined to believe the fuel filter or fuel pressure regulator or one of the two fuel pumps (there are two: a high pressure and a low pressure pump). Unfortunately, I don't have the equipment to check this stuff....... I'll keep you guys posted. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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Replying to: mgr1 (May 17, 2009 6:41 pm) I'm giving up, donating it to a charitable org. and taking it off on my taxes for this year. Better luck with yours.
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Replying to: calliam (May 22, 2009 6:50 am) |
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Was driving my 93/94 Ford Ranger P/U Standard Transmission today and it died suddenlly on the highway, the highway was very noisy and could not troubleshoot, so I added gas and tried to start it but it would not run, the starter runs OK, then added fuel to the intake manifold to see if it world start with help but would not. The fuel pump kicks in ok and you can hear it running so I checked for spark and their is not spark. Got abit of a shock to my hand from the spark plug wire after trying to check the sparkplugs but they will not spark. Had it towed home to work on it myself because I cannot afford to fix it in a garage. So I took my electronic tester and checked the fuse panel and all the fuses are ok, checked the diode in the fuse panel and it is OK,then went on to the EEC relay and it is Ok, and even replaced it with new one, and checked the fuel injection relay and it is Ok. So that must make the crankshaft positon sensor?And the coil pack?Is their an ignition control module?Where would it be located? Any help appreciated. THankyou |
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My 3.0 Engine runs fine when the weather is day, but on rainy days it runs really rough. Maybe someone can help me. I just purchase the truck recently from an out of town party, so am unaware of the recent maintenance.
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Replying to: bruce75 (May 26, 2009 11:07 am) |
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Just thought I would put this here for anyone who might find it useful. I have a 2006 Ford Ranger 4 cylinder w/25500 miles, the other day I was driving down the highway and it just shut off, no warning lights just died and would not restart. It would turn over and die instantly. I recalled a few months ago while a friend was driving it, it also stalled and restarted after about 5 mins while sitting at a light. I thought nothing of it really because it had not happened to me. Long story short, $550.00 dollars later, minus the$100.00 tow it was the mass air flow sensor. Of course my warranty expired the month before and I was also told it was caused by a cheap air filter being used at a oil change place, replaced at 18,000 miles. I have the filter and it looks fine to me, but I am not car expert of any means. So maybe my pain in my wallet might help someone else save a few hundred bucks. It looks like it would have been easy enough for me to change but I had no idea where to start. 
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Replying to: anginohio (May 30, 2009 10:47 am) Better possibility is that messing with the filter left a connection open between the air filter and the MAS, letting air and dust in. And, I did not know a bad MAS would suddenly totally kill a motor. I can see making it run badly, and giving bad milage, but kill a motor? Maybe a bad MAS where the little wire/s inside totally broke would shut a car down. This would be a defective MAS, not a filter problem coating the wire with dust. The symptoms you describe sound more like a Crank Position Sensor failure. These will kill a car instantly. And if it is an intermident failure, the car will restart, until the failure becomes complete. Overall, sounds like it could be a BS from a service writer. Look at your receipt, see if they charged for a MAS or Crank Sensor. I do hope that whatever they did keeps you up and running.
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Replying to: bolivar (May 30, 2009 2:39 pm) |
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