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Sedans Pontiac Bonneville Pontiac Bonneville Water Leaks
101 messages, Last post on Nov 21, 2009 at 5:26 PM
You are in the Pontiac Bonneville Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Sep 25, 2008 12:31 pm)
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Replying to: midnightcamaro (Sep 25, 2008 9:36 pm) The companies offer a filter with the frame. Some people buy a Fram; their frame looks different and the filters are available with charcoal layer. I bought an AC at the dealer at the time in 03. It was easier to just buy it there and pay extra rather than screw around trying to find it cheaper somewhere else. On rockauto.com for 2003 I see a Wix filter with frame for $15. I see a fram which looks like it has the frame? for $30. Do website shoppiing on the parts store chains or ask at your local, quality parts store. I did that while shopping for Made in USA brake rotors for rear. The guy smiled, said they keep getting in some that USA on the box, and gave me Raybestos equivalents which were perfect for about the same price the parts store chains charged for noname Chinese. Local parts store deserve respect--ny opinion. |
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In 2005 I inherited my fathers 2001 Bonneville (which he bought brand new and kept in his garage when not driven). It had less than 19000 miles; practically a brand new car! I want to keep the car because it was my dad's but I am sorely disappointed with GM and the problems I've had with this car. At 25,025 miles, the transmission took a dump and cost me over $3,000 to replace it because it was not repairable and I did not transfer the warranty when I inherited the car. Within a couple of months of the transmission replacement I noticed a sour-musty smell in the car and upon investigation found the carpeting on the front and rear passenger side to be soaked with water as well at least an inch of water in the spare tire compartment. I spent over $1,000 to have all of the window and trunk gaskets replaced and it still leaks water. I've had to have the heater/AC blower motor replaced...$400+. I've had to have the window motors to both rear doors replaced, even though they were rarely used... another $400. The paint is coming off on the lower areas between the back doors and the wheel wells. The passenger seat heater quit working, likely due to the water leak causing a short in the electrical system. The rear air suspension stabilizer motor is the new problem that I now have to have repaired. ARE THERE OTHER BONNEVILLE OWNERS THAT HAVE HAD THESE PROBLEMS? IS THERE A RECALL FOR ANY OF THESE PROBLEMS? |
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About 6 mo ago I bought a 2001 bonneville, every since then I have had a terrible vibration in the front end, the tires have been checked and balanced and rotated, the car now has new axles on the front and still it vibrates. It seems not to be as bad if the tires are not low, but when they are as they seem to loose air, then its terrible. Noone seems to be able to solve this issue. Also when it rains and I raise the trunk there is a stream of water that appears to come out of the right side of the trunk lid, maybe from the spoiler? The seals around the trunk seem to be fine and it dont leak there. Any ideas? 
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Replying to: iamclueless (Oct 25, 2008 3:25 pm) Water pouring into trunk - The reflective plastic trim across the rear of the trunk lid exterior catches and holds water. When you elevate the lid, it pours out of the side of the trim and spills into the trunk. Problem: weak design. Solution: 1) Raise lid slowly and allow the trim to drain before opening fully, or 2) Don't open trunk for 24 hours after a rainstorm, or 3) remove the trim piece, inspect it for possible leak areas, seal and replace. Put silicone caulk around the washer-nuts holding trim piece on to trunk lid, on inside of trunk or else they will start leaking in future. (I haven't been ambitious enough to undertake 3 - 1 and 2 work fine for me.) Vibration: I have to force balance my wheels every 4 thousand miles or so. Road Force balancing is superior to ordinary dynamic balancing, and only some tire shops have the equipment. Inquire about Road Force Balance at your tire store. (see Hunter GSP9700 Wheel Vibration Control System at www.gsp9700.com/ ) The original Goodyear Eagles were very bad for vibration. Michelins are proving much better. The suspension is extremely sensitive to balance. Don't accept that "it is within allowed specs." That may be ok for some cars, but just isn't good enough for the Bonneville - it's just too sensitive. You are paying about $20-$25 per wheel for the force balancing. Get the wheel weighted so it is dead calm. This will probably mean deflating and spinning the tire on the rim to find a more suitable relationship (both rim and tire have heavy spots - if they mount the tire so these are opposing, much of the balance problem is already solved before adding weights). They don't like to do this unless you insist. Participate in the process and watch the readout. Don't allow them to use heavy weights to offset mounting orientation problems. After a proper force balance, the car runs smooth as glass (for a few thousand miles). 
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Replying to: kts0347 (Oct 26, 2008 11:23 am) The Pontiacs had different bushings or something because there were different fixes on the TSBs for Bonnevilles than leSabers and ParkAves and SLS's. During the new years for these cars, the tires sent from GM to troubleshoot the vibration had to have 19 or less. But that's still feelable. BUT if you have quality tires such as Michelins ( Symmetrys came on my car and on SLS's at the time in 03) and I have replaced with Harmony tires which have done well, then the last thing is a top quality alignment. Not one at a shop with a guy who does all cars, but take it to a long-standing Buick, Pontiac, or Cadillac dealer where they have someone who was around during 02-03 where they troubleshot this problem. Align front and rear to the exact settings. When my car was new the rear toe was off slightly causing a bit of the vibration at 65--it was slight but I'm used to NO vibration because I have usually ahd Michelin tires and good balancing. I could feel it on a newly blacktopped interstate but only when accelerating slightly on upgrade; it disappeared on the other side on slight downgrade where there was less torque. I thought it would be the fronts varying due to bushing movement due to the torque pulling the car; it was the rear settings. Llike I said, find someone who has been around a while with a tech who knows how to use the RoadForce balancer to the top finest setting. I had my replacement Michelins which were good enough without RoadForce at first done at a branch of local tire store where I bought them and they have been almost perfect. The local store didn't use RoadForce but another one of their stores does. So I went there for the rebalance with RoadForce after a quality problem at the local store. |
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| I know many of you have this same problem and mine just started last week while I was on vacation...came home to a wet driver's side rear floor. Today, it's raining and I noticed that the floor was wet again. Upon a quick investigation, I noticed that water was running down the Driver's front door somewhere and trickling in right at the point that the grooved plate and the trim meet about mid-way across the door jam. Anyone have a good idea to fix this problem? | |
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Replying to: shanemc2 (Apr 14, 2009 9:44 am) I'll email you a pictorial of this to your carspace email. Go to MyCarspace in the upper left corner and click on that. Your MyCarspace page has email capability. |
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Replying to: shanemc2 (Apr 14, 2009 9:44 am) You have a common problem that has been described by Imidazol97 above. Pull the door panel off and under it you will find a polyethelene molded sheet that is designed to keep water that runs into the window channel out of the car. Unfortunately, it is adhered to the sheetmetal with mastic, that over the years ends up releasing, and water runs right past it, and into the car, soaking the carpet. The solution is to re-adhere the polyethelene sheet. There are numerous discussions on this problem, earlier in this particular forum (check entries in the 30's and 40's) and lots of clear directions how to fix it. One suggestion - go to an automotive supply store or tool store (I went to Harbor Freight) and buy a cheap set of trim removal tools. That will really help you get the door panel off. And, pry carefully. If you break any of the clips, you can buy replacements at the Pontiac dealer, but they are about $3 each, and there are nine or ten on each door. Also, needle nose pliers work well to get the grab handle clips off. When you remove the panel, they will remain in the panel. You need to remove them by compressing them and then reinstall them in the plastic holder on the door inner, before reinstalling the door panel. You will end up with a dry car. One last hint - you will be shocked how much water is absorbed in your carpet before you notice it. Hopefully yours won't smell. If it does, that's a bigger job to remove and get it mildew-free. Have a dry day.  Keith
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Replying to: kts0347 (Apr 14, 2009 2:55 pm)
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