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Sedans Honda Accord Honda Accord (2008-) Maintenance and Repair
1142 messages, Last post on Dec 07, 2009 at 10:48 AM
You are in the Honda Accord Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: lapakman (Apr 24, 2009 1:45 pm) Most aftermarket extended warranties from third parties (not the auto companies version) are more difficult to collect on. They are just as much pure profit as paint sealant and fabric protector. And like other business, they can go out of business and leave you with a worthless warranty. Some makes/models come with 'Full' Maintenance or Service that covers wear items and service for the duration of the stated period on the sticker. BUT - watch out for the many brands that say 'Full Scheduled Maintenance', the scheduled in there changes it to just oil changes, and other things in the manual for set mileage/months, etc. If the brakes wore out in the first 12mo/12k mile adjustment period - maybe Honda would pay for it, if caused by a defective brake system component (caliper, etc). Some people in other groups say that they are trying 'ceramic' pads on the rear brakes to increase time between replacements, so you may want to give that a try. Best thing is to find a shop that will do only what is needed. For instance the rotor should not normally need resurfaced - only if grooved or scored. In many cases, as long as the pads are changed before metal on metal contact, only the pads need changed. So the $110 sounds right, about $60 is what people are saying ceramic pads go for (but most likely his price is OEM type pads), plus the labor for straight pad replacement. |
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| My observation is that the Honda pads are softer than most and will wear faster. I replaced front pads on an 05 Accord V6 at 27k miles. I replaced with Honda pads because the braking is excellent and negligible rotor wear. The rear pads will go to 50k or more. FYI: the rear pads are by design all cars thinner than the front pads. Replacing with ceramic won't solve the rear pad wear problem in the 08. Likely it is caliper design but could be other. Honda had a similar problem in 03 also a new model year. Check CR. I DIY my pads and do not turn the rotors unless pull or pulse. Nominal $50 per set. Judgment on when to turn rotors and plan on new around 100k. If your car has aluminum wheels, inspect the pads yourself. Need a flashlight and not parked sunlight. 1/8 inch min. | |
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Replying to: rbbrick (Feb 03, 2009 6:40 am) |
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I own a 2008 Accord Coupe with 11,300 miles on it and my rear brakes went out! I took my car to the dealer and he informed me this is common for the new Accords. I could not believe what the service advisor had said, but after reading a few posts on this website, I guess this is what we Accord owners have to expect. The service advisor indicated the new design on the rear braking system was set up this way to improve the way the car stops. I feel this is a bad design, I contacted American Honda and they took my call as a "complaint" They have received a few calls in regards to the braking system and unless they receive a substantial amount of complaints, nothing will be done to address the problem...so get on the horn with Honda and start complaining about our problem!!! |
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I own a 2008 Accord Sedan and at 20,000 miles I have already had to replace the rear brake pads and resurface the rotors..... cost me a total of 248 bucks. The dealer said that they wear out between 20,000 to 25,000 miles. I think thats bullshit. Something is fishy about that. I've never owned a car to where I had to replace the back brakes so early. Anybody else had this problem???
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Replying to: mr_smith (Apr 28, 2009 7:35 am) |
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hey guys, I heard it 2 times till now that when I use to start my car I hear bit grinding noise at the beginning. I took this to the honda dealer and he said everything is alright and he didn't hear that now. but i am skeptical about that becoz it is not everytime and only some times ( and that too its twice till now). I just want to know from you if you have heard anything similar like this?? please advice.. Thanks, Mahesh
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Replying to: itsmaheshp (Apr 30, 2009 5:13 am) |
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Replying to: itsmaheshp (Apr 30, 2009 5:13 am) If right when starting to crank the engine, definitely a starter motor issue such as the alignment of the gears or the solenoid that engages the starter motor to the flywheel. If low on fuel (makes this louder), and noise happens before cranking, could even be the fuel pump pressurizing the fuel lines - usually goes for a couple second and stops if the engine is not cranked - this noise would seem to come from the back of the car. There is the noise of the solenoids in the transmission when you move the gear lever from one position to another on the automatic (though not nearly as loud or slow at engaging as the one in a 90 dodge car I owned). I've had one or two instances of valve noise right at cold start - something like the old tapping issue on cars that had hydraulic lifters, and it usually has a moan immediately after turning the engine off - I think it is pressure bleeding off the fuel line. Honestly, I get the brush off by the dealer too often for my liking. Mine has a steering wheel shimmy at various highway speeds that they keep throwing tire balances at (on the big bad Hunter road force machine). Its minimized now, but still there (if you know the symptoms before the last balance) - the repair slip says just normal road vibration now, for the third time. Just wait until tire rotation upsets the apple cart - then it will be on my dime, because adjustments and tire items are only under the first 12K. Easily wins the most factory paint flaws award over the last five new cars I have owned. Like others here, I generally like this car, but am starting to hate the dealers inability to fix things that aren't caused by something screamingly obvious. No matter what brand, the best warranty is one that is not needed - because the value of the warranty comes down to the dealers service departments ability.
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Replying to: jmillerjmiller (May 01, 2009 9:56 pm) © 2009 American Honda Motor Co., Inc. – All Rights Reserved ATB 41171-41384 (0904) 1 of 2 CUSTOMER INFORMATION: The information in this bulletin is intended for use only by skilled technicians who have the proper tools, equipment, and training to correctly and safely maintain your vehicle. These procedures should not be attempted by “do-it-yourselfers,” and you should not assume this bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle has the condition described. To determine whether this information applies, contact an authorized Honda automobile dealer. April 11, 2009 09-010 Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED Engine Rattles at Cold Start-Up (Supersedes 09-010, dated February 11, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars) REVISION SUMMARY Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, the Symptom Code has changed. SYMPTOM At cold start-up, the engine rattles loudly for about 2 seconds. PROBABLE CAUSE The VTC (variable timing control) actuator is faulty. VEHICLES AFFECTED 2008 Accord L4 2/4-Door – ALL 2009 Accord L4 2-Door – From VIN 1HGCS1...9A000001 thru 1HGCS1...9A004953 2009 Accord L4 4-Door – From VIN 1HGCP2...9A000001 thru 1HGCP2...9A029528 From VIN JHMCP2...9C000001 thru JHMCP2...9C010096 CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the VTC actuator. PARTS INFORMATION VTC Actuator: P/N 14310-R44-A01, H/C 8665374 VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve O-Ring: P/N 15832-RAA-A01, H/C 7131873 Chain Case O-Ring: P/N 91302-PNA-004, H/C 6753560 REQUIRED MATERIALS Hondabond HT Liquid Silicone Gasket P/N 08718-0004, H/C 8263386 (One tube repairs two vehicles.) WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 110153 Flat Rate Time: 4.0 hours Failed Part: P/N 14310-R44-A01 H/C 8665374 Defect Code: 03214 Symptom Code: 04201 Template ID: 09-010A Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. DIAGNOSIS NOTE: If you’re reading this service bulletin on ISIS and your computer has sound, click on the picture to hear an example of the engine rattle. 1. Allow the oil to drain from the VTC system by not starting the engine for at least 6 hours. 2. Start the cold engine, and immediately listen for a loud rattle: Do you hear a loud rattle that lasts about 2 seconds? Yes - Go to REPAIR |
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