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Honda Accord, Sedan
#1512 of 1615 Exhaust Pipe Crimp 2009 Accord 4dr 4 cyl 5mt
Oct 02, 2011 (9:59 am)
Hi, I was hoping to get some advice. I had a backing up run-in with a curb, which unfortunately was a bit too high to clear my undercarriage and strike just my tires. The only thing struck was the curved part of the exhaust pipe as it exits the muffer going towards the front of the car (for some unlucky reason that seems to hang a tad lower than the muffler proper, which went right over the curb and wasn't damaged by it ... unfortunately though the muffler, exhaust pipe and resonator are a long one-piece affair on this car going all the way up to the catalytic converter, and are not separable parts). The pipe was pinched between the curb and the metal on the other side of the pipe, with the result that the diameter or lumen of the pipe is now significantly constricted (there is no complete blockage though) on both sides, as compared to the normal diameter pipe leading into and out of the constricted section.
In the aftermath, the car still seems to run ok, and it doesn't sound any louder (the pipe wasn't punctured in any way, just compressed), and what appears to be a normal stream of exhaust continues to come out of the muffler. I imagine though that this can't be good for the car - for one thing the pipe will likely be subject to swifter rusting, gas mileage may suffer, and I am worried about long term deleterious effects to the engine or whatever is upstream from the constriction due to increased back pressure of hot gases, so I think I should probably get it fixed and will probably make an appointment for later in the week at the dealer to do so.
Here are my questions: is my only realistic option to purchase a new muffler/exhaust pipe, or is there any way the dealer can somehow restore the pipe to its original size? I can't particularly imagine how that could be achieved expect maybe if the pipe were severed near the constriction and somehow the constricted piece was hammered outward before re-welding. If that is a possibility, would it be any cheaper/better of an option than simply replacing the whole thing?
Assuming that I need to replace the entire muffler/exhaust part, how much should this job cost me? The Honda e-store at the Official Honda Owner-Link site sells this part for $434 list price, and implies that it can be picked up at any dealer - if so, is that around what the dealer will charge me for the part itself if he installs it as well? What about the labor charge for replacement? The replacement doesn't seem like a big deal or a lengthy job to me (but then I'm not a mechanic) - everything seems to be visible once you put the car on a lift, and it would appear to be only a brief matter in swapping the old for the new. All of the hangers, fasteners and whatnots there now were not damaged and I assume can be re-used, so I believe I'm probably just looking at a charge for the one part and the labor to put it in.
I would welcome and appreciate any thoughts/opinions about this predicament. Thanks.
PS> Is there a better option than replacing this with an official Honda part ... such as with an all-stainless steel part? If that's a better option, what might it likely cost? Thanks.
#1513 of 1615 Re: Exhaust Pipe Crimp 2009 Accord 4dr 4 cyl 5mt [jhrost]
Oct 02, 2011 (10:25 am)
Dealerships usually are not well equipped to work on exhaust systems. If you think the system could be repaired, I would try a muffler shop. They have specific equipment to bend/cut/expand and weld pipes. Many of them do custom stainless systems as well as vintage cars where the systems have to be custom made. They may be able to repair whatever damage your car has.
#1514 of 1615 Re: Exhaust Pipe Crimp 2009 Accord 4dr 4 cyl 5mt [jhrost]
Oct 02, 2011 (10:27 am)
Do you really need an original Honda pipe.. I know what I would do, nothing from what you are saying or if it bothered m, go to my local mechanic who I trust and he knows how to use a torch ,too. or go to Meineke or Midas... It may be 434 but I bet it will be another 400 for a HOnda tech to install it.. They are also on commission.
#1515 of 1615 Re: Exhaust Pipe Crimp
Oct 02, 2011 (4:02 pm)
Thanks for the comments. I did take it to Monroe to get an estimate. The guy claimed that they don't yet stock replacement mufflers for this late of a model of Accord, because not enough of the originals have gone bad yet for it to be worthwhile for them to carry such an inventory. I think he said 2007 is the most recent year for which they have Accord replacements. He did offer to get an original Honda part for $790 ($350 buck markup, lol), but said that the labor charge for putting it in would only be $95 and that they could install it in an hour once they had the part. He didn't mention any welding option, though I didn't specifically ask. Those are not bad ideas though about checking for someone who does custom jobs or asking the mechanic who works on my older 95 Accord. I didn't think he specifically did mufflers, but I guess it wouldn't hurt to ask.
#1516 of 1615 Re: Exhaust Pipe Crimp 2009 Accord 4dr 4 cyl 5mt [jhrost]
Oct 03, 2011 (6:26 am)
By crimped, is the pipe actually crunched more than half way flat? If its only a small reduction in diameter, I would likely let it alone. If it does happen to fail early, you may have traded the car by then - or at least aftermarket parts will then be available for the exhaust.
If the damaged area is far enough from the muffler, I don't see why a good independent specialty shop wouldn't be able to just cut out and replace the damaged portion of pipe.
I guess that would require skill with a pipe bender, and either welding or clamping the replacement piece in place (if there is room for clamps at that location).
Most chain shops are into using their own replacement assy's and generic pieces to clamp together a system, versus a true custom exhaust shops work.
My mother did something similar to a dual section of pipe at the front of her 99 v6 accord by sliding forward over a parking stop in the snow. It flattened it some - and it's still on the car now seven or so years after it happened. This is in the section that would be stainless due to the catalytic converters downstream covered by the 80K emission warranty.
The assembly you talk about was replace on hers after six or seven years after developing a hole from corrosion - so unless the current car has a FULL Stainless Steel exhaust system, they aren't going to last forever anyways.
#1517 of 1615 Re: Exhaust Pipe Crimp 2009 Accord 4dr 4 cyl 5mt [jmillerjmiller]
Oct 03, 2011 (7:02 am)
Unfortunately the opening is probably less than half of what it was. It got crunched pretty good. I tend to keep my cars for a long time, so this is something I would have to live with (I bought my 95 Accord new back in October 0f 1994 - the 17 year anniversary is coming up next week .... it's still running great .. in fact in many ways I prefer it to the new Accord).
The specialty shop option sounds good - I just have to find one, as I'm living in a small town. Thanks for the comment.
#1518 of 1615 Re: Exhaust Pipe Crimp 2009 Accord 4dr 4 cyl 5mt [jhrost]
Oct 03, 2011 (12:30 pm)
A 50% reduction, I would expect adds a good bit of back pressure at high rpm's, likely cutting down on the peak horsepower by some amount.
Factory exhaust systems typically have more back pressure than custom performance ones, since most factory systems don't have mandrel type bends in them to start with - so they actually reduce the pipe diameter some at each bend.
From what I can find in other forums, some people looking for a performance cat back system for this 4 cylinder model have mostly gone for a local custom fabricated exhaust system using aftermarket muffler. Typically a garage in the 'speed' or 'performance' shop category.
I hope you can find an serious auto shop that does custom exhaust work, to do what really sounds like a fairly straightforward repair versus the usual remove and replace.
#1519 of 1615 Body Flex Noises (2011 Accord EX V6 6 spd. Coupe)
Oct 10, 2011 (7:46 pm)
When last we left our superhero, we were getting "springy" noises from the rear package shelf area. Dealer tightened something that made that better but not totally fixed.
Now getting increasingly annoying "body flex" sounds from the rear of the car every time I back out of the garage or take a turn that flexes the body at all. Can't tell if its the fenders, the trunk lid, or just a rear window needs to be re-sealed thing, but its drivin' me nuts. Brand new Honda shouldn't sound like a 10 year old bucket of bolts.
Anybody dealt with this, know of any TSB's, or got any info. that might help?
#1520 of 1615 B1 Service at 13K
Nov 30, 2011 (7:40 am)
Hi... I have just done the B1 service on my 2010 Honda Accord with 13K miles. Cost me 89.99 at local dealership.
Dec 10, 2011 (4:21 pm)
Went to charge battery and connected the jumpers incorrectly. Radio and controls gone for navigation display, Dealer suggested a new Amp. Were can I get a used one and what is the part number. I know its up behind the glove box.
Then a week later the heating and air conditions and the controls have failed completely. No heat and no AC. Do you think there are related?
Oh Lord. This is gonna cost big.