Last post on Dec 07, 2013 at 12:41 PM
You are in the Honda Accord
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Honda Accord, Sedan
#1207 of 1618 Re: 2009 Honda Accord power steering/HEPA filter problems [dj9]
Jul 14, 2010 (4:00 am)
I change my own hepa filter. Their fee of $120 stems from mostly labor. The filter costs about $15-30 depending on where in the country you buy it and the manufacturer of it. One of Honda's service techs told me the book calls for $85 installation fee. I don't know anything about the power steering fluid being contaminated. Never heard of that one especially with such few miles. My 08 accord has 60,000 miles.
#1208 of 1618 replace fog light
Jul 16, 2010 (11:11 am)
I have a 2008 Accord EXl and my driver side fog light is cracked. I bought a new one and it was very expensive. The dealer wanted a 150.00 to change it and I said no. They told me you have to take the front bumper off to do this. Has anyone did this before? Is it difficult?
Thanks for the help.
#1210 of 1618 Re: 2009 Honda Accord power steering/HEPA filter problems [dj9]
Jul 18, 2010 (1:33 am)
Did they say what the contamination is? I would tell them that if there is contamination in a 2009 car with 14,500 miles, then there is a failure in the power steering system and that Honda needs to replace the pump, the hoses and the steering rack...under warranty. I'll bet they change their tune pretty fast and that they will tell you that your fluid isn't so bad after all.
$120 for a cabin filter is way out of line. If they inspected it, that means they had to remove it, right? How much time would they really spend to inspect an item that may or may not get the OK to replace? It may take all of 60 seconds to remove the filter. Buy one and do it yourself, it's WAY easy. Should take about as much time as I needed to type this out! $100 for 3 minutes of work is a really good deal...for them!
Check out this website for instructions:
You might want to think about finding another Dealer to service your car. These guys are going to try to bleed you dry.
#1211 of 1618 Re: 2009 Honda Accord power steering/HEPA filter problems [elroy5]
Jul 18, 2010 (11:58 am)
If the power steering fluid was actually contaminated, (which I doubt it is), the whole power steering system would need to be flushed. Only doing part of it isn't enough. Kind of like just changing the fluid and filter on a automatic tranny. If you don't flush it, there will be all the dirty tranny fluid from the torque converter still in system. I had the power steering flushed in my old Camry last year for about $110 and that was with synthetic BG fluid. Top notch quality products. I had the stealership service my 5 speed MT in my 08 Accord with Honda MTF when it started grinding going into third and popping out of gear. Took care of it for less than 5k miles. I then had synthetic BG put in and viola, problem solved. Anyway, I would get a second opinion on the power steering fluid. Perhaps a different Honda dealer or a independent shop that a friend or family member recommends. If it's contaminated they should be able to show you. I think the fluid would have a different color or smell from fresh fluid, wouldn't it? Damn stealerships take advantage of too many trusting people don't they?
#1212 of 1618 Replaced Front and Rear Brakes before 24K miles
Jul 18, 2010 (3:17 pm)
2008 Accord EX-L 4cyl. Just had both Front and Rear brakes replaced within a few thousand miles of each other. Front brakes actually went first around 20K miles and had to have the rotors machined. Then just had rear brakes at 24K miles and again had to have rotors machined. Over $600 total including a brake flush that they talked me into saying it was needed.
It's bad enough that the car has terrible gas mileage (18 city/24 highway/19 mixed).
It's worse that the car suffers from rattles and squeaks from the center console that every little bump jars and rattles the center console (of which they say they cannot tighten or fix any more than what has been done).
It's much worse that the car has a terrible suspension system where the back end bottoms out when going over a speed bump or every rut in the road just pounds the car into submission (further complicating all the rattles in the dash and center console).
Now, it seems like either there are problems with the tires or alignment when the car is pulling badly to the right no matter what lane I'm in, and the steering wheel vibrates terribly at any speed over 30mph. (Probably meaning new tires and an alignment at 24K miles!).
I've lived and breathed Honda over the years. I've owned 2 Civics, 3 Accords, 2 Odysseys, a Ridgeline and a CRV. This Accord is the worst car I've ever owned and that includes a Ford Windstar and Mecury Tracer.
I just test drove a 2010 Civic EX sedan over the weekend and was more impressed with it than my Accord. I took the Civic through the same streets that I normally drive and the Civic had more pickup, was more enthusiastic to drive, absorbed bumps better, had quieter tires, and didn't have any rattles or squeaks. All in all, it was a marked improvement.
Rather than face spending $800-$1000 on new tires and an alignment on a car that I can no longer stand, it's time to just be done with this insanity.
I will never buy another 1st year model again, ever! And from what I've been reading, it just seems that this generation Accord is an overall dud in general.
The only positive thing I can say about my Accord is that it appears to be able to fetch a decent resale value!! So with that I will say goodbye to my Accord and hello to a 2010 Civic. I'll miss my Automatic Climate Control and XM Radio, but will enjoy the iPOD USB controls and overall general driving improvements (and hopefully gas mileage improvements) that the Civic will offer.
Goodbye 2008 Accord, I wish I had never knew thee............
#1213 of 1618 Re: Replaced Front and Rear Brakes before 24K miles [rrbhokies]
Jul 18, 2010 (4:05 pm)
Wow, I'm glad my experience has been a little better. My LX has about 33K miles so far on all the brakes with plenty of pad to spare. As far as gas mileage goes, not sure about straight city, but highway we just got back from a Colorado vacation and got 32-33+ mpg running 75-80. In mixed about 28. Only squeak problems have been from the glove box but have been resolved. Had all four inner door seals replaced due to pulling loose at corners. 5 speed manual ground and popped out of gear. Fixed by synthetic gear lube. No vibrations or pulling, luckily. However, the Dunlops are getting louder as they wear. On some roads it is horribly loud. I've had issues with finding a comfortable position in both front seats. Even in spite of these issues we still really like our LX. I think the manual trans. makes it a blast to drive. The V-tec loves to wind up. I had a blast driving it up Big Thompson Canyon from Loveland to Estes Park. Manual + curves = fun . I gotta say the Civic is a nice car. I almost bought one instead of the Accord, but needed more room for my family. Good luck with your next car!
#1214 of 1618 Re: 2009 Honda Accord power steering/HEPA filter problems [icyou812]
Jul 18, 2010 (5:28 pm)
Kind of like just changing the fluid and filter on a automatic tranny. If you don't flush it, there will be all the dirty tranny fluid from the torque converter still in system.
If you know anything at all, about Honda automatic transmissions, you would know power flushing them is a BIG NO NO. An experienced Honda tech told me that replacing the steering fluid in the reseviour would help keep it fresh, and be much easier to do than the flush method in the Honda/Helm manual. There is no real maintenance interval for flushing the power steering fluid, I just like to keep it as fresh as possible. If the fluid was really bad, in so few miles, I think there is more wrong than a fluid change would fix. The common problem with the Accord's power steering, is a leak on the pump inlet pipe (o-ring), where the pump sucks in air and dirt into the system. This will also cause a moaning/ wining sound when the engine is cold.
#1215 of 1618 Front bumper license plate bracket
Jul 18, 2010 (5:39 pm)
#1216 of 1618 Front bumper license plate bracket
Jul 18, 2010 (5:43 pm)
Dealer installed the bracket but pewter plate's weight seems too much for the stock bottom mounting bolts. It is showing a progressively larger gap at the top of the bracket. I wouldn't mind putting two small holes through the top of the bracket but is there an easy way to get the bumper cover loose from top or bottom? There probably is foam or steel behind the cover. Without pulling the cover I could put a couple stainless steel sheet metal screws in but don't know what is back there. Thanks for any help.