Last post on Dec 02, 2013 at 4:56 PM
You are in the Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable
What is this discussion about?
Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable, Fuel System, Sedan
#167 of 177 Re: 2000 Ford Taurus 24 valve DOHC [drcarp3]
Jul 10, 2013 (5:57 am)
i don't know its hard to guess because it could be other stuff wrong with it like old worn out spark plugs or coil block..with mine it started very slow i would start it didn't matter if it would sit or not..it would start but than it acted like it was running out of gas and die...turn off the key and back on a few time than it would stay running..finally the POS died for good and replaced the fuel pump never had a problem since..have someone turn on the key but dont run the car engine and listen for the pump to prime after it sits over night on your first try for the day. i bought my pump on ebay..autozone was $200 with the plastic housing ebay was under $60 just the pump with strainers...same brand autozone uses.. Airtex
#168 of 177 Re: 2000 Ford Taurus 24 valve DOHC [gsc01972]
Jul 10, 2013 (7:02 am)
Yeah, I think I'm looking at a fuel pump change.
#169 of 177 Re: 2000 Ford Taurus 24 valve DOHC [drcarp3]
Jul 10, 2013 (11:29 pm)
Hey drcarp3- Rather than tossing new costly parts on it, I'd rather suggest having a qualified auto tech to look into this one in a shop (make a precise and correct diagnosis). Blind guesses are highly inaccurate and disappointing thing... Hard-to-start-overnight symptom can be almost anything, e.g. a parasitic drain on your battery. Internal pump pressure leak (if any) will be a straightforward check for the good tech. You can try to build up the pressure before you start by turning the key on and off (hear that humming buzz from the pump every time) several times- without actually cranking the engine, and then see if it makes the difference when you ignite(start) the engine. Cheers
#170 of 177 Re: 2000 Ford Taurus 24 valve DOHC [arctic_taurus]
Jul 11, 2013 (7:19 am)
hey arctic_taurus.. In a perfect world everyone would take there cars to a mechanic..But since we are in the real world not everyone has money to spend on expensive shop rates..plus with the age of information called the internet..most car problems can be resolved with a little reading and elbow grease..if i would have taken my car for that fuel pump replacement labor at the cheap shop would've of been $135 plus there part prices..Screw that !! i Spend under $60 for parts plus 2.5 hr in elbow grease.. I win!! For people that are NOT mechanically inclined..yes please take your car to a shop it's better than hurting yourself..But the DIY fight the good fight and keep labor cost to ZERO!
#171 of 177 Re: 2000 Ford Taurus 24 valve DOHC [arctic_taurus]
Jul 11, 2013 (8:11 am)
I really not throwing parts at it. I've been dealing with this issue for a long time (years). I believe this fuel pump has an anti drain back/check valve feature that is not functioning properly. I've just been putting off biting the bullet and dropping the tank. I've done all the easy stuff.
#172 of 177 Re: 2000 Ford Taurus 24 valve DOHC [gsc01972]
Jul 11, 2013 (11:45 am)
...most car problems can be resolved with a little reading and elbow grease..
hi gsc, I have nothing against DIY approach; and only happy to know when someone was lucky enough with guessing a part and then lucky again when installing replacement correctly, the first time. But in the same real world you have mentioned, this is funny how rarely really it works to just guess right the first time; in fact, most of car's problems would be unique and guesses wrong, ending up with higher repair cost in the end.
Yes, the check valves in pumps designed to hold pressure on the fuel rail and lines could be leaking; but also pumps' electric motors can lock up after running and then sitting; and if the hose connecting the pump to the fuel sender is leaking, replacing only the pump (not the whole assembly) won't help, and that needs another check. We don't even know if the simple cycling the key on/off helped dcarp3 make any difference. So far, it could as well be the battery (even if recently bought, its output has to be checked), or say an engine timing problem, or a throttle plate sticking in bore overnight due to varnish build-up over this car's years from PCV gasses; or even leaking injectors flooding the air-fuel mixture (hold your gas foot to the floor to interrupt injection command and let the mixture lean out until the engine manages to start, if so). Also how about wiring harness issues, loose ignition connectors or oxidised pins problems, or automatic shut-off powered from PCM or the notorious antitheft systems from aftermarket..
Sure thing- if we did know how to diagnose (before buying a new pump) that the pump check valve drcarp mentioned is faulty, that would be great. Alas, we don't know. The techs have tools and training to do it without dropping the tank -- surely you do not to have to pay for the new part and the replacement as yet; and diagnosing it could cost even less than an hourly labor rate (~$80 in my area).. Worse yet, buying a cheap pump would very likely require another replacement in less than a year. Judging by standard replacement pump's pricing from for example RockAuto -- http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1362811,parttype,6256 -- this Taurus'es new pump assembly would cost over $130. So maybe it's worth making sure diagnosis is correct before buying new costly parts..
#173 of 177 Re: 2002 taurus runs rough when hot [sarniajack]
Aug 28, 2013 (7:13 pm)
I have a 2002 Ford Taurus SEL Wagon and started to experience the same problem. The RPM will drop and raise up when its warm but operate fine when cold. The problem is not fuel related. It is the IAC (Idle Air Control) which is located on top of the throttle body. The IAC is very easy to change and almost anyone can do it and it is extremely easy to access. The IAC is located near the back of engine in the center. It has a connector which has to be disconnected and it is held in place by 2 bolts (8 mm) I believe. Under the 2 bolts and it comes right off. The IAC consists of 2 components (1) sensors and (2) solenoid. The sensors in itself are generally not the culprit but a stick solenoid. The IAC allows air to pass through when there is a load placed. When your engine is cold it doesn't require much but when your engine heats up the cars cooling fan kicks in requiring power, the alternator provides power to the battery etc... the IAC allows more air to pass and regulates the rpm to compensate. While your car has filters it doesn't capture everything and through the passage of time the IAC gets carbon, dirt and other stick air born particles causing the sensors not to perform within specifications and the solenoid starts to get stuck. Yes you can clean it usually a soak in mild carb cleaner (over night) will do it but honestly for about $50-75 depending where you shop you can pick up a new one and as I said it is something anyone can do (there are plenty of video's on you tube to show you).
#174 of 177 Fuel Pump will not turn on
Oct 26, 2013 (2:41 pm)
I have 1997 Taurus GL Wagon Vin “U” 3.0 It died while I was driving, let it sit 45 min or so, started up and worked good for a week and then died again. Now it will not start. It died like it was running out of gas, but I have ½ to ¾ tank. I had replaced the fuel pump about a month ago with a Delphi OEM pump. Wiring looks good. Switched relays around, didn’t matter. Dropped tank and all seems fine. I hotwired the pump and the pump works. The car started up after hotwiring, ran fine until it used the gas in the line up. So it seems the gas is getting to the engine fine and returning to the tank fine. I have spark as well. I am really stumped as to why the fuel pump will not turn on. Any ideas? TY!
#175 of 177 Re: 2002 Mercury Sable nagging fuel pump problem [gsc01972]
Nov 19, 2013 (12:19 am)
I have a 2000 Sable. I just recently started doing the same thing. Except mine does it whenever. First thing in the morning, after driving it, while I'm driving. At first, I believed it was the fuel pump. I could not hear it running. I pulled the fuse under the hood, then put it back. Car started right up. Bought a new fuse, had no problems for about 2 weeks. Now, it's acting up again. Pulled the fuse, put it back. Work just fine. That is the only fuse I am having problems with. No problems with the rest of them. Any ideas?
#176 of 177 Re: 2001 Mercury Sable 3.0 "U" code Fuel press. prob. [wrenched]
Nov 29, 2013 (1:48 pm)
Saw your posting I see that was awhile back, did you ever find out the problem. I have been working on a 2001 Sable Wagon, did head gaskets, had to go back in a second time because the customer wouldn't pay for new timing chains and tensioners, but when he heard how it ran, he paid me to do that. Now, I have no power to the fuel pump and can't figure out why. I have checked fuses, relays, grounds, power, etc. I'm hoping you will see this post and maybe might have a suggestion. I have fixed a lot of difficult problems, but this one is stumping me....